what oil to use?

[Jeff Kaufmann]

Years ago my uncle, who was an ametuer watchsmith, gave me a couple of small bottles of a "very fine oil" for watches. I think I still has have one. It's more than likely a petroleum product from Switzerland . It's a thin colored oil that looks like Transmission fluid in color and consistency. Would a fine watch oil be any good in a firearm?

I am certain that you could find a better lubricant for firearms usage than what is used in watchmaking. The temperature ranges and viscosity demands are quite different between the two. Both my grandfather and father were watchmakers for many years, so I do have experience with the oil that you mention. If I were to look for an alternative lubricant I would suggest starting with something like a chainsaw bar oil or bicycle chain oil. It is extremely weather and wear resistant with a high viscosity that is designed to bond to metal well and stay where it is put. My only concern would be the temperature resistance, provided you removed any excess from the barrel before loading and firing with a dry patch though I don't see why it wouldn't work well.

 

[Eutycus]

Thank you Jeff, I'm all for using something you already paid for. I have half a plastic bottle of chainsaw oil left over from several years ago from back when the chainsaw still worked. Sometimes when I stumbled upon it I'd wonder what to do with the leftover stuff. For some reason I never connected the dots on using Bar oil for the guns.It just never occurred to me. Sounds like a swell idea.And you think it might work?

 

[Jeff Kaufmann]

I don't know if I would use it in the barrel and bore, maybe lightly. But like I said above I am not sure what the temperature properties are and if it were to thicken it could lead to some pretty nasty fouling. That said, for use on the lock components I should think that it would work fairly well, it is an oil that is designed to deal well with some pretty extreme weather and wear after all.

 

[Eutycus]

Well I did say this was a hobby for experimenting.Not only do I have bar oil on hand I also have some leftover Transmission Fluid.

 

[Nyckname]

Well I did say this was a hobby for experimenting...

"Aw, crud...another 'learning experience'."

 

[Kansas Jake]

I use 3 in 1 oil and have for years. I also use barricade too. Both seem to work fine.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Nothing better than 3 in 1 oil.

 

[Walkingeagle]

3-1 oil doesn't work in our cold climate. Need proper cold weather gun oil, then wipe it all off up here!

 

[Eutycus]

I was under the impression that alot of gun oils were basically the same. What is added to an oil to keep it from freezing?

 

[Walkingeagle]

3-1 is not a gun oil, its a general purpose household oil. Basically same as standard 20w motor oil (which also gets thick in the cold).

 

[SDSmlf]

For a general lock lubricant after a cleaning, I spray the lock with a 5 to 1 mix of distilled water and Ballistols and then blow off the excess with compressed air. Any specific points I want to lubricate will get a drop or two Kano’s Microil. Suff is rated to -50.

In the bore I use plain old WD40 (I buy by the gallon and use a spray bottle to apply) after cleaning with water. Flood the bore with WD, hit with compressed air, dry patch, and then leave barrel pointed muzzle down for at least 48 hours. Will flush barrel with alcohol before loading for a hunt, but don’t bother if target shooting or plinking. Have never had a FTF with a clean gun because of WD40. If at hunting camp, skip the WD40, but clean with hot water that has a few drops of Ballistols in it, then flood with isopropyl alcohol while barrel is still hot. Any flash rust from hot water (typically don’t see any ) is inconsequential in my opinion during hunting season. Have been doing this since the late 1970s and all my barrels bores remain bright and rust free.

 

[Archer 756]

Motor oil all have wax., not good for protecting

 

[45man]

About anything mentioned will work. ATF and AT assembly lube are seed based. I still have a full pint of real whale oil I bought from Herters when it was still legal. I hoard it of course.
I use STP on cylinder pins of all my revolvers including BP and it keeps the cylinders running all day. I put a tad on the front and ratchets of cylinders as it seems to cushion parts.

 

[Axman]

Not about Mobil 1, but I’ve used Clenzoil for 30 years, and Rig in guns that were to be stored for a long time.

I think the most important thing is to check guns every so often to make sure what your using is doing what you want it to do.

 

[Carbon 6]

Unless the world comes to an end, automotive engine products aren't getting anywhere near my guns. Ever look inside an engine ? Ever see what motor oil does to wood ?
I don't understand the parallels people draw between the two. They make no sense to me.

 

[Coot]

Most any oil is better than no oil. Really cold climates and tinier parts will be better served by thinner oils than thicker. My preference is to use better grades of motor oil in my motors, ATF in my automatic transmissions and gun oil in my guns. For the amount used, it doesn't cost much to use oils designed for specific uses. I am a believer in the old ad which stated "you can pay me now or you can pay me later".

 

[Carbon 6]

For the amount used, it doesn't cost much to use oils designed for specific uses..

That's precisely why I buy oil designed specifically for the task at hand, and not automotive oils. My gun is a gun not a Chevy.

Glad you agree.

 

[Juice Jaws]

Lets make life hard again. I must be odd man out, I use car oil in my cars, watch oil in my watches and GUN OIL in my guns. If its not broke I don't try to fix it. I use Ballistol mix with water for cleaning and pure ballistol for wiping down the bore and wiping down the outside of the gun. Has work great for me

 

[Juice Jaws]

Beaver tail oil

Yes, but only the oil from the bottom side of the tail.

 

[Bent Sight]

Most firearm lubricant companies don't own their own oil refineries, they contract with another company to make their formula for firearm lubricant.

I have been using Mobil 1 on firearms for decades. When I finish at the range, I clean my black powder rifles with hot, soapy, water. After I thoroughly dry the bore using compressed air and clean patches, I put a light coat of Mobil 1 inside the barrel, leave the nipple off the rifle and place a piece of patch between the hammer and snail, powder drum, whatever.

Before I head to the range, I push a patch saturated with isopropyl alcohol through the bore, then follow up with clean patches. I fire two caps before loading my rifle(s) with Pyrodex and I can usually fire 25 trouble free shots without wiping the bore.

There are alot of ways to protect your firearms from rust and wear. I've used a bore scope to check the inside of my black powder rifle barrels and they look like mirrors. Find what works for you and if someone else doesn't like it, that doesn't mean you are doing it wrong.