• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

walker out of timing

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

echo89

32 Cal.
Joined
Sep 14, 2005
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
I have a Walker I bought to hang on the wall in my garage/disassemble for fun($25). It is pretty much a junker, kit w/ bad finish, not cleaned properly, etc.... I noticed when cocked, the cylinder continues to revolve about 1/4 inch past battery, as the hammer does not stop, and also continues a little further to the rear. The full cock locks up where it is supposed to.

After comparing this to my shooting revolvers and the exploded drawings, I can only guess that the pawl is not sufficiently engaging the notches to lock up the cylinder, thereby letting the hammer go past full cock, pushing the hand up to far, on and on. Am I right on this? I can't figure out what else could be wrong, and would like to know in case this happens to any of my other Colts.

Thanks, DC
 
The part that stops and locks the cylinder in place is called a cylinder bolt, Dixie gun works calls it a cylinder stop. Most likely the spring is broken. This spring has 2 legs, one for the trigger and the other for the bolt.The bolt itself is a spring with one leg working off the hammer to lower it when the hammer starts back. It should be released before the hammer gets to full cock so it can drop into the notch in the cylinder.
 
John, thanks. The spring looks good, and what you described is happening, though the bolt looks pretty worn. Is the bolt the final stop in the timing sequence?

Thanks again, DC
 
Sounds like the hand is too long too if it continues to turn the cylinder past the bolt stop, which is probably what caused the problem with the bolt
 
or it could be that the cam-side leg of the bolt is too long dropping the bolt on the far edge of the cylinder notch. bound to be either that or the long hand.
 
If the bolt drops in at the right time and the hammer makes it to full cock then a long hand will not be a problem, it will keep the hammer from going back any further. Start by taking the gun apart and using just the cylinder and bolt, see if the bolt will drop into the cylinder notch with finger pressure on the bolt. If this work fine then put the hammer and hand in and see if the bolt drops in before or after the notch. Adding the bolt/trigger spring will help at this point. If the bolt is dropping after the notch then ether the hand is to long or the leg of the bolt is to long. Install the trigger and see when it engages full cock. If the notch is past the bolt when the trigger goes into full cock then the hand may be to long. Trigger should go into full cock about the same time as the notch lines up with the bolt. the bolt should be timed to drop just before full cock. If it is after full cock then the leg of the bolt needs to be shorter. Go slow when removing any metal and check often by putting it in the gun. It's hard to put metal back on the spring steel of the bolt.
 
Okay, I'll try it by the end of the week, and get back to ya'll. Thanks for the help.

DC
 
Back
Top