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Happiness is a Chambers flintlock on a rainy East Tennessee morning.
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Just plinking offhand at about 30 yards. Homemade flint, 60 grains 3f in main charge and prime from same horn, spit lubed homemade jute tow over powder, home cast .600 round ball and green leaf wad over ball.
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Happiness is a Chambers flintlock on a rainy East Tennessee morning.View attachment 320542
Just plinking offhand at about 30 yards. Homemade flint, 60 grains 3f in main charge and prime from same horn, spit lubed homemade jute tow over powder, home cast .600 round ball and green leaf wad over ball.View attachment 320547
And if you get an insect sting or any sort of skin irritation, you can crush up that plantain leaf and rub it on… it’ll fix more than just your shootin’! Amazing stuff.
 
This has been over the past couple months, but I have a .45 Jukar flintlock that I was having some issues with ignition and wanted to smooth up my lock. I buffed all internal parts, replaced the frizzen, replaced the tumbler and added a stirrup. I also welded a grove that a previous owner filed in the pan near the touch hole and drilled the touch hole out to 1/16". All in all, a lot of little things that have seemed to help my rifle become more reliable. I'm not gunsmith but enjoy tinkering around with things so this has been a fun little project gun. And today with the rain, I poured about 300, .45 cal roundballs.
 
After sitting in the shop for over a year I decided to get back to work on the walnut .36 SMR. I had already cleaned up and fitted the furniture, sized the pins, slotted the barrel lugs, and fitted the ram rod. But nothing to the wood, barrel finish, or lock. So I’m starting on the lock. Now there’s no better out of the box lock than a Kibler that I know of. They can certainly be used reliably as received, but their performance can be noticeably improved with proper polishing of the back plate, tumbler bents, and bridle. As for the exterior metal it’s personal preference, but I hate casting lines and marks. I enjoy seeing just how polished I can get the metal, though to high a polish isn’t conducive to some metal treatments. I’m in no hurry, only have the top jaw polished up at this time.
 

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Yesterday I finished assembling a 'wheel lock' for a fellow forum member, and today I finished assembling a 'very early French lock' from a casting set I bought from Chris Hirsch, AKA; Antique Gun Parts Castings. Soon as the weather clears and it stops raining, I'll fire up my forge and get to work hardening, polishing and tuning the locks. Semper Fi

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After sitting in the shop for over a year I decided to get back to work on the walnut .36 SMR. I had already cleaned up and fitted the furniture, sized the pins, slotted the barrel lugs, and fitted the ram rod. But nothing to the wood, barrel finish, or lock. So I’m starting on the lock. Now there’s no better out of the box lock than a Kibler that I know of. They can certainly be used reliably as received, but their performance can be noticeably improved with proper polishing of the back plate, tumbler bents, and bridle. As for the exterior metal it’s personal preference, but I hate casting lines and marks. I enjoy seeing just how polished I can get the metal, though to high a polish isn’t conducive to some metal treatments. I’m in no hurry, only have the top jaw polished up at this time.
Wow - looks like you chrome plated that top jaw🤩
 
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