stink koat
Pilgrim
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Is the NEW TRU-OIL the same as the older stuff? I bought a new bottle and it smells totally different!
TRUE-OIL
- Thread starter stink koat
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No idea but the old Tru-oil was identical to MinWax Antique oil except you can buy a quart can of the Minwax at Ace Hardware for a lot less than one of those tiny bottles of Tru-oil that dries up a few weeks after you open it.
Sidney Smith
58 Cal.
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I think that's by design. Makes you buy another bottle with your next build. Planned return of customer base. Most people are unaware of the min wax simarities. I had no idea.
Dried up Tru-oil is a problem. I have taken to store the bottle upside-down so the film forms on the bottom.
Prairieofthedog
40 Cal.
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They still make the original Tru-Oil. The new stuff is called Genuine Tru-Oil and it is different.It has a satin finish,and the dry times are a lot longer.It does smell different and I don't like it.Longer dry times are a pain,and if I want a Satin finish I just use grey 3M scuff pads to dull the finish.
stink koat????
I use a product called Tried and True Oil Varnish emulsified with Bees Wax. It ain't cheap, but it works like a bandit. It's all Jim Kibler uses. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. Just my $0.02 buddy.
God bless:
Two Feathers
I use a product called Tried and True Oil Varnish emulsified with Bees Wax. It ain't cheap, but it works like a bandit. It's all Jim Kibler uses. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. Just my $0.02 buddy.
God bless:
Two Feathers
Do this to your Tru-oil bottle seal, store it capped and upside down and it won't gum up for a very long time, up to a year. You can get all the finish you need to wipe on your stock out of that pin hole.
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Also use the pin hole stored upside down method with very good long shelf life results
I store in in the freezer, in a sealed plastic bag.
I like the pin hole idea, and will start doing that. Thanks!
I like the pin hole idea, and will start doing that. Thanks!
Howdy folks:
For years I was a fan of Tru Oil and the more recently boiled Linseed Oil, BUT TruOil is just Boiled Linseed oil with a few additives. Here's a video that changed my mind about BLO, and TruOil.
I hope this is of some benefit to members/readers? I no longer used BLO OR TruOil. I now use Tried and True oil varnish. It's a polymerized linseed oil and bees wax finish. I know it's linsed oil, but it NOT bolied Linseed oil! This stuff just seems to work better and it's an original 19th. century finish. This video states the reasons why I stopped using BLO and TruOil. I have found this guy's thoughts and findings to be almost exactly the same as mine? The video is 15 minutes long and some of it may not pertain to your situation, but listen to (and watch) the parts about BLO in particular.
Here again...these are just one guys findings. They may not agree with yours?
God bless:
Two Feathers
For years I was a fan of Tru Oil and the more recently boiled Linseed Oil, BUT TruOil is just Boiled Linseed oil with a few additives. Here's a video that changed my mind about BLO, and TruOil.
I hope this is of some benefit to members/readers? I no longer used BLO OR TruOil. I now use Tried and True oil varnish. It's a polymerized linseed oil and bees wax finish. I know it's linsed oil, but it NOT bolied Linseed oil! This stuff just seems to work better and it's an original 19th. century finish. This video states the reasons why I stopped using BLO and TruOil. I have found this guy's thoughts and findings to be almost exactly the same as mine? The video is 15 minutes long and some of it may not pertain to your situation, but listen to (and watch) the parts about BLO in particular.
Here again...these are just one guys findings. They may not agree with yours?
God bless:
Two Feathers
I have really taken a liking to TOTW Original Oil. While it has a thin consistency, and takes multiple coats, it’s very easy to work with, dries quickly, and
produces a beautiful oiled appearance that accentuates the color tone and figure.
produces a beautiful oiled appearance that accentuates the color tone and figure.
Art:
I had not heard of it, but I'll certainly give it a look. When you say "Oiled APPEARANCE." Does it just look oiled or does it actually provide an oil finish? Big different in the longevity department? Just curious, thanks.
God bless:
Two Feathers
I had not heard of it, but I'll certainly give it a look. When you say "Oiled APPEARANCE." Does it just look oiled or does it actually provide an oil finish? Big different in the longevity department? Just curious, thanks.
God bless:
Two Feathers
I use Minwax tung oil. It's a wiping oil, a blend of tung oil and varnish that cures relatively rapidly and is considered one of the best wood sealants/protective applications by many in all areas of woodwork. Same with Fornby's, different company, same product.
