Uneven browning

[abstange]

Well I have been working on my first build now for about a week and I feel it is going decently well. I started browning the barrel on Sunday morning using LMF browning solution. It took a couple coats to really start showing up, but now that I have four or five coats on it is starting to look better. The only problem is that it is streaky and uneven in spots. Is there an easy way to level this out or do I need to strip it and start over being more careful with the applications?

 

[Zonie]

Don't strip it yet.

Did you apply the LMF with overlapping coats to make sure you didn't miss an area. If you did, that might be the problem.
Multiple/overlapping coats sometimes causes copper to come out of the solution and plate the surface. If this has happened, then stripping the copper off will be needed.

If you applied it right and you did not make overlapping coats, don't strip it. Just apply more solution and try again.

I suspect the barrel isn't getting enough humidity.
LMF works best when the humidity is over 80 percent.

As others have said, a good steamy bathroom after the hot water has been run thru a shower is about right.
If less humidity than that is used the LMF won't form the rust needed to fully cover the surface.

 

[abstange]

It's not really a copper color so much as just spots that are quite a bit darker than the rest. Is this something that will even out as it gets darker?

 

[crockett]

How long are you waiting between coats? When you apply the solution LESS IS MORE. Give it a wipe and that's it.
WHAT HAPPENS IF I GAVE IT A WIPE AND MISSED A SPOT?
Don't go over it again, multiple wipes are what creates that copper color and once that shows up it is a long process to get rust- you are better off going back to the white and starting over. If you gave a barrel flat a wipe and missed some of the metal- GET IT NEXT TIME.
The other thing is carding. Lightly wash with a terry cloth towel but don't use steel woool, etc- you be taking off the rust you are trying to build up.
So... Quick wipe, wait maybe 4-6 hours, hot water and terry cloth to take any possible loose rust, let dry, repeat.
The longer you leave the solution on (8 hours, etc) the rougher but thicker the rust. Usually after 4-6 coats the gun should be looking pretty good.
Finally, after you have done about as good as you can, adding linseed oil or beeswax will sort of blend the colors. Test on the bottom of the barrel (that will be covered by the stock) to see whether you prefer beeswax or linseed oil. and, this is done after neutralizing the barrel after the final acid. Use baking soda.

 

[abstange]

Thanks Crockett. I've been only doing one coat a day with me working. I've been leaving it on for about 3 hours, then carding with some old denim, then rinsing with hot water and allowing it to sit overnight and the next day until I can get to it again. It does appear to look quite a bit better after it has sat for awhile between the coats. I will keep in mind the less is more mantra. I was mostly trying to get everything covered and I did overlap at times..

 

[silly goose]

I found the lmf brown to be quite easy to work with. Take your time. I actually had to coax it to work by leaving it in the bathroom at shower time. That was the only time I could get rust to form. Humidity was too low otherwise. That being said, I liked the pace. It didn't feel to time sensitive for me. Like others have said, wipe it down as evenly as possible. If you miss a bit, get it the next time. I boiled mine to get the blue/black color. I don't think you have to kill yourself carding it off either, I just used cotton t-shirts. I also didn't want a high shine finish. My next build I want to go for a nice chocolate brown. Good luck and take your time.

 

[Zonie]

I've even heard a rumor that one of us might even climb in and take a shower.

Totally disgusting idea but, for those who tried it and survived, my :hatsoff: to you. :grin:

 

[silly goose]

Zonie, I had to rely on the rest of the family. If the barrel had to wait for me to take a shower it may take months to complete. :grin:

 

[abstange]

The brown is starting to even out now. I'm assuming it will be fairly even by the time I get it as dark as I want. I haven't had any issues with humidity that I can tell. I put a warm air humidifier in a small room in my basement and it appears to be working well.

 

[crockett]

I actually made a box out of plywood as I do browning quite a bit. It has a lightbulb for heat and a "towel rack" inwhich I hang a damp towel. You might think about 4 hours rather than three- could speed it up a little. LMF is easy stuff to use. I tried some other browning solutions but just use LMF now a days.

 

[ncmtmike]

:blah: Now if I have to start taking a shower to get browning to work :nono: that ain't working :td:

 

[kruzer1]

This may help for getting better coats for browning

I ran across a gentleman on another forum that got frustrated with the strength of bluing/browning solutions and is making his own browning and rust bluing solutions. just go to "rustblue" dot com. He is even running a special for the holidays two for the price of one. I ordered some and hope to try it this month. It's nice to have some more options out there for those browning or bluing.

 

[mikemeteor]

Interesting.
Would love to hear about your experience with this product after a trial or two.
/mike m

 

[kruzer1]

I'm doing some slow rust bluing on a couple different projects during Christmas break. Will let you all know how it come out. The seller claims his stuff needs about half the passes as most of the other products out there (he does not even do a batch up until he get's an order- so there is no "shelf time" on it).

 

[fleener]

I would be careful with something that is supposed to work at half the time. Watch for pitting, unless that is the look you are going for.

For bluing I take everything to 400 grit. Yes it is harder to start, and takes longer, but the finished product is much nicer.

Fleener