What to use for a powder measure?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 3, 2022
Messages
22
Reaction score
33
Location
Maine
I've got a little brass flask for dispensing powder, but what should I use to actually measure it (it's a .54 so I'd say maybe 35 grains of GOEX FFF)? Are there devices for that or should I just get a small tube and start counting.

For everyone who was following my old thread about the antique rifle I found, it's not safe to shoot. It's making a lovely wall decoration next to my Hawken reproduction that I'm shooting this weekend.

Thanks a lot, really looking forward to getting shooting!
 
you need a powder measure, any muzzleloading supplier has them.
Ah, I see. I thought I was missing a trick to my loader, I didn't figure I needed another piece of equipment