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Wedge Issue: Any pointers for getting the wedge out of a Pietta 1851 Navy for the first time.

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nine7one

Proud 1851 Navy owner
MLF Supporter
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Messages
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Location
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I just got my 1851 Navy and I'm have more than just a little bit of a hard time trying to get the wedge out. I'll admit I'm not being excessively forceful because I don't want to damage the blueing. I just figured I can't be the first one to experience this, and was hoping to learn any tricks you guys used to get it done. Thanks!

P.S. I am rather familiar with firearms as they were a big part of what I did for a living. I'm totally new to the black powder scene however.
 
Use this.
20230217_050036.jpg


Mike
 
I use a hard plastic hammer. Just did one yesterday. Got it a little too late, the person before had already buggered it up. If you can, remove the screw. Sometimes it drags in the spring. Half **** the revolver and whack it with a hard plastic hammer. I have a hard plastic dowel and a brass one with an end filed down the size of the wedge to drift it the rest of the way out. After you get it out you should see where it’s dragging. Polish that up with sandpaper or use a file. Remove very little at a time. Install screw, fit, polish and oil, repeat until you are satisfied with the results. You don’t want it loose.
Hope this helps.
 
My new wedge is stiff, it take a rap from the mallet to get it loose.
I used to use a plastic tipped mallet, but now I use my wooden mold knocker.
 
Is this a new gun?
There's a good chance your next question is going to be that you can't remove the barrel from the frame.
Been there done that.
Had both problems with brand new in the greasy bag Uberti. After the wedge finally got driven out, the barrel was removed by tapping on the rammer lever with a very small hammer. It would not go back on so at this point the whole thing was sent off to a gunsmith.
I think since the pandemic Italian gun makers have employed poorly trained rats for quality control.
Bunk
 
Thanks for all the great advice!
Had both problems with brand new in the greasy bag Uberti. After the wedge finally got driven out, the barrel was removed by tapping on the rammer lever with a very small hammer. It would not go back on so at this point the whole thing was sent off to a gunsmith.
I think since the pandemic Italian gun makers have employed poorly trained rats for quality control.
Bunk
thanks guys for all the great advice! After I posted my question I decided not to risk damaging the finish and I ordered a mallet and punch set, a set of small metal files, and a screwdriver set designed specifically for use on guns. I still plan to take it apart and figure everything out, but regarding their quality control, I’m still really happy with the gun, but the action is just unacceptable to me, and beyond my ability to fix so I’m going to have a gunsmith do it for me, even if it costs as much as the gun. I was hoping to get to the range next week to try it out but I’m going to wait until I’m happy with it before taking it for a test ride. Thanks again guys!
 
Had both problems with brand new in the greasy bag Uberti. After the wedge finally got driven out, the barrel was removed by tapping on the rammer lever with a very small hammer. It would not go back on so at this point the whole thing was sent off to a gunsmith.
I think since the pandemic Italian gun makers have employed poorly trained rats for quality control.
Bunk


I had a Walker that was so bad I had to use wedges, one on each side, to separate barrel from frame. The oil had turned to crud, but it still needed polished and deburred.
But that kind of goes with the territory. It's a good way to get to know the gun.
 
I just got my 1851 Navy and I'm have more than just a little bit of a hard time trying to get the wedge out. I'll admit I'm not being excessively forceful because I don't want to damage the blueing. I just figured I can't be the first one to experience this, and was hoping to learn any tricks you guys used to get it done. Thanks!

P.S. I am rather familiar with firearms as they were a big part of what I did for a living. I'm totally new to the black powder scene however.
Do not tap it out with anything steel.
And when you put it back in, do not get carried away with that. You are not driving in a nail. I saw an older guy driving one in so hard one time with a steel hammer I wanted to snatch the gun out of his hands and beat him with it prior to shoving that hammer up “where the sun don’t shine”.
Gritted my teeth clenched my fists, and walked away to allow my pulse rate to return to normal.
 
Thanks for all the great advice!

thanks guys for all the great advice! After I posted my question I decided not to risk damaging the finish and I ordered a mallet and punch set, a set of small metal files, and a screwdriver set designed specifically for use on guns. I still plan to take it apart and figure everything out, but regarding their quality control, I’m still really happy with the gun, but the action is just unacceptable to me, and beyond my ability to fix so I’m going to have a gunsmith do it for me, even if it costs as much as the gun. I was hoping to get to the range next week to try it out but I’m going to wait until I’m happy with it before taking it for a test ride. Thanks again guys!
I'd suggest sending it off to Goons Guns if you don't already have a trusted gunsmith. Goons Gun Works.
 
Hey @Ed C. , where is Goons Guns located?
I visited their site and they have zero info. No address or phone number.

I like keeping track of recommended smiths, but I also would like to know where they are located, too.
 
http://www.goonsgunworks.com/Somewhere I don't remember in the great state of Georgia
I have 5 guns done by him and he does good work. He is a one man shop and busy as a one legged man at a rat stomp, so don;t expect overnight service.
A gun wise friend said
"send you guns to the gunsmith when you are young so you can enjoy them in your old age"
Respectfully
Bunk
 
Hey @Ed C. , where is Goons Guns located?
I visited their site and they have zero info. No address or phone number.

I like keeping track of recommended smiths, but I also would like to know where they are located, too.
Sorry, I don't know. I've never sent a gun off to him but the advice and information he has put on this forum has been invaluable to me.
 
I personally won't send $1000s worth of my property to unknown locations and unknown timeframes after having work done to my $1600 Pedersoli musket and the "gunsmith" shipped it to someone else without my knowledge.....so instead of keeping my weapon within my local area so I know where it's at, this guy ships it probably across the country and I had to wait for it.

I'd rather be shooting my "imperfect " guns than have them haunting some guys bench for 8 months.

I've spent 20+ years getting good enough to service my own weapons, I needed something soldered so I figured I'd just pay someone.....mistake #1

I've also had too much stolen out of UPS, FedEx etc that I don't trust these people handling my guns

If I can't drive to go get it, I don't send it.
 
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