Yes sir i did, he was scared to build the kit. It was my 1st & i did ok with it. I actually did very well on my next deal with it. I sold it for enough samolians i bought a new T/C Renegade .54 n all the shooting supplies for it.I think you got the better end of the deal on that one!
I got one back in 78, it shot a maxiball very well with 60 gr of Goex 3 f. I killed a few tick toters with it. Then a friend asked if i would trade. I said what cha got ? He says a new in the box .50 cal T/C Hawken kit n i said done deal.
Never could use mine. Got it used at a pawn shop and knew nothing about black powder. This was well before internet and I only knew one guy that even had a muzzleloader. He told me how much powder to use and how to load it and that was my only mentoring. First time I loaded it the day before muzzleloader season opened the nipple blew out on the first shot. Took it to the local gun Smith and he put a new nipple in it. Second shot and that nipple blew out. Back to the Smith. He rethreaded the hole and put in an oversized nipple. Third shot was also a flying nipple. I was only loading 60 grains so I'm guessing the breech plug was just soft. Sold it years later on GB and made sure the buyer understood it was unsafe to shoot. All that didn't stop me though. I missed that opening weekend back in 94 but the next weekend I came home with a new investarms version of a GPR and a new Investarms Hawken carbine. Never looked back.I got one back in 78, it shot a maxiball very well with 60 gr of Goex 3 f. I killed a few tick toters with it. Then a friend asked if i would trade. I said what cha got ? He says a new in the box .50 cal T/C Hawken kit n i said done deal.
We that stinks. I'm sure you will find a way to pass the time though.Well, I’m somewhat disappointed. I’m back at my camp and was going to spend the evening studying the relief carving photos on the thumb drives I ordered from the Kentucky Rifle Foundation but they will not open on the laptop I have here. The laptop is only 20 years old running Windows XP, can’t imagine what the problem is.
But I’m really surprised that the thumb drives won’t work on the TV which is maybe 7 years old tops. I watch all my game camera photos on the TV with a card reader. Oh well.
www.22lrreloader.com has the prime-all kits in stock.“He who hesitates is lost…” I’m referring to me, not you.
I should‘ve bought the cap making kit and all the trimmings when I first saw it (it was in stock). A few weeks later, I saw an article written by Tyler Freel in Outdoor Life about it a couple of days after it was released and what I expected as I read it was true. Sold out and back ordered everywhere it was previously available. Snooze, ya loose.
All is not lost, tho… I scored some RWS caps from Grafs a week ago. Those should last me a while.
Hey, thanks, BD! Got my order in before they sell out again.www.22lrreloader.com has the prime-all kits in stock.
Can you foresee having any time soon to test whether the brass works better than the copper?Amazon. They’re .005”.
Got a roll of .005 copper there too.
No, my to do list is long already and my procrastination level is high. But there’s a couple of active cap making threads where using each is discussed.Can you foresee having any time soon to test whether the brass works better than the copper?
I got another pack enroute, as well.Hey, thanks, BD! Got my order in before they sell out again.
A man of a kindred spirit!… my to do list is long already and my procrastination level is high.…
Can’t really give any useful advice since I’ve yet to use my stuff, but how or what are you using to hit or push the dies with? Don’t know how it’s going to work, but a few months ago I bought a 2 ton press mainly to use for cap making whenever I finally get around to it.Tried the concept of lubing the copper strips. I used the Imperial sizing wax, WD 40 and the Costco version of Pam. None of the three had any positive effect on the process. The three photos below represent the three different lubes. No point in identifying which is which because they are pretty much the same.
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But my little brain did (finally) recognize at least part of the problem. Notice where the punch is right at the edge of the strip and how it's rougher and sometimes broken through. This is where the strips have been hanging up.
I was able to improve the process by being certain that the strips were pushed all the way to the back of the slot and by leaving a little more space between the cutouts.
Under the best of circumstances, the aluminum is the better option. The copper is softer and tends to follow the punch a little and is easily hung up.
The manufacturer could possibly improve the design by by cutting the slot a little deeper so the punched hole is a bit further from the edge.
Could also be user modified but I'm not planning on doing it. Will focus on improving technique.
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