What should I use to polish and smooth tumbler and lock pieces?

[Wncman]

Been told I need to "stone" my lock pieces, to remove any machine markings and smooth them out. Make everything work better.

"Don't take off any metal, but get them smooth as a baby's bottom."

Okay, so once I figure how to take the lock apart and put it back together, what's the best tool for this?

I really don't want to use a wet stone or whatever. Can't I just use high grit sandpaper or a metal file?

Also, when I remove the mainspring with a mainspring vice, can I take the vice off and completely remove tension on the spring?

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

 

[stank]

I polish them up with fine India stones

 

[laagamer]

So, I hate to ask this, but can anyone find a specific resource on taking apart a Traditions Deerhunter lock?

I think as long as I'm thorough, take pictures, keep everything labeled, and annoy you boys on this forum if I get stuck then I should be okay.

That being said, I'd still like a resource if one exists. I'm still searching, but if any of you run across anything it would be much appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[stank]

If it is a coil spring I have no idea. If it’s a flat spring Jim Kibler has videos on his website. Most locks are pretty much the same. You should use a spring vice and be careful with the hammer screw. They break easy. Take pictures as you disassemble so you can get it back together

 

[Byron A Rudrow]

I left some parts to be blued with a very reputable gunsmith in my area. Took two years to get my parts done! No thanks. If there is the slightest possibility that I can do it my self, I will do it. There’s so many on line resources to use.
This works for me. After many years I still use pictures to reassemble a lock. Place your lock on the glass of a copy machine to get easy pictures of the guts of your lock.
Use wet/dry sand paper in the finer grits. Wrap the paper around a popsicle stick or something similar. Put a good DVD on the player sit down and go to work! I recommend the old Daniel Boon television series. The X Files is also a good choice!

 

[longcruise]

I don't know anyone in Southern California that can do this.

One problem in this game is there are plenty of smith's who will take the job but many of them don't know any more than you do.

It's been a long time since I've had a deer hunter apart but memory says it's a simple lock with a V spring. There used to be a tutorial here on the forum.

 

[longcruise]

So, I hate to ask this, but can anyone find a specific resource on taking apart a Traditions Deerhunter lock?

The deer hunter is different in the way the trigger and trigger guard are combined. But the lock isn't unique. Here is a how to on disassembly.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/taking-apart-a-side-hammer-lock.116647/

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

I'm still seriously a bit confused why people still use bore butter or anything like it for patch lube! some guys just don't have the skill, confidence or cojones to attempt even taking the lock apart, hell there are shooters that have never seen the backside of a lock!

lol. i know im one of them guys that dont know much about tearing into a muzzleloader or caplock pistol. lol. thats why im here. look forward everyday to come here and try to learn from all of you.thank each and everyone on here that shares yaw advice and know how

 

[Treetop]

Flat block, leather and flitz metal polish.

 

[deerstalkert]

just an update on the stones i suggested to the OP. they look like good stones and i chose them because they look similar to the nubs i have been using for 40 years or so. said nubs are almost to short and edges are chipped on some of them.
i ordered the dozen from Amazon without scrolling through the entire information.

Package left the carrier facility. ShaTian,DongGuan,
i try to avoid this as much as possible, not that the products are always junk, but they usually take weeks to get here on that slow boat from China. and my weeks are in short supply.

 

[laagamer]

just an update on the stones i suggested to the OP. they look like good stones and i chose them because they look similar to the nubs i have been using for 40 years or so. said nubs are almost to short and edges are chipped on some of them.
i ordered the dozen from Amazon without scrolling through the entire information.

Package left the carrier facility. ShaTian,DongGuan,
i try to avoid this as much as possible, not that the products are always junk, but they usually take weeks to get here on that slow boat from China. and my weeks are in short supply.

Thank you! But I purchased some different (but basically the same lol) stones on Amazon!

They took about 2 days to show up!

I'm still working up the courage and waiting for the free time to try and take apart the lock!

 

[The Miner '49er]

FWIW - While I have never done with a lock what you are wanting to do, perhaps using a cartridge case tumbler with media could possibly work. You want to smooth and polish and remove very little, so you might try that beginning with one or two of the least critical parts and see how they turn out. Hopefully someone else who has done this and can report their results.

 

[FlinterNick]

Been told I need to "stone" my lock pieces, to remove any machine markings and smooth them out. Make everything work better.

"Don't take off any metal, but get them smooth as a baby's bottom."

Okay, so once I figure how to take the lock apart and put it back together, what's the best tool for this?

I really don't want to use a wet stone or whatever. Can't I just use high grit sandpaper or a metal file?

Also, when I remove the mainspring with a mainspring vice, can I take the vice off and completely remove tension on the spring?

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

Depends what you’re working with.

For a machined lock that isn’t finished, i start with small files lightly filing the surfaces. My cuts are lubricated with mineral oil

Starting with 2nd, 4th then moving up to 6 and 8 cut needle files, each higher cut removes less material. I try to use light pressure, this is especially important when filing around corners and notches.

To smooth area’s i use fine diamond files and polishing stones, again lubricating with mineral oil.

I check the parts over to ensure all file marks are removed and the surface is cleanly finished, i polish up to 600 grit.

Once i get to the desired finish, i clean the parts off in a rotary tumbler with stainless steel 1 and 2mm shot and burnishing compound, i do this for the internal parts only.

The plate, frizzen and flintcock I polish with a fine wire wheel or often called a goats hair wheel, this blends the finish giving it a nice satin look.

If I’m case hardening the parts are polished as fine as i can get them before the hardening process, up to 800 grit sometimes 1 micron.

The stones you should be using a whetstones, the come in various shapes, pretty cheap from a jewelry supply store. The ones on amazon generally stink, and break easily.

Somtmes they’re called die makers stones.

You can polish with abrasives like aluminum carbide paper, however it generally doesn’t last very long.

Pumice and rotten stone mixed with wax on a chamise cloth works well too.

 

[laagamer]

Depends what you’re working with.

For a machined lock that isn’t finished, i start with small files lightly filing the surfaces. My cuts are lubricated with mineral oil

Starting with 2nd, 4th then moving up to 6 and 8 cut needle files, each higher cut removes less material. I try to use light pressure, this is especially important when filing around corners and notches.

To smooth area’s i use fine diamond files and polishing stones, again lubricating with mineral oil.

I check the parts over to ensure all file marks are removed and the surface is cleanly finished, i polish up to 600 grit.

Once i get to the desired finish, i clean the parts off in a rotary tumbler with stainless steel 1 and 2mm shot and burnishing compound, i do this for the internal parts only.

The plate, frizzen and flintcock I polish with a fine wire wheel or often called a goats hair wheel, this blends the finish giving it a nice satin look.

If I’m case hardening the parts are polished as fine as i can get them before the hardening process, up to 800 grit sometimes 1 micron.

The stones you should be using a whetstones, the come in various shapes, pretty cheap from a jewelry supply store. The ones on amazon generally stink, and break easily.

Somtmes they’re called die makers stones.

You can polish with abrasives like aluminum carbide paper, however it generally doesn’t last very long.

Pumice and rotten stone mixed with wax on a chamise cloth works well too.

Thank you so much for the detailed post!

 

[laagamer]

FWIW - While I have never done with a lock what you are wanting to do, perhaps using a cartridge case tumbler with media could possibly work. You want to smooth and polish and remove very little, so you might try that beginning with one or two of the least critical parts and see how they turn out. Hopefully someone else who has done this and can report their results.

Very good idea! Thank you!