what patch lube are you using ?

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I've always used the pre-lubed ox yoke wonder lube patches. I've been experimenting with pre-lubed oil patches, but I suspect the oil may soak into the powder if left in the barrel for a long period of time (between hunts).

I'm surprised no one else mentioned the pre-lubed patches. Am I missing something?
 
What about the wonder lube melting and soaking in the powder? The oil IMO would be better. If they are drippy wet, then yeah, its screwed one way or the other.
 
FML said:
What about the wonder lube melting and soaking in the powder?

It's a non issue.....
The patches don't and shouldn't have enough on them to matter.......And the barrel acts as a heat sink....

Besides Beeswax melts above 140 degrees.... Who the heck hunts in those temps?..... :doh:
 
true and if they are pre lubed patches, they most likely are dried out to begin with :haha: :haha:

Wonder lube/ bore butter doesnt contain beeswax, so thats why it melts so quickly. Ever see someone fill that hole in their stock with bore butter or even funnier, patches in that hole and its just oozing out all over the place at the shoot? :rotf:
 
FML said:
Wonder lube/ bore butter doesnt contain beeswax,

True enough.. :haha: ..Like and good corporation, they source the cheapest possible ingredients to pad their bottom line....


Nope! never saw anyone put it in their stock hole...
Beeswax and olive oil works great and stays put in mine......even on the hottest days......

Wonder lube/ bore butter doesnt contain beeswax, so thats why it melts so quickly.

Or the mineral oil lowers the melting point....
Do you know what the current ingredients are????
 
Little Buffalo said:
I've always used the pre-lubed ox yoke wonder lube patches. I've been experimenting with pre-lubed oil patches, but I suspect the oil may soak into the powder if left in the barrel for a long period of time (between hunts).

I'm surprised no one else mentioned the pre-lubed patches. Am I missing something?

I suppose that if they work for you, they are fine. I bought some about 20 years ago and had issues with the new to me percussion gun grouping poorly. As soon as I switched to pillow ticking cut at the muzzle, my problems went away. :hmm:

Cut at the muzzle, you get the perfect size and centered patch every time. Too, I can use my preferred lubes.

I take my micrometer along to the fabric store and get some strange looks while measuring fabric thickness. :haha:
 
I like and use windshield wash, winter grade applied liberally and then squeezed out to damp just before loading.
If your going to load for an all day hunt put a card wad under it made of milk carton waxed cardboard.
It consists of water,liquid soap and alcohol,all friendly to bore lubing and cleaning.
 
Whenever I would catch a mink trapping I would rub it all over my coat.....Mink musk, best darn Chanel No. 5 a mountain man ever had......
Mink smell good...... :grin:
 
colorado clyde said:
Whenever I would catch a mink trapping I would rub it all over my coat.....Mink musk, best darn Chanel No. 5 a mountain man ever had......
Mink smell good...... :grin:

I think you have a few fries missing from your happy meal, mink smell worse than skunks or civet cats.......robin :hmm:
 
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It's sort of relitive. Go out on a hot day and exercise hard. Cool off a bit but don't shower. Have your partner try it. Rub a card in parts of your body that have thick hair or would have thick hair there if not shaved. Sniff your partners cards.
Kinda a stinky? Now sniff your partners colone. Concentrate very hard on the smell. OMG ones just a concentrated version of the other.
 
excess650 said:
I suppose that if they work for you, they are fine. I bought some about 20 years ago and had issues with the new to me percussion gun grouping poorly. As soon as I switched to pillow ticking cut at the muzzle, my problems went away. :hmm:

Cut at the muzzle, you get the perfect size and centered patch every time. Too, I can use my preferred lubes.

I take my micrometer along to the fabric store and get some strange looks while measuring fabric thickness. :haha:

I recently switched to the ox yoke pre-lubed pillow ticking patches if for no other reason than it looks cooler. :haha:

I actually bought a yard of good ole fashioned pillow ticking, but haven't used it yet because the prospect of having to deal with lubing the patch for each shot seems like an excess amount of work and time. It seems like it might be fun at the range, but possibly costly on a hunt when a quick reload is necessary for a follow-up shot on a wounded deer.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but aside from being able to attain a more uniform fit, is there really much advantage to cutting and lubing each patch over the simplicity of pre-lubed?

Also, a general question about sight adjustment. I recently posted a thread about a marked difference in shot placement between patches pre-lubed with oil vs. patched pre-lubed with wonder lube (ox yoke). For those of you who have experimented with different lubes after your front sight post was filed down, did you find that you needed to make any further adjustment to the sights? I haven't finished sighting in my new rifle for fear that changing patch lubes may find me with a sight post that has been filed too short.
 
Rip the washed ticking into strips and cut with shears into squares. Stack the patches in a tuna can or make a custom container from tin-foil. Add a glob of lube to the top and a couple of other spots in the stack. Heat in the toaster oven on low until the patches are saturated (add more lube as needed). Can easily lube 10 or 1000 patches with minimal effort...

The pre-lubed patches from the store are usually old and under-lubed (I added more lube as above to pre-lubed patches I bought). The other issue, and a major one at that - pre-lubed, store-bought patches are very overpriced compared to those made at home.
 
BEFORE one screws with the sites and files etc. one should experiment with different charges of powder (and if a larger bore 2f vs 3f as well), different patch material, thickness and lubes. And EVEN different brands of caps. Play till you have the tightest group that gun will throw and write down the specifics. THEN site it in. Makes no difference if that tight group is 4 inches low and six inches right, just shoot for the group first.

BW only make a single change at a time in your shooting components so you know what made the group better or worse.

I suggest, strongly, you order the Dutch Schultz system ($19.99), read, re read, take to the range with you to refer to again and have fun.
 
I actually bought a yard of good ole fashioned pillow ticking, but haven't used it yet because the prospect of having to deal with lubing the patch for each shot seems like an excess amount of work and time. It seems like it might be fun at the range, but possibly costly on a hunt when a quick reload is necessary for a follow-up shot on a wounded deer.

I carry a small loading block with 3 or more pre-patched RBs. If the block thickness is about 1/2 the diameter of the ball, the patched ball is quickly and easily centered and short started.
 
been using wonder lube for about 35 years - I like the wintergreen smell. seriously now, can you imagine anybody circa 1775 (or whatever year you're living in) having this conversation? or whipping out a micrometer to select the perfect patch material?
 
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