What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

[TDM]

I have a set on the way for my Pietta 1860 as well. These reportedly almost eliminate the cap sucking jam problem. Check the "horns" on your hammer face too. They're really sharp/edgy on my gun. Will polish them as well.

You’ll love your Slix Shots, and yes, polishing out the hammer horns are a great help.

 

[Bullit]

So, I have a nice german optic 25X spyglass that resides in my possibles bag. Problem is it has a shinny blue leather cover. No es histórico!
Well, I fixed that by making a more appropriate cover for the spyglass. Now it looks more at home with the other early 19th century gear in my possibles bag. View attachment 193469View attachment 193470

So cool. I always wanted one of those.

 

[mushka]

Took the lever and rod off my Lee lead pot and cleaned out the pot and spout well and put it back together. Put lead back in the pot and poured 80 .530 balls. The cleaning sure did make a difference in pouring.

 

[Century to late]

Took the lever and rod off my Lee lead pot and cleaned out the pot and spout well and put it back together. Put lead back in the pot and poured 80 .530 balls. The cleaning sure did make a difference in pouring.

Anything special on cleaning them? Mines filthy.

 

[ETipp]

Painted the front beads white on my New Englander and the wife's Hawken. Also boxed up an ML that I just sold.

 

[Pierre009]

I got a delrin replacmeent for my cva hawken from track of the wolf.

Thanks...just an FYI in case of expedience...a good oak dowel with long grain from Home Depot or Lowes a 38 cartridge heated & then put on the dowel with a 38 cartridge turned using a drill to get rid of the rim so it would go into the rifle & then again heated & forced onto the dowel works great. Once those cartridges cool off they are there to stay.

 

[mushka]

Century, mine had a lot of buildup on the sides and bottom. There was a lot of residue down around the spout that wouldn't allow the plug to completely close the hole while pouring. Constant drip. Wire brush for the sides, flat scraper for the bottom and small pick to clear the drain hole, wire wheel for the plug. Not hard just time consuming. Over 40 years of use and junk, first time maintenance.

 

[SOLANCO]

@Century too late, I went back over it with the round file and folded sandpaper. I’m going to call this finished now before I bugger it up!

Just don't get near it with a Dremel!

 

[SOLANCO]

1842 Musket Project:
Sigh.. Alas, I sent pix of the barrel to my friendly neighborhood N-SSA Small Arms Committee member and found out that since the barrel was originally a rifled barrel that it will always be considered a rifle barrel. Therefore, cannot be relined or made into a Smoothbore. Well, it could but just won't be allowed in smoothbore matches. Which was the whole point in the affair. Frustrating is the word that kind of describes it. The good news is that I can get a newly manufactured 1842 smoothbore barrel from Whitacre Barrels and that would be OK. Going to rename this from 'Johnny Cash Cadillac' musket to 'tarbaby' musket.

"Therefore, cannot be relined or made into a Smoothbore."
Is he a government employee in "real life"?

 

[SOLANCO]

Got an angle grinder and belt sander for Christmas and put them to good use. Worked on my file knife as my first project with them. Got the basic shape cutout and beveled the blade. The OAL is 9”, 4.5“ for the handle, 4.5” for the blade. The thickness is 3/16”. It’s got heft! Put some bluing on it for fun/looks. Got some elk antler scales ordered (Ebay) for cheap. Need to get to work on a sheath next.
View attachment 193101

Does the angle grinder heat the metal very much?

 

[brushblind]

I'm still trying to remove one back trigger guard screw from my ROA revolver after many soakings and heat cycles, still stuck. I might be down to drilling and using bolt extractors but I don't have a drill press, maybe it's time to seek a gunsmith, don't want to mar it up!

 

[chorizo]

Purchased a White Mountain Carbine 54 cal stock in pristine condition for darn cheap for future projects or replacement spare, some diamond polish paste to smooth out a frosted bore and ran some ballistic calculations for target velocities and retained energy before heading to the range (if we ever get above 40 degrees again...damn global warming!)

 

[Century to late]

Century, mine had a lot of buildup on the sides and bottom. There was a lot of residue down around the spout that wouldn't allow the plug to completely close the hole while pouring. Constant drip. Wire brush for the sides, flat scraper for the bottom and small pick to clear the drain hole, wire wheel for the plug. Not hard just time consuming. Over 40 years of use and junk, first time maintenance.

Thanks.

 

[SOLANCO]

Go for it. But do some research first. I browned my Lyman 50 cal & used tea & coffee and some other stuff, if I remember correct cherries to stain the stock. Then I used beeswax and heat to rust proof the barrel. This was in 70-71 that rifle still looks great and shoots better than the other ones I have. The molecular structure of beeswax is a lot smaller than paraffin.

"Then I used beeswax and heat to rust proof the barrel. This was in 70-71 that rifle still looks great ".
Recently got some Ren wax and like it very much. It has made me wonder that wax is not used more often for rust proofing firearms. Don't think you would want it in the actions though.
The can reads "micro-crystalline wax polish". Wonder how that compares to the beeswax molecule.

 

[Pierre009]

I'm still trying to remove one back trigger guard screw from my ROA revolver after many soakings and heat cycles, still stuck. I might be down to drilling and using bolt extractors but I don't have a drill press, maybe it's time to seek a gunsmith, don't want to mar it up!

Good luck...still trying to remove those nipples from that cap & ball revolver...nothing seems to work.

 

[brushblind]

Good luck...still trying to remove those nipples from that cap & ball revolver...nothing seems to work.

I had a couple that were stuck so I soaked in kroil , used a 3/16th socket and a couple light taps and they came out. Use a new socket for best results, with a screwdriver handle.

 

[SOLANCO]

Good luck...still trying to remove those nipples from that cap & ball revolver...nothing seems to work.

Tried Kroil? Douse it real good and let sit overnight.

 

[COTNTOP]

I plugged nipple with toothpick and soaked with Kroil. Then clamped in a vice with wood blocks and presto it came out with cylinder clamped firmly.

 

[Pierre009]

Thanks for all the help. Haven't tried Kroil but will order some. Tried heat & heat & more heat plus blaster etc no luck. Ruined two makeshift nipple wrenches made out of 1/4 inch sockets & a dremel tool. Just went on Trade of the Wolf ordered a nipple wrench for 36 & 44 cal revolvers. Thanks seems like a good source.

 

[SOLANCO]

Thanks for all the help. Haven't tried Kroil but will order some. Tried heat & heat & more heat plus blaster etc no luck. Ruined two makeshift nipple wrenches made out of 1/4 inch sockets & a dremel tool. Just went on Trade of the Wolf ordered a nipple wrench for 36 & 44 cal revolvers. Thanks seems like a good source.

If you have a good local hardware they likely have Kroil on the shelf.