What do I do when the custom gunbuilder sends me garbage?

[wahkahchimaol.com]

Here's the new replica of that gun.
https://www.facebook.com/#!/346590...46590004550/10153454413689551/?type=1&theater

 

[wahkahchimaol.com]

Here's the excess of rust I mentioned. I don't know what to do with this. If these photos post then I'll open a new thread. This is an $1,800 gun. https://www.facebook.com/#!/346590...46590004550/10153454413674551/?type=1&theater

 

[Grizzly Adams]

I am not having any luck opening the pictures.

 

[tecum-tha]

Take the thing apart and neutralize the browning solution.Then rub all metal with steel wool to get rid of the rust. That should get you an aged patine look as "armory" bright was probably more common in the old times.
I would have never paid $1800 for this gun and I would surely know what "builder" put this piece together. Any quality american parts on this gun at all??

 

[Zonie]

It is very obvious from the photos that none of the steel parts have ever been oiled.

As they were never oiled I don't know whether to blame the rust on the builder failing to neutralize the browning agent or it is just due to a lack of proper care.

Had a good coat of oil, even just plain old automotive engine oil been applied to the metal surfaces they would be in far better shape than they are now.

A short comment about browning and blueing:

Both browning and bluing protect the steel under the surface buy forming a layer of a special hard rust.

By itself, the rusty layer will not provide any protection at all. In fact, it will continue to rust unless it is oiled.

Rust will absorb the oil and hold it against the metal sublayer and it is this oil that keeps the oxygen and moisture in the air from getting access to the metal.

If oxygen and moisture can't get to the metal, further rusting will not happen.

From what I see, a through scouring with #00 steel wool on all rusted surfaces to remove all loose rust is needed.

Follow this with a through coating of motor oil on all surfaces, rusted or unrusted on all of the steel parts.

Following this, hand rub a coating of Tung or Linseed oil into all of the wood surfaces of the stock. Right now, the wood looks very dry.

PS: I can see why this rifle was so expensive.
There are no off the shelf parts for this gun and everything, (other than the barrel?) was hand made.

 

[wahkahchimaol.com]

It's a Rifle Shoppe lock, a Rifle Shoppe trigger guard, and Rifle Shoppe ramrod pipes. The buttplate appears to be hand made.

 

[wahkahchimaol.com]

Zonie, thanks for the step-by-step actions. I'll get on them.

 

[Alden]

As I indicated in post 3, the browning wasn't stopped but Zonie's also right -- worst case, a spray from a can of WD-40 without its straw on the removed lock would have arrested deterioration -- there's some nasty chemical reaction going on around there the like of which I have mostly only seen recently around acid (agua fortis'd wood) and chlorine gas.

Might even want to have those parts buffed except for the areas that make contact with other parts -- those cannot be altered, just cleaned as little as possible. Quite salvageable from the outside it seems...

SWAB THE BORE ALL THE WAY DOWN AND AROUND THE BREECH WITH A CLP ASAP!

 

[wattlebuster]

I stand corrected sir. We did get to see some pics. I wonder how the one screw in the buttplate has no rust on it. I would think that the rust would migrate onto the screw even if the rust agent didnt get rubbed on the screw head. That one shiny screw grabs attention :idunno:

 

[wattlebuster]

In this case I dont think you could use too much of any oil

 

[ZUG]

Go to Brownells web sight and do a search for ".0025 Stainless Steel Brushing Wheel". This is a "carding" wheel which is used to remove flaking rust and get a "aged look" but not a polished steel look. This wire wheel will do the job without getting back to bare metal. You will need to take the rifle apart and "card" (mount wire wheel in a electric motor, drill, grinder) each overly flake/rust part to the finish you want then oil the rifle and re-assemble.
I do believe there was a miscommunication between you and your gunsmith. I can see where he made the rifle look more "antiqued" than what you wanted but if you supplied him with pictures of the original then he is at fault. All is not lost - Good Luck

 

[Supercracker]

That gun is saveable. it could be made into a nicely aged weapon.

 

[lowcsp]

The metal parts on this gun look like they came right out of the sweat box but you can make this gun look very good it has to be taken apart totally then with a can of wd-40 and oo and oooo steel wool you start scrubbing (and a lot of shop rags cause you will get real dirty)I soak the metal and the steel wool with the wd 40 and start with the 0000 if that is not aggressive enough then go coarser it should look almost gray when done after that just keep oiled.Then I would also start rubbing the stock with a few drops of linseed oil cut with a small amount of turpentine after a week of that you might get yourself a $1800 dollar gun.

 

[rfisher]

You can save that gun!!! The advice I would give is this...take your time to do it right. Don't rush thru it. Follow the advice that the knowledgeable fellas on this sight are willing to give you., and I honestly think you will come out of this just fine. Also you will have a whole lot of self pride for having done it yourself. When that gun goes to the museum there will be a little bit of you in it and it is gonna be there a long time for many people to see. You have an awesome opportunity here, it's all in how you look at it. :v

 

[smo]

Can someone post the pics for those of us who don't have a Fish Face account :idunno: :surrender:

 

[wahkahchimaol.com]

WD-40 applied. I'm going to work on this gradually. As this develops I'm going to move the thread to a "advice welcome" thread. But for now, let's see if I've learned to post pictures....
This is the lock on the original 1625 Baltic snaplock..

 

[wahkahchimaol.com]

This is the lock of the modern reproduction. It's a Rifle Shoppe lock. It appears to be coated with something which is causing corrosion, then assembled after the exposure. I've got WD-40 on it now.

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[wahkahchimaol.com]

Here's the entire modern gun.

 

[azmntman]

No face book and I could open em all from the start??

 

[Rifleman1776]

asking when it will be finished

That is a very touchy area. I learned early on in this game to be patient with experts and artists. For the most part not asking when a job will be finished results in prompt service, and the best. But....not always. :shocked2:
A dear friend who built one fine rifle for me, has parts for a fowler which has been "in progress" for fourteen years. In that time he has had personal problems and I have not pushed. But, maybe time has come to insist just so I can get my $1,000.00 worth of parts back. From now on I'll get an estimated completion date and make a few calls along the way to assure it is in the works.