Vinegaroon and other "Traditional" Leather Dyes

[BrownBear]

I finally got around to making and trying the vinegaroon dye (rusty iron + vinegar) described in TC Albert's book "Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch."

Wahoo!!!! :thumbsup:

It's a clear dye, but turns the leather progressively gray, then blue/black, then blue/gray as it dries. It's "blue suede shoes" blue until you top it with brown paste shoe wax as TC recommends, but the end results are just outstanding. It really brings out the texture in leather and looks about 200 years old right off the bat. I'll post pics when I get a chance.

My question is, are there other folk or traditional or natural leather dyes a guy might use. I'm REAL interested in results and formulas, but want something with a little more "emphatic" results than what you get with strong coffee or tea to shade the leather.

Thanks for any replies, and especially links to sources. I tried googling, and as always these days, mostly got companies trying to sell me something or lure me into using their own search engines.

 

[LRB]

LaBonte can likely give you a large list. I doubt if there are any he hasn't tried.

 

[David G]

Yes,please post pics.What type of leather did you apply it to? Also, black walnut hull juice is another easy and traditional dye. :thumbsup:

 

[Stophel]

Make sure you use this ONLY on REAL OAK TANNED leather! It will absolutely DESTROY the cheap "vegetable tanned" leather. :wink:

 

[yeoldcraftsman]

It will absolutely DESTROY the cheap "vegetable tanned" leather

Stophel, perhaps an explanation is needed to those who aren't up on the latest? Is this a personal experience or......??

Thanks for any info regarding the above would be appreciative.
Gary

 

[ohio ramrod]

The old stand by neatsfoot oil will darken most light leathers. As well as soften and preserve the leather.

 

[Stophel]

Some of the crap that is used to tan the less expensive "vegetable tanned" leather does NOT react well with the vinegar/iron colorant. It turns it blue at first, then it may turn dark gray or blackish after a day or two. A week later you can rip the leather like tissue paper. Literally. I have been told that you should ONLY use real oak tanned leather (the good, high quality, expensive stuff) with this type of black stain. Like Wickett and Craig or Hermann Oak. I have not tried the better leather yet myself, but I have ruined plenty of cheaper leather with this dye!

Eh, I hate black leather anyway....I dye it brown with walnut...

:grin:

By the way, I actually called Tandy one day and asked them what they did use on their lesser grade of "Vegetable tan" leather, and they told me (if I remember correctly) it was Mimosa. They said they did not add any other acids. I have been told second or third hand that some of the other lower grade tanneries add various other acids to the tanning solution.

I would recommend to Brownbear to test his black stain out on scrap pieces first, and let them sit for 2 or three weeks at least to see if it is going to weaken his leather before actually making something with it or staining his finished piece. :wink:

 

[BrownBear]

I would recommend to Brownbear to test his black stain out on scrap pieces first, and let them sit for 2 or three weeks at least to see if it is going to weaken his leather before actually making something with it or staining his finished piece. :wink:

Too late, but I'll sure keep my eye on it. Thanks!

 

[BrownBear]

I finally got around to grabbing a few snapshots of the bag.

Following the advice here, I checked for cracks and saw some forming. I dosed it twice real good with TOW mink oil grease (patch lube, actually) and it's now soft and pliable, with the cracks actually adding nicely to an "antique" effect. I'll check it again periodically to see if it needs more grease, but for the time being I'm satisfied (actually delighted) with the results. Time will tell, and I'll surely be watching it closely as I beat the snot out of it over the next year.


Out of sight are 1/2" brass buckles on the strap to accept my horn straps. Length of strap is adjustable by a 1 1/4" brass buckle.

This is the front view. The black spot on the flap is a natural hole in the hide. I liked it, so I used the piece. You can see the scarring of the hide from insect bites. I like those too, so they're front and center. There's a 2" tapered gusset across the bottom and ending part way up the sides, and double welts.

There's a small pocket with a 1" gusset on the front panel. The button is no problem for "speed" because I stow stuff in here not needed for shooting. The main pocket is for shooting accessories only, leaving plenty of room for a big hand.

I put a flat pocket on the back for flat stuff like cleaning patches. Same reasoning on putting things there and using the button.

Closeup of the cracking after treatment with mink oil grease. It seems to have stabilized the cracks while softening the leather. More MOG as needed.

 

[gmarc]

Has anyone ever tried vandyke crystals? I have used them on wood, but not on leathers

 

[LaBonte]

Has anyone ever tried vandyke crystals? I have used them on wood, but not on leathers

they're made from walnut hulls, which many, many of folks have used on various types of leather so I would assume they should work fine.

 

[dyemaker]

There are a few dyes on this page, don't know if they are useful tho. .
http://braintan.com/barktan/6currying.htm

 

[BrownBear]

That's a real useful link. Thanks!