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Found that over time WD-40 leaves what looks and feels like a dried shellac. Like USP-Grade Mineral Oil (what knife-people generally use) but Rem-Oil (with Teflon) for working parts and silicone oil for parts that get battered by flame. But, yes, like having a gun, anything is better than nothing.

"Individual serving" Barricade wipes have worked well for my modern guns afield. I have never heard a bad thing about it but have never bought a bottle version -- never felt the need to adopt it.

Now, can we talk about moccasins?
 
I use "Collector" which is a long term corrosion fighting oil. I use it routinely on all firearms.
It's never failed, even on pieces that haven't been re-cleaned in 2-3 years.
 
blackelm said:
I use "Collector" which is a long term corrosion fighting oil. I use it routinely on all firearms.
It's never failed, even on pieces that haven't been re-cleaned in 2-3 years.

Good to hear, thanks. I think it has been out at least 10 years, yet I never hear of anyone, even on MLF, ever mentioning it, like it is a secret!
 
I use WD-40 as it was intended - for moisture removal after cleaning with hot water. I follow up with Barricade for rust protection and have not found anything better or more effective than Barricade.
 
Found that over time WD-40 leaves what looks and feels like a dried shellac

I have heard and read that complaint a lot over the years. I have never experienced it. And, I have been using WD-40 for decades. If my aging memory is correct, I think I even did an experiment and posted it here. Really, I have never seen this phenonomon.
 
Alden said:
(Found that over time WD-40 leaves what looks and feels like a dried shellac.)

This is true. It totally gummed up the trigger assembly on my Rem 541S after being stored for a while. And nothing would dissolve it. I had to totally disassemble the trigger and scrape off the shellac-like film. But I still use it... on my tractor implements and to keep tools from rusting!
 
My experience with WD40 is the same. Great for drying things out & ok on farm equipment but leaves a gummy residue if left for expended (months) periods. I would never use it on any small or precisely fitted parts like target trigger assemblies, HO trains, etc. Break Free/ Collector is my preferred product for gun storage.
 
I used for YEARS (until this year, just bought barricade for 1st time per the raves on this forum). Never had a issue of guck or rust. I do note alot of the issues with guck reported from higher humidity areas though? :idunno:
 
You may be on to something - there are enough people who have never noticed a problem with WD40 and enough who have had issues that there might well be some environmental conditions that cause/fail to cause the gum-up/shellac ......??

Here in central Virginia low humidity means below 50%.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
I have heard and read that complaint a lot over the years. I have never experienced it. And, I have been using WD-40 for decades. If my aging memory is correct, I think I even did an experiment and posted it here. Really, I have never seen this phenonomon.

My experience has been the same....I've not had any indication of residue after using WD40, and I've been using it for 50 years. Just remember its primary use as a moisture displacer with a light machine oil. For extended storage, you would want to use a heavier rust inhibiting oil later. I've always considered WD40 one of those must-have items for one's toolbox, like duct tape.
 
Or what if there is already some other lubricant present and then the WD40 reacts with it in some way to cause it to dry out. Just saying, the shellac film might actually be what's left of the other lubricant. Regardless, I stick with a plain light oil like RemOil, 3-in-1 or Singer Sewing Machine oil for trigger assemblies. One of my customers (Jewell Triggers) recommends using only... get ready for this... Ronsonol Lighter Fuel on their trigger assemblies as the only lubricant.
 
To all and no one in particular;
After High School 40 some odd yrs ago,, a friend of mine enrolled in an elite Gunsmiths school in Northern Minn. They only took 15 students each year of the 2yr course.
One of the first lessons was about proper cleaning, lubrication and and rust prevention. They began with clean parts and placed several pieces in full glass jars of various lubes and oils, the parts where fully submerged. These jars where placed on a shelf side by side for the full two years
Long story short, the parts in the full container of WD40 began to rust first and by the end of the two yrs they had the worst damage.

I have WD40 at my house and I use it very rarely for what it was intended for,, loosening stuck parts (although there's better stuff for that) and water displacement.
The stuff comes no where near any of my guns.period
Oh, and Paul moved away but is still a gunsmith.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
blackelm said:
I use "Collector" which is a long term corrosion fighting oil. I use it routinely on all firearms.
It's never failed, even on pieces that haven't been re-cleaned in 2-3 years.

Is that a gun care product? Where do you buy it?

Yes, it is. I ordered it online somewhere. It has been so long I cannot remember, but I know it was not cheap. Google it.
 
They began with clean parts and placed several pieces in full glass jars of various lubes and oils, the parts where fully submerged. These jars where placed on a shelf side by side for the full two years
Long story short, the parts in the full container of WD40 began to rust first and by the end of the two yrs they had the worst damage.

That is truly a puzzlement. :hmm:
Some will argue about it's lubricant qualities but most agree it is a water displacement product. So....if water is displaced....how can metal submerged in it rust? :confused:
BTW, I once met the inventor of WD-40 at an NRA convention. He told me personally it is a pure petroleum product. No Martian fish oil or other rumored stuff. :shake: Now back to your experience (first hand, I'm not doubting you), metal submerged in pure petroleum rusted. :shocked2: How? I just don't get it. :doh:
 

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