using triple seven

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Presently i own two TC New Englanders in .50 caliber. These are the only operational conventional guns i have. Both guns are somewhat contrary. They will have hangfires if not turned right side down when loading the powder or being slapped a couple times on the stock.

i have not had a crud ring in either gun when using 777 powder and PRB or Maxi-Balls.
 
The Knight has a removable breech plug and the barrel was cleaned from the rear with a 16ga. brass brush on a metal rod. That brush was used shortly after the rifle was fired with T7. I never had consistent good accuracy from that brand of Enfield. Never had to deal with the crud ring in a traditional firearm.
 
The crud ring situation seems only to apply to inline rifles. I've never had any such issue with Triple Seven in traditional weapons. Sometimes when I wipe the bore between shots, I can feel where there is a bit more fouling around the point of combustion, but its nothing stubborn, and a damp patch takes care of it with a single pass.
 
No, I just usually wipe between shots when shooting targets. It isn't hard to load or anything like that. I do the same thing with bp.

In my experience, Triple Seven produces a lot less shot for shot fouling than most bp. Swiss is close, but not better. The two big things you want to remember with Triple Seven are: It doesn't really like being compressed. You want to seat the ball firmly on the powder, but you aren't trying to pound it on there. That's more a problem with revolvers than with rifles, and can be avoided to a large degree by using cream of wheat as a buffer between the powder and ball. When its overly compressed, velocity results can get erratic. Its not a big problem, its just something to be aware of. Secondly, it seems to burn out patches more often than bp, especially with heavier loads. If you run into this, just use 20-30grns of cream of wheat between the powder and the ball. I do that with bp, too, and have had very good results with it.
 
I know this is the percushion long gun forum index, but I have to say I have used trip 7 in my BP handguns for years. I find cleanup the same as hot water and soap, and I can fire more cylinders per outing than I could with typical BP. Myself I use both trip 7 and true Bp. The only thing I have bad to say about triple 7 is it's cost. It generally cost about 5-7 dollars more per pound. But it is easier to buy. Heck even Wally World just has it setting on the shelf that you can grab as you go by. Black Powder you have to ask for it, and they have to go get it out of a powder safe, and you have to answer a bunch of stupid questions.
 
For me its been the difference between shooting my bp guns a few times a year, and doing it on a very regular basis. And the first two cap and ball revolvers I bought would have been the last two were it not for Triple Seven.
 
I have never seen a crud ring with a Traditional rifle. The lube used with both conicals and patched round balls seems to prevent it. Modern inline rifles use a plastic sabot which has no lube and I think that is where the crud rings comes from (lack of lube). If you don't want a rifle to rust, you need to use "OIL" in the barrel after cleaning it. Remove the oil when you want to use the rifle again later. Bore butter as we have talked about here before, does not prevent rust.
 
Okie Hog said:
Like blackpowder, Pyrodex contains sulfur: The sulfur makes it very corrosive. 777 does not contain sulfur. It's much less corrosive than either Pyrodex or blackpowder. Two of my loaner guns often went uncleaned for a couple weeks at a time with no corrosion from the use of 777.
With respect, sulfur does not produce fouling that is anywhere near as corrosive as chlorine does, whether from chlorate oxidizers in powder or priming compounds or from chloride impurities in potassium nitrate or in the water used in powder manufacture.

And some of us have been lucky with guns left uncleaned on occasions, likely in lower humidities.

Regards,
Joel
 
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