What is your procedure……

[longcruise]

I'm guessing the flash through an empty clear vent will be faster than the burn through of the vent full of the load (main charge) powder.

I think Larry tested that and found no significant difference. I don't have link to it.

 

[M. De Land]

If you do get one, I doubt you'll change it after shooting a bit. Let's wait and see.

Yeah, flint guns aren't for every one but they do tend to be addicting, interesting and just plain fun to shoot. They are a handy cap though for competitive match work and a win against cap guns is particularly note worthy and gratifying !

 

[Rob M.]

Locks are are as different/individual as people an one wants to choose and tune those that have a pleasant, reliable disposition. An ornery, disagreeable lock is about as welcome as the same traits in a person.
When match shooting I pressure flake after every relay as this promotes consistency of spark generation and speed of ignition which translates to more points scored over a match cycle.
Pressure flaking is far more reliable and precise than is any form of percussion or nipping sharpening! It also greatly extends flint life.
I often pressure flake shapen while the flint is still in the **** against a popcycle stick backing the lower edge. One can usually pop off a row of small chips clear out to each corner which tend to snap off with any form or percussion of nipping.
Pressure flaking does several important things to a flint edge. First it lowers the edge each time so the flint strikes a different place on the frizzen to wear more evenly.
Secondly, it sets up a strengthening ridge between each flake lessening the chance of flint fracture.
Thirdly it allows the edge to be sharpened out to each corner without breaking them off.
The same characteristics would be applicable to hunting.

Thats great ...I'd sure like to see ya pressure flake a flint in the jaws . Sounds like a very promising technique !

 

[M. De Land]

Thats great ...I'd sure like to see ya pressure flake a flint in the jaws . Sounds like a very promising technique !

Some years back I did a video of pressure flaking and will see if I can find it. I'm trying to remember if I did it in the **** jaws against a pop cycle stick or on the table. I'll see if I can locate it.

 

[Rob M.]

That'd

Some years back I did a video of pressure flaking and will see if I can find it. I'm trying to remember if I did it in the **** jaws against a pop cycle stick or on the table. I'll see if I can locate it.

That'd be great ! Thanks !

 

[Coinneach]

Some years back I did a video of pressure flaking and will see if I can find it. I'm trying to remember if I did it in the **** jaws against a pop cycle stick or on the table. I'll see if I can locate it.

Back in the 70s an ol boy showed me how to knap a Flints edge while it was still the **** jaws, you have to be seated and the ML laid across your legs up close, with the Frizzen/Battery open lift the **** up but not to lock it in half-**** position; holding the **** with one hand lower it little by little so the heel of the Frizzen can just touch the forward edge of the Flint; then carefully use the Frizzens heel to press down on the Flint edge making sure that the Frizzens heel only contacts the minimum of the Flints edge.
When youre done tilt the Gun to clear any Flint debris out of the Pan etc.

 

[M. De Land]

Back in the 70s an ol boy showed me how to knap a Flints edge while it was still the **** jaws, you have to be seated and the ML laid across your legs up close, with the Frizzen/Battery open lift the **** up but not to lock it in half-**** position; holding the **** with one hand lower it little by little so the heel of the Frizzen can just touch the forward edge of the Flint; then carefully use the Frizzens heel to press down on the Flint edge making sure that the Frizzens heel only contacts the minimum of the Flints edge.
When youre done tilt the Gun to clear any Flint debris out of the Pan etc.

Well, the trick of flint sharpening in the **** jaws with a pointed pressure flake tool is minimizing the pressure on the **** arm by knapping against a pad or in my case a popcycle stick under the edge supported by the pointer finger.
I also do this in my lap while sitting or on a bench top while standing. This puts all the pressure of pushing off chips against your own finger where the pressure is very well regulated and not on the **** arm.

 

[Coinneach]

Well, the trick of flint sharpening in the **** jaws with a pointed pressure flake tool is minimizing the pressure on the **** arm by knapping against a pad or in my case a popcycle stick under the edge supported by the pointer finger.
I also do this in my lap while sitting or on a bench top while standing. This puts all the pressure of pushing off chips against your own finger where the pressure is very well regulated and not on the **** arm.

Theres insignificant pressure on the **** arm using the method I outlined, try it and you'll be surprised.

 

[M. De Land]

I've been aware of the method you described for years and have used it a bit. It pressures both the **** arm and frizzen much more than does supported pressure flaking which is pushing off very small chips with a pointed tool as opposed to pressuring the high spots on a dull flint edge by leveraging the **** against the frizzen.
Also a throated **** arm is far more rigid than is a serpentine arm with the later being most common these days and in need of support while flint sharpening in the **** jaws.

 

[BigAl52]

Secondary. I said the same thing when I was thinking about getting a FL. Now its primary and secondary. I only hunt steel. I shoot mine till the flint fails. When it does I look at the flint if I determine it needs change I do it. My caplocks are lonely and starved for attention because I want to be better shooting my primary and secondary FL

 

[bpd303]

Back in the 70s an ol boy showed me how to knap a Flints edge while it was still the **** jaws, you have to be seated and the ML laid across your legs up close, with the Frizzen/Battery open lift the **** up but not to lock it in half-**** position; holding the **** with one hand lower it little by little so the heel of the Frizzen can just touch the forward edge of the Flint; then carefully use the Frizzens heel to press down on the Flint edge making sure that the Frizzens heel only contacts the minimum of the Flints edge.
When youre done tilt the Gun to clear any Flint debris out of the Pan etc.

My grandfather did something like that when we would be out squirrel hunting with his .36 cal Ohio flintlock. He called it refreshing the flint. Never had a failure to spark & fire after he did that. However my recalling may be a little off as this was some 70 years ago.

 

[ETipp]

A flintlock as secondary ML?

I thought a flintlock is primary, secondary, and tertiary.

Some of you flintlock fellas have inhaled too much black powder smoke.

 

[M. De Land]

Some years back I did a video of pressure flaking and will see if I can find it. I'm trying to remember if I did it in the **** jaws against a pop cycle stick or on the table. I'll see if I can locate it.

 

[Sun City]

Still kicking around the idea of getting a flintlock as a secondary ML and for fun. So, I’m still collecting information from some of you hardcore flintlock fans. One of which is the result of watching many videos and seeing misfires. Some of those was determined to be due to the flint. After fiddling with, or replaced the flint, those rifles fired. I fully realize that less than ideal locks can be problematic.

This brings up an interesting point.

What is your procedure, in terms of how long to run a flint before a misfire?

Is this something that is learned by simply knowing from experience just how far a flint can go on a specific rifle?

Do you change the flint out before it’s past its useful life span or do you continue shooting until a misfire?

Do you remove the flint before a misfire then try to reform it for future use?

Misfires I think are the result of what's being put down the bore in wiping solution and then getting too heavily into the breech area! Flints are a critical aspect and if not right can cause problems!