Water or Alcohol stain?

[crockett]

Birchwood-Casey has a walnut dye that is water based. I have read that a lot of builders prefer an alcohol stain, I believe because it may penetrate better into maple. I've used aqua fortis but can't find it anymore. In any event, what is the difference between water stain and alcohol stain and what would be better for maple( straight grained without much curl)? Fiebergs(sic?) leather dyes have been discussed as a wood stain. How well do they work? Thanks for any tips. :hmm:

 

[BLAHMAN]

Use the alchohol stain...doesn't raise the grain, the water base will.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Crockett,
Stay with the alcohol stain. It will penetrate better, dries faster, so it won't raise the grain, and is much clearer?? if that's the proper terminoloy. BC tends to muddy up the grain a little. :imo:

 

[Donny]

The water based is fine, so what if it raises the grain, it isn't much to whisker it, some don't bother. I have an old Don Eads cataloge,(Muzzleloader Builders Supply) now Susie's business, he recomends BC walnut "water" stain on maple to darken the curl, then stain with whatever. I do not like alcohol stains, as some times a spot just will not take the color. Also, if you choose alcohol stain, I have had the color removed thru some finishes if bore solvents, etc, leak out the touch hole while soaking the crud out. ::

 

[BLAHMAN]

The water based is fine, so what if it raises the grain, it isn't much to whisker it, some don't bother. I have an old Don Eads cataloge,(Muzzleloader Builders Supply) now Susie's business, he recomends BC walnut "water" stain on maple to darken the curl, then stain with whatever. I do not like alcohol stains, as some times a spot just will not take the color. Also, if you choose alcohol stain, I have had the color removed thru some finishes if bore solvents, etc, leak out the touch hole while soaking the crud out. ::

Sounds like a problem not with the stain, but with the finish. Never had that problem with alcohol satin. That "spot" you refer to may be a resist: oil, dirt, wax whatever, but I've experienced that. Easy solution to a "spot" is to scrape it clean with a sharp knife or razor.

 

[jdhiii]

I use water and alcohol based analine dyes and aqua fortis/ferric nitrate which is water based. I use these on maple, plain and highly figured, walnut and cherry. Actually I don't think there is a minutes difference between the three and each provides good color and ease of use. Analine dyes might be subject to some fading over years. On highly figured woods, the depth and reflectivity of the figure is equal with all three staining approaches and is enhanced most with a clear top finish which is glass smooth. I only reach for the alcohol/analine stain first when I have used water soluble glue (which is never on firearms).
:results:
-d.

Below a pistol originally done with water/analine seen in these links:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/Aeisir/Kennedy%20Flintlock/DSC02329a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/Aeisir/Kennedy%20Flintlock/DSC02339a.jpg