On the last photo, it appears there is crack in the main spring just below the bend? If so, it could be an issue.
Maybe hasty but i saw the angle of the Frizzen in his photo & said that's bad !I think your being a little bit unkind well not a little bit A big bit . You probably don't use an Indian made gun. Rudyard defender of the under dog gunmakers .
Dear Philip .If you have a local' Menz Shed ' which is mostly but not exclusively, so for older gentlemen they have all kinds of tools and fairly experience older men but there is no' to young' limit my local one is just 20$ N Z a year. We don't have any 'men only' limitThank you to Rudyard (who is always an excellent source of help and whose voice I some day hope to hear live!), Sam and all. I have less than $200 in it and she has offered a discount instead of sending it back to her. I am inclined to keep it. There are no great books on flintlock locks so what I’ve been doing is buying them here and there and then disassembling them to sort out how they operate. I have a couple years of college level physics which has been completely useless for this application. Some of
These locks were attached to cheap rifles I find in online auctions.
Once I feel I have a better understanding of how these things work I’m going to step up to assembly from castings (TRS or Blackley and Sons). Yes, I’ll call ahead to see what’s in stock and order that.
Thank you all again. This lock will go on the shelf for a bit as I have a “flintlock from scratch” project started. Paid my $75 for the month at the community wood shop so I can use some of the big tools to go from a big ash board to a blank.
On the last photo, it appears there is crack in the main spring just below the bend? If so, it could be an issue.
I'm 54 which isn't young or old. We have a local wood shop co-op with lots of machines. I had 4 former patients who were well known (locally) muzzle loader builders. Unfortunately all have gone to the great beyond and there are none left in my rural area. So - I'm just teaching myself as well as I can. I have no fear of mistakes or critiques so I'll be posting my progress here. Tonights job is to repair a 12" bandsaw that I found by the road this last weekend. Its a 1940's craftsman. The motor works great and I have sourced the only broken part I could find so far. It was in the parking lot of the metal salvage yard. I could tell that whoever dropped it off wanted someone to fix it because the broken bits were bagged up. Anyway, I'll be posting quite a bit as I scratch build this odd rifle that I have planned.Dear Philip .If you have a local' Menz Shed ' which is mostly but not exclusively, so for older gentlemen they have all kinds of tools and fairly experience older men but there is no' to young' limit my local one is just 20$ N Z a year. We don't have any 'men only' limit
My voice is corrupted broad Yorkshire but I can Do Kipling's poems and fond of Burns , I do a passable' Banjo' Patterson ,Robert Service.& bits of Shakespeare fond of the late Stan Rodgers . most expended on the Cats or any critter ,I speak to them in French ,Spanish, & Zulu. and other tongues like my limited Arabic , Hindi,& Indonesian . WHY ! well unless you use a language you forget it. I once met a girl who told me she did two years at uni learning French . I asked" Do you speak it" She said "No" I wondered how she could do that when three weeks hitching in France would serve her better ..However I digress. I think Cyten & Sam nailed it re the Lazzarino lock And thankyou for your kind thoughts .
Regards Rudyard
Believe my Craftsman bandsaw was made in the 1950s. If the tires and guides are in good shape you should be set.12" bandsaw that I found by the road this last weekend. It’s a 1940's craftsman.
Dixie Gun Works lock. I have one, also.Howdy all,
Well, I did one of those “make an offer” thing and ended up with this. Sold as a Miquelet which it isn’t. What it is I’m not sure. Seller said 18th century. I’m thinking 20th century but no clue where. The sear is nearly impossible to depress - maybe due to a tight spring. Seems crude and no support for the tumbler. I’m inclined to send it back but before I did wanted to be sure this is just a semi-modern thing. Or - I may keep it for my collection of weird locks.
Did you ever remove the **** from the tumbler arm? Would really like to completely disassemble this. There looks to be a pin or something going crossways through the outer arm of the tumbler. In the pics of the cleaner one above I can clearly see the square shape of the tumbler arm.Dixie Gun Works lock. I have one, also.
I have not done anything with mine yet. The pan needs adjusting, does not close flat. The main spring to tumbler clearance needs something, it bottoms out. There is no half **** and full **** notch seems a little deep.Did you ever remove the **** from the tumbler arm? Would really like to completely disassemble this. There looks to be a pin or something going crossways through the outer arm of the tumbler. In the pics of the cleaner one above I can clearly see the square shape of the tumbler arm.
Well I have that English lock that I got thinking it was a Snaphance. I plan to order a snaphance (or Miquelet) castings set from Blackley and Sons or TRS if they have one in stock. I think I may be able to build one up from pics. I have plan to mount the parts onto wood or other non-metallic lock plate to work out the geometryDear Philip. I know no specific book on just locks but if you have a particular period & nation in mind I could likley direct you to a good reference work .I have like any' Student of Arms' gathered a good library Regards Rudyard
yeah super stiff. I’ll try to drive that wedge out (gently). I want to use my dead smooth file to clean up all the bearing surfaces and I’m going to anneal the springs because they feel terribly stiff.I have not done anything with mine yet. The pan needs adjusting, does not close flat. The main spring to tumbler clearance needs something, it bottoms out. There is no half **** and full **** notch seems a little deep.
The fit of the tumbler to **** is good. It is not round so the pin/wedge is only to keep them together. A simple punch should remove it.
Howdy all,
Well, I did one of those “make an offer” thing and ended up with this. Sold as a Miquelet which it isn’t. What it is I’m not sure. Seller said 18th century. I’m thinking 20th century but no clue where. The sear is nearly impossible to depress - maybe due to a tight spring. Seems crude and no support for the tumbler. I’m inclined to send it back but before I did wanted to be sure this is just a semi-modern thing. Or - I may keep it for my collection of weird locks.
Hi PhilipDid you ever remove the **** from the tumbler arm? Would really like to completely disassemble this. There looks to be a pin or something going crossways through the outer arm of the tumbler. In the pics of the cleaner one above I can clearly see the square shape of the tumbler arm.
The slanted piece mid ships of the lock might usefully form a' half ****' by a wedge like piece of steel connected by a string like length tied to the gun or a bag perhaps to provide a half ****/safety my lock is from the same stable but has stamped engraveing .' Must be the 'de lux model '. If you do anneal the springs they will be useless untill you re harden then temper them. not a job to undertake lightly you might file it thinner but Ide advise leave as it is. '.part of its charm 'eager to see your pics .Hi Philip
Maybe I can lend a hand here. As Sam and Rudyard mention, the locks can be made to shoot. I sent mine out to have the lock tuned (best as possible), polished out a little further, frizzen hardened, etc. That pin is indeed what holds the hammer to the tumbler arm. You can try tapping it out with a hammer and 1/16" punch. If it doesn't want to move, it will need to be drilled out, and a new pin installed later. You will notice that small nub in front of the hammer arm that looks like it's for a hammer stop. On ORIGINAL Portuguese locks, that nub would turn left and right and act as an external, dog-style safety. But on these Belgium locks, it's just for show. A bit of work on these locks will make them look and function better. I'll post pics of my Belgium re-worked locks along with a couple of original Portuguese locks.
Rick
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