- Joined
- May 6, 2013
- Messages
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Hey dad that’s gonna be a sweat little gun when your done .So far, so good. Hope all is good for you too.
Gives me the shivers just looking at it.Finished the war club project.
Now THAT is doing it right. No, way better than right.After sitting in the shop for over a year I decided to get back to work on the walnut .36 SMR. I had already cleaned up and fitted the furniture, sized the pins, slotted the barrel lugs, and fitted the ram rod. But nothing to the wood, barrel finish, or lock. So I’m starting on the lock. Now there’s no better out of the box lock than a Kibler that I know of. They can certainly be used reliably as received, but their performance can be noticeably improved with proper polishing of the back plate, tumbler bents, and bridle. As for the exterior metal it’s personal preference, but I hate casting lines and marks. I enjoy seeing just how polished I can get the metal, though to high a polish isn’t conducive to some metal treatments. I’m in no hurry, only have the top jaw polished up at this time.
Looks greatRang some gongs at the range before it started to snow....yup snow. 30F at the range today. Shot my Frontier flinter.
There is just something about a coonskin cap that improves accuracy, makes more smoke, and just helps make life better.
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Hey would you mind showing us what tools and devices you use for polishing.More lock polishing.
Sure thing. I still had everything sitting out on the workbench so I took a picture. For exterior metal I start with assorted small flat files and shaped needle files, then sandpaper 320 to 600. Then use wool polishing tips and red rouge to polish out. For the inside I only use very fine stones and buff with the rouge. If there is a major burr on the plate back I’ll use a slightly coarser stone to blend it out first. You can’t hurt much on the outside, but the inside is a different story. You never remove metal, unless there is a production burr or casting flash, which you will not find on a Kibler lock. You only want to polish what’s there. Anything that moves and touches, even things like the base side of the sear spring should be polished. If you only polish one or two things you won’t notice much difference, but when it’s all polished the friction reduction adds up and makes a difference. I’ll also show a before and after on the tumbler.Hey would you mind showing us what tools and devices you use for polishing.
Very nicely done. Must be painstaking, but worth it.Sure thing. I still had everything sitting out on the workbench so I took a picture. For exterior metal I start with assorted small flat files and shaped needle files, then sandpaper 320 to 600. Then use wool polishing tips and red rouge to polish out. For the inside I only use very fine stones and buff with the rouge. If there is a major burr on the plate back I’ll use a slightly coarser stone to blend it out first. You can’t hurt much on the outside, but the inside is a different story. You never remove metal, unless there is a production burr or casting flash, which you will not find on a Kibler lock. You only want to polish what’s there. Anything that moves and touches, even things like the base side of the sear spring should be polished. If you only polish one or two things you won’t notice much difference, but when it’s all polished the friction reduction adds up and makes a difference. I’ll also show a before and after on the tumbler.
I was one of the reenactors at the Hawk and Knife station.Went to St. Charles, MO to the Hawken Classic. Lots of original Hawken rifles and other examples of Missouri made rifles. Some venders, activities and reenacters camp. All and all a good dry, ( for a change) day.
I have aged some things with tea staining. Seems to give stuff a nice look.Been messing with my powder horn. Decided to age it further with fiebings dark brown leather dye, not sure what to seal it with when I’m done, don’t want it to bleed dye if it rains… I’ll try to post pictures when I’m done with it.
It can be hard closing chapters! Hope your health picks up!!Started going through all my rondevous stuff that I collected in over 10 years of rondys. My wife and I averaged 40 days per year living under canvas. Some stuff I will never part with, but I have so much in the form of hardly worn footwear and clothes. Due to health reasons, we had to close the chapter on rondevous.
I drove up from Tulsa to the Hawken Classic and met Mr. Grenadier in person and had a great discussion about Hawken rifles and other subjects. It’s a great event and I appreciate the effort that it takes to host such an event.I was one of the reenactors at the Hawk and Knife station.
The display of Missouri rifles is worth the trip. The Museum is free to people attending the Hawken Classic.
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