Vent Liner

[GreyWhiskers]

I'm looking into buying a flintlock kit. What is the "vent liner"? Is it just the passageway into the barrel? Is it removeable? :hmm:

 

[Packdog]

Grey Whiskers,
A vent liner is screwed into the barrel rather than a hole drilled directly thru the barrel wall. They have a cone shaped channel rather than a straight hole. Some can be removed with a screw driver, some with a hex head and some like a Chambers liner are filed off smooth so they can not be taken in and out. I think most are aslo made of stainlesss steel for strength.
I hope that helps rather than confuse.
Good luck finding a flinter!
PD

 

[Packdog]

Go to this link and scroll about 1/2 way down. Look for a White Lightnin liner.Chamber's Parts page link

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Thanks Dog. I checked out the link. I had an idea what they were but when it comes to flinters I'm still Gordon Greenass. :hatsoff:

 

[Packdog]

No problem. I happy your asking questions about flinters rather than inlines.
What kind are you thinking about?

PD

 

[GreyWhiskers]

I've never figured out the allure of inlines. They don't do anything for me.

 

[John Taylor]

While the stainless is probably a lot stronger than the 12L14 used on muzzle loaders the main reason for using it is to make it last longer. Ever try cutting stainless with a cutting torch?

 

[Old Ironsights]

While the stainless is probably a lot stronger than the 12L14 used on muzzle loaders the main reason for using it is to make it last longer. Ever try cutting stainless with a cutting torch?

It also is a breeze to clean. I really love my TC Firestorm Flint.

 

[Zonie]

The most important advantage of the Vent Liner was mentioned by Packdog: "They have a cone shaped channel rather than a straight hole."

This "cone shaped channel" is installed with the large end towards the bore. It allows the powder in the main charge to get up very close to the outside of the barrel which results in a very short touchhole for the pan flash to have to go thru to get to the main powder charge.
This results in much more reliable and faster ignition.

The only way to achieve this thin wall at the vent hole, without going to a liner is to either carve out a cavity in the bore for the vent to intersect (very hard to do), or to drill a hole almost clear thru the barrel from the opposite side. Then tap and plug this larger holes enterance and drill the vent to intersect the point of the larger hole.

Of course, the other option is to use a 3/32 diameter vent hole thru the barrel wall, but IMO, the losses in both powder and pressure from doing that makes it a poor (but Historically Correct) substitute.

Zonie

 

[davy]

Here is a vent liner installed in a barrel. :thumbsup:

davy

 

Definition: "vent liner": an unnecessary extra piece sometimes added to a flintlock barrel, more common in modern made flintlocks than in originals. :haha: Actually, I have three types of touch holes in various rifles: old fashioned straight hole (most common on old rifles), vent liner with interior cone(modern) and no vent liner with exterior cone (also seen on a few old rifles). Frankly I cannot tell much difference [if any] between them in ignition--if anything, I have had more trouble with the exterior coned gun, but it may just be that rifle. My straight hole rifles shoot fast and reliably.

 

[Old Ironsights]

Here is a pic that might clarify what Zonie is talking about:

These are 3 of the "new" design TC liners.

You can see that the actual flash-path constriction point is very short, maybe 1/32 or less.

By using a hex key to remove/install rather than a slot, they were able to essentially make the flash hole larger and deeper without excessive blow-through (a hex key also has less chance of buggering up your barrel...)

An interesting aside would be in the dynamics of plasma. A true cone acts as a reflector, much like a satellite dish. If the exterior is coned, a portion of the flash front gets reflected back (making Mike's lock more troublesome). OTOH, an interior cone refocuses the initial combustion of the powder back into the chamber, i.e. less fire excapes the touch hole.

I think the new TC liner really takes advantage of these dynamics, getting more fire to a shorter path that focuses the fire in the chamber. All good.

 

[stoelpigeon]

:bow: I NEED HELP. I HAVE A CABELA'S KENTUCKY-.50 CALIBER-FLINTLOCK/PEDERSOLI, I BOUGHT THIS RIFLE USED AND THE VENT LINER OR TOUCH HOLE IS REALLY SCARRED ON THE FACE OF IT...WHAT SIZE IS THE REPLACEMENT VENT ? HAS ANYBODY CHANGED THEIRS?
I SURE LEARN A LOT JUST FINDING OUT WHAT EVERYONE HAS TO SAY. THANKS, STOELPIGON

 

[Old Ironsights]

:bow: I NEED HELP. I HAVE A CABELA'S KENTUCKY-.50 CALIBER-FLINTLOCK/PEDERSOLI, I BOUGHT THIS RIFLE USED AND THE VENT LINER OR TOUCH HOLE IS REALLY SCARRED ON THE FACE OF IT...WHAT SIZE IS THE REPLACEMENT VENT ? HAS ANYBODY CHANGED THEIRS?
I SURE LEARN A LOT JUST FINDING OUT WHAT EVERYONE HAS TO SAY. THANKS, STOELPIGON

#1 Someone here will undoubtedly owns a Cabelas Kentucky and can answer.

#2 Call Cabelas. They will be happy to sell you some vent liners.

 

[madbrad]

I dont own one but Cabella's actually has good customer service, I bought a used Cabella's Hawken and called them up and said I had no manuels ect and they sent it right out.

 

[scott k]

I have a Lyman gun and used a rmc sports vent liner part# ML083. It should work for your gun as well. to RMC sports
Lehigh...