It is an oil finish that appears to have been dosed with a dryer/hardener.
tdoyka
32 Cal.
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i use linspeed oil(many times), 4f steel wool(many times) and followed up with pumice and rottenstone powder and to protect the "mirror finish" i use johnson paste wax.
https://www.lin-speed.com/
https://www.lin-speed.com/
For what it's worth, I have a German single shot pistol from the early 1800s. The stock was dried out, and I didn't want it to crack, but I did not want to apply some finish that would detract from the gun's originality. I live close to Track of the Wolf, so ne day I brought the pistol in there to get their advice. They said I could not go wrong by applying a coat of Linspeed oil.
Howdy:
I tried Linspeed oil in the 70's didn't care for the results or workability. Too sticky for my taste.
Thank you however.
God bless:
Two Feathers
I tried Linspeed oil in the 70's didn't care for the results or workability. Too sticky for my taste.
Thank you however.
God bless:
Two Feathers
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I too used Linspeed oil in the 60's and I liked it quite a bit. Then it became hard to find and I think the formula changed and I don't use it anymore. I build mountain dulcimers also and have switched to tung oil to get a gloss finish that is easily repaired. I kind of enjoy the hand work associated with achieving an attractive easily repaired finish. Lots of folks just want a quick, easy method.
YMMV
jim
YMMV
jim
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I used linseed oil in the 60s as well. Took forever to dry. I've been using boiled linseed oil for 20-plus years and seems to work well. Nice finish. I've tried tung oil on my canoe paddles, but leary of applying it over a years-old linseed oil finish. Any thoughts on this?
tdoyka
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linspeed oil is still the same, my dad started using it in the early '80s. you can buy it from ebay, amazon or gb product. s. i used to use true oil but the formula changed. right now i have drying on the rack is a 98 mauser wolverine stock made by richards microfit stock. i started sanding her with 240 grit and i went to 320 grit and finally 400 grit. i think she is on 12 coats of lin speed oil, 15 coats is the magic number. i like lin speed oil because the grain will either darken or lighten for years after you are done with it.
i'm going do my youngest son's rifle. it will be a 93 mauser in wolverine stock and it will have a 22-24" douglas barrel in 7x57. my gunsmith has done the action(d&t, dayton trigger set, bent the bolt handle, put on scope bases) and i will sand the stock this winter. i have another 93 mauser, 2two 1898 spr armory actions, 95 mauser action, 96 mauser(94 mauser?) and a couple of more actions that i can't remember. i have TIME but not the money to do it. i had a stroke about 8 years ago and only about 20% good on my right side.(speech is only 20% good) before my stroke, i'd do about a good bit of gunsmithing, d&t, put in new triggers, bend the bolt handle......about the only thing i couldn't do was the lathe. i didn't have one. i was taught by gunsmith(RIP) who came to be my friend. i was a shade tree gunsmith, good enuff for me, but not good enuff for a true gunsmith. recently, i gave my gunsmith a rem m14 in 30 rem to clean and fix up the butt stock. i was going to disassemble m14 but i decided since i only have use of my good arm, it would be unwise to disassemble the bolt and the pump action.
i let him do it
i'm going do my youngest son's rifle. it will be a 93 mauser in wolverine stock and it will have a 22-24" douglas barrel in 7x57. my gunsmith has done the action(d&t, dayton trigger set, bent the bolt handle, put on scope bases) and i will sand the stock this winter. i have another 93 mauser, 2two 1898 spr armory actions, 95 mauser action, 96 mauser(94 mauser?) and a couple of more actions that i can't remember. i have TIME but not the money to do it. i had a stroke about 8 years ago and only about 20% good on my right side.(speech is only 20% good) before my stroke, i'd do about a good bit of gunsmithing, d&t, put in new triggers, bend the bolt handle......about the only thing i couldn't do was the lathe. i didn't have one. i was taught by gunsmith(RIP) who came to be my friend. i was a shade tree gunsmith, good enuff for me, but not good enuff for a true gunsmith. recently, i gave my gunsmith a rem m14 in 30 rem to clean and fix up the butt stock. i was going to disassemble m14 but i decided since i only have use of my good arm, it would be unwise to disassemble the bolt and the pump action.
i let him do it
