• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Had a table for the first time at the TN/KY Longrifle Show in Knoxville, Tennessee. We visited with old friends that we only occasionally get to see and made a few new ones. It was a great, and if you like southern rifles, you'll love this show.
Great! Can you post a photo of your table for us who can’t be there? Have a grand time ( y’all look so happy!)
 
Recently purchased a pretty, like new Pietta Starr Double Action revolver through a live auction, a few days ago. Was just sent the invoice and forwarded my info to them, to complete the deal. Sometimes you can get a decent
base price, for items, but the Buyer's fee and State sales tax is a killer.

Am also making paper cartridge envelopes. And made up a mock/Proof of concept Paste Board box, for the cartridges. Looks like it will work out. Have about 300+ paper Ctg cones made up. Will have to do with plain coffee filters, as I couldn't get nitrating material sent here.

Am working overseas, so there is only so much that I can do, but can get some of the more labor intensive things done.
 

Attachments

  • 3259_2.jpg
    3259_2.jpg
    31.8 KB
  • 3259_1.jpg
    3259_1.jpg
    75.8 KB
Disassembled and tuned a recently acquired 45 cal flintlock Pedersoli frontier. Enlarged and inlet the ramrod pipes, and hole to 3/8" and made a real ramrod.
Trying to figure out what to do with the clunky looking toeplate.
Pierce it and make some filler pieces, maybe. Always liked the Hatfield style, unlike some others.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0185.jpeg
    IMG_0185.jpeg
    208 KB
  • IMG_0187.jpeg
    IMG_0187.jpeg
    274.8 KB
  • IMG_0189.jpeg
    IMG_0189.jpeg
    251.1 KB
  • IMG_0190.jpeg
    IMG_0190.jpeg
    365.4 KB
I took a little brass front sight off my flintlock on Friday (one I had bought from TOW awhile back) and put the original front blade sight back on. I was struggling with the rifle and was stubbornly clinging to the brass sight that looked so good on my flinter. However, it was just not tall enough and I'm sure I was shooting over top of some of the targets. Enough that it was noticeable inconsistency.

The Pedersoli original front sight is quite a tall blade. Here's my target this morning from a bench rest at 25 yds, as I started out with the original untouched and filed it down. Wind today is 40-50 mph so I was not expecting much from a windage perspective, just trying to get my elevation working. Afterwards I was able to hit a couple of 6" steel plates at 40-50 yds so happy with the sight now and should help me get on target more often. I can ring steel at 150 yds with the caplock, and expect same from the flinter.

image0 - 2024-04-21T124239.669.jpeg
 
I started making my own BP.
Had most of the stuff and thought, why not.
I mixed it up in a ball mill ( harbor freight rock tumbler). Added 91% rubbing alcohol and compressed it. Into Pucks.
Let it dry for 3 days and ground them in a grinder, filtered it with a screen dry. Re wet it, and screened it to to about 3F, and let it dry
Won't get to the range until Wednesday
 

Attachments

  • 20240415_172158.jpg
    20240415_172158.jpg
    1 MB
  • 20240225_154228.jpg
    20240225_154228.jpg
    1.7 MB
Re thinking the conversion of the L&R set trigger for the CVA Frontier. A final check of the possible problems showed that the trigger bow is not deep enough to accomadate the L&R trigger set.

So, Now I'm back to considering the solution offered by @Winterhawk involving stripping the frontier set trigger down and leave just the front trigger but move it back closer to the sear arm. Of course the front trigger works well as it is although a bit heavy. Moving it back will lighten the pull and place the trigger in a better position.

Now trying to calculate the best place to drill. Only get one shot at it.
 
