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Had lots of stuff going on at home today so most of my ml stuff involved thinking. What I've been thinking about and trying to decide what to do about a problem.

I'm putting together a CVA Frontier kit and I've discovered that the set triggers are not right. The hook on the rear blade is misshapen. I fiddled a lot yesterday and wasn't able to correct the problem so I started thinking to make a single trigger for it. I shaped out a trigger plate and all the while thought about alternatives. So, at the end of the day (literally) I set it aside.

The alternatives were, buy another CVA trigger set , but Deer Creek is out. Ebay way overpriced. Then the thought of substituting an available single trigger set occurred and I spent some time on the Track site looking. Only one is sized such that it could work. Next up was a L&R DST4 that I have on hand. It appears that it would, with some trimming and filing be a good option.

So, thinking it through. Here's some pictures. I'm not necessarily soliciting advice but if you think either option is a pit trap feel free to speak up! 😀

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just me after having every variation of trigger cva made I'd take the trigger out and just touch it with my tig welder with music wire for filler rod and then reshape it to work. then reharden and reinstall just saying if you don't have access to a tig a oxy/acetylene torch will work as well
 
Wish there was a big of chat on set triggers and installing them

It’s sunny been shooting arrows all morning , got a Hoyt ionx bow USA 2016 ???? model Got a Robin Hood one too Yes my pet wood pigeon is no more , 4 days nothing but a previous crime scene
 

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This looking around for things is turning up more items. Although I have not found my small pan primer, I did just a little bit ago find my combo tool of pan brush, vent pick and multi-head thumb screwdriver on a ring.

Yesterday, too, my wife saved me a bunch of money that I was going to spend by sending me out to get her oil changed. On the way home I stopped at a friend's motorcycle shop and he will let me use some of his tools (vise, torch, etc...) when and if I get the new Kibler Fowler. Now I don't have to buy them. :D

The Doc is out again. :cool:
 
Your lucky you jumped on the Colonial when you did because if I would have seen his post before you it would have been coming to my house, darn good price. Too good to scroll on by. I work 3rd shift so sometimes I miss out on the goodies.
sorry you missed it, but glad i didn't! the wood is stunning. i need to check when it was produced.
had to do a little on the entry pipe inlet and the side plate canted the rear lock screw just enough it wouldn't engage. had to slave away for a whole 2 minutes to fix that! sheesh so labor intensive!
now i need to finish the metal. have I ever mentioned I hate finishing metal?.
rubbed the patchbox lid down to lighten it. had some holidays in the color so redid the AF. dried and hit it with a golden oak stain. close to what i want.
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There are two routes I use to my gun club depending on traffic reports. One is 25 miles, the other 30 miles one way. This morning the traffic report was wrong. I took the 30 mile route and got hung up for about 30 minutes in traffic. When I arrived at the range the parking lot was dug up for a water line replacement. I checked it, unloaded my gear and discovered I brought the wrong box. I planned to shoot my .32 TVA Tennessee but it won't take the .50 stuff I brought. I scrounged around in another less organized box I'd brought and found patches and balls that would work. I had a bag of .310 balls I'd cast but hadn't inspected yet. I also had some .315 lead but since I didn't have a short started I loaded the .310 balls which worked without a short starter. Actually, they shot pretty well.

In addition to the .32 I brought an old Springfield Hawken .50 1:48 that I had trouble with last week, sticking cleaning patches . As recommended here I "lapped" the bore with some metal polishing, 3M type, pads. After shooting it today the sticking cleaning patches problem was gone. There is still a bit of roughness I can feel with a dry patch so I'll hit it with a few more pads.

Traffic was much better driving home.
 
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The alternatives were, buy another CVA trigger set , but Deer Creek is out. Ebay way overpriced. Then the thought of substituting an available single trigger set occurred and I spent some time on the Track site looking. Only one is sized such that it could work. Next up was a L&R DST4 that I have on hand. It appears that it would, with some trimming and filing be a good option.
I made my CVA Mountain Rifle double set trigger a single by taking the rear trigger off and drilling a new hole for the front trigger pivot pin further back:
TRIGGER MOD-1.JPG

TRIGGER MOD-2.JPG

AND TO SHOW HOW THE TRIGGER LOOKS NOW IN THE RIFLE:
TRIGGER & LOCK.JPG
 
Busy couple of days here. Lemme see...

- Got a 1000W coil hot plate for heating my casting pot,

- Received my taller rear sight and a t-shirt from Kibler,

- Put the first coat of "final color" dye on my Colonial stock (wow!!!), and

- I'm now ready to make a batch of mineral spirits cut Tung oil for my first coats (when I get to the point of applying the oil finish).

I've also been checking out possible local sources of soft lead so I can stock up. With the change here to ban lead shot, lead is disappearing from a lot of places...even fishing sinkers and dive weights here are more commonly made of other materials these days.
 
I have this old .40 cap gun made by Luther Tisdel, born in Scranton, PA in 1829 and was making rifles from 1848-1891. It was missing the rear tang sight when I bought it. I shot it a couple of times without a rear sight but before I put too much effort into making/buying a tang sight I decided to rig up a temporary sight using a piece cut out of a Lyman front sight insert and a 1/8” shaft from a Dremel tool. Cut a slot with a jeweler’s saw and stuck the sight into the slot, drop of super glue and squeezed it tight. Will take it out and see if it is accurate enough to put any effort into putting a permanent sight on it.

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Reassembled my Armi Sport 1861 Springfield after shaving and shaping the stock lock panels, comb and buttstock areas. The factory finish was almost nonexistent....so thin it just scraped off easily with a razor blade and it had ZERO penetration into the wood. They just dust on the finish and call it good. I wanted the much darker look that the good people at Lodgewood apply to their defarb'd muskets. I tried to copy the contours from pictures and the wrist area alone is a lot more comfortable now. The fish belly and bulging sides of the buttstock are mostly gone, the comb is sharper and the hump behind the tang is slimmed down. The lock panels on the stock rifle are not well-defined so I brought them out by working down the stock around them. The factory stocks have entirely too much wood on them, at least to my eyes.

Yes, the sling swivels are attached with screws and pinch nuts...the rivets both fell out long ago. I'll put in correct rivets if I can find them. I really enjoyed the job and the rifle is a lot more appealing to me now. Products used seen in last pic...Minwax red mahogany stain, transtint dark vintage maple and Tried and True varnish oil. Still needs some coats of oil.
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Busy couple of days here. Lemme see...

- Got a 1000W coil hot plate for heating my casting pot,

- Received my taller rear sight and a t-shirt from Kibler,

- Put the first coat of "final color" dye on my Colonial stock (wow!!!), and

- I'm now ready to make a batch of mineral spirits cut Tung oil for my first coats (when I get to the point of applying the oil finish).

I've also been checking out possible local sources of soft lead so I can stock up. With the change here to ban lead shot, lead is disappearing from a lot of places...even fishing sinkers and dive weights here are more commonly made of other materials these days.
I’ve been wanting a Kibler T shirt for years but I’m too cheap to buy one. But one of these days I will.
 
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