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What is my new dog lock musket, or doglock musket, supposed to be? And who made it?

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Joined
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Good day all, my first post of several. I have lost my mind over early British muskets, and just bought at a stupid price this dog lock. A little over 75 caliber, 46 inch barrel, walnut stock- never fired, I think. No visible marks. Nail fastened butt plate, sheet brass sideplate, wooden rod with a brass tip. Pictures below.

First question, as they say in the art fraud world, what is it trying to be? I believe it's meant for a William III / Queen Anne land service musket, but I'm asking the experts here!

Second question, who made it, or at least who made the parts?

I've attached a picture of the lock inside. I worried that it might be Indian since the catalogue pictures were rotten, but it is much higher quality. Rifle Shoppe parts maybe? They don't have pictures so I can't compare. The barrel is marked by Douglas AND Rayle, which is odd. Do they make barrels for any kit or parts suppliers?

I'm having some operating problems with the lock, I made a separate post about that-

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/doglock-lock-problems.185981/

Thank you all!

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Good day all, my first post of several. I have lost my mind over early British muskets, and just bought at a stupid price this dog lock. A little over 75 caliber, 46 inch barrel, walnut stock- never fired, I think. No visible marks. Nail fastened butt plate, sheet brass sideplate, wooden rod with a brass tip. Pictures below.

First question, as they say in the art fraud world, what is it trying to be? I believe it's meant for a William III / Queen Anne land service musket, but I'm asking the experts here!

Second question, who made it, or at least who made the parts?

I've attached a picture of the lock inside. I worried that it might be Indian since the catalogue pictures were rotten, but it is much higher quality. Rifle Shoppe parts maybe? They don't have pictures so I can't compare. The barrel is marked by Douglas AND Rayle, which is odd. Do they make barrels for any kit or parts suppliers?

I'm having some operating problems with the lock, I made a separate post about that-

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/doglock-lock-problems.185981/

Thank you all!

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The lock is a navy arms 1763/66 lock by Miroku, it was defarbed into a dog lock. The late was elongated, there is a welding scar at the top of the sear spring screw.

Most dog locks did not have a pan bridle or a French style sear spring too, it’s an ok defarb, not great.
 
The lock is a navy arms 1763/66 lock by Miroku, it was defarbed into a dog lock. The late was elongated, there is a welding scar at the top of the sear spring screw.

Most dog locks did not have a pan bridle or a French style sear spring too, it’s an ok defarb, not great.
Bingo. That explains the lock to me. I was puzzling on it.

The gun is someone’s creation of a “could have been” early gun. Doglocks are not easy to source and this maker got creative.

Let’s see the side plate.
 
So much experienced knowledge! Here are some pictures of the inner surface of the lock plate and the top above the sear spring. I would have thought the original sandy cast surface of the lock was undisturbed, do you mean the craftsman just added steel to the top of the plate?

And below, too- similar weld add marks below the dog pivot bolt hole. Good eye!

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Some dogs have a thingy that is a little rod projecting inwards. It comes to rest on the lock plate when flopping back. It requires wood removal around the lock panel.

If I was going to rely on a long rear lock bolt to stop the dog from flopping back I’d turn the projecting end smooth and rounded on the end. No threads sticking out.

Dog locks are a thing. It hollers “early”. But if there’s an internal half cock notch the dog is mostly for looks.
 
Some dogs have a thingy that is a little rod projecting inwards. It comes to rest on the lock plate when flopping back. It requires wood removal around the lock panel.

If I was going to rely on a long rear lock bolt to stop the dog from flopping back I’d turn the projecting end smooth and rounded on the end. No threads sticking out.
That was my plan if it's correct. Am I right about it being a William III era musket in style?
 
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