Kinda wasted a beautiful day working in the shop on the pistol remake. Was supposed to rain today but the front pushed through early, really nice outside. Anyway I finished reshaping the stock, used a mixture of stains, used Birchwood sealer/filler, then a coat of Birchwood Tru Oil, which hasn’t dried yet. Stripped the barrel of its half *** browning and applied several coats of blueing. Disassembled the lock and darkened it up. Actually darkened up all the metal. Probably get it back together tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3632.jpeg
    IMG_3632.jpeg
    2.6 MB
  • IMG_3634.jpeg
    IMG_3634.jpeg
    987.8 KB
  • IMG_3635.jpeg
    IMG_3635.jpeg
    2.9 MB
  • IMG_3636.jpeg
    IMG_3636.jpeg
    760 KB
A co-worker gave me 300 .440 round balls home cast with a prominent sprue. There was a post of someone who tumbled the balls to remove them, so I tried it today on my home made vibrating parts cleaner thing made. After a few hours it seemed to work. My ears are still ringing!!
 
Kinda wasted a beautiful day working in the shop on the pistol remake. Was supposed to rain today but the front pushed through early, really nice outside. Anyway I finished reshaping the stock, used a mixture of stains, used Birchwood sealer/filler, then a coat of Birchwood Tru Oil, which hasn’t dried yet. Stripped the barrel of its half *** browning and applied several coats of blueing. Disassembled the lock and darkened it up. Actually darkened up all the metal. Probably get it back together tomorrow.
Please post a before and after comparison when you finish!
 
Re thinking the conversion of the L&R set trigger for the CVA Frontier. A final check of the possible problems showed that the trigger bow is not deep enough to accomadate the L&R trigger set.

So, Now I'm back to considering the solution offered by @Winterhawk involving stripping the frontier set trigger down and leave just the front trigger but move it back closer to the sear arm. Of course the front trigger works well as it is although a bit heavy. Moving it back will lighten the pull and place the trigger in a better position.

Now trying to calculate the best place to drill. Only get one shot at it.
have you adjusted the sear? the screw on the tumbler. adjust it until you cant get the lock to stay at full cock then back it off until it stays on full cock now you can adjust the triggers. the factory triggers are as good as any out there and the lock with the adjustment on the sear is capable of being as good as any thing your going to get as a replacement.
 
I participated in a Woods Walk weekend at my cub this past weekend. Friday, I shot claybirds with my fowling gun. Saturday, I shot the Woods Walk. You will have to watch the 12 minute video of the event on our Facebook page. Need more workouts to improve my hold on target. I did okay on the birds though.

 
struggling with the finish on the Kibler Colonial. using exactly the same technique, stain, etc the patch box lid is coming out red while the stock is brown with a green tint! sort of baffled at the moment.
who am i fooling. always baffled but a little more so with this.lid
I had a rifle a while back that had a green tint to it and found out that it needed more heat to bring out the color I wanted. Also if the color you want to get is more to the color of your lid you might try getting some aniline dyes in water and experiment, I've used scarlet red and brown oak and it worked out good. Either way good luck to you!
 
have you adjusted the sear? the screw on the tumbler. adjust it until you cant get the lock to stay at full cock then back it off until it stays on full cock now you can adjust the triggers. the factory triggers are as good as any out there and the lock with the adjustment on the sear is capable of being as good as any thing your going to get as a replacement.
The tumbler adjustment is fine. With the fully assembled trigger set installed the front trigger operates ok although with a heavy pull. The pull can undoubtedly be adjusted at the tumbler BUT, the problem entirely rests with deformity in the front trigger. Installed or Uninstalled and regardless of adjustment to the front trigger adjustment screw. In fact, with the screw adjusted for max pull it will easily slide off the lip of the set trigger.

I've played with remodeling the front trigger but to no avail. A proper front trigger would fix it in a moment but none seem to be available.

I agree that these triggers are good but this one is an exception.

Working on other projects while still cogitating.
 
Waiting for the 2nd coat of Tru Oil to dry on the pistol stock. Decided to tackle a piece of knotted Crepe Myrtle that I cut at home a month or so ago. It will be my rendition of a war club. Have to let it finish drying out before I complete it. If I don’t run out of steam I’m going shooting this afternoon on my woods walk. We want get many more nice, cool days like today.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3441.jpeg
    IMG_3441.jpeg
    2.5 MB
  • IMG_3638.jpeg
    IMG_3638.jpeg
    2.6 MB
  • IMG_3639.jpeg
    IMG_3639.jpeg
    5.9 MB
Back
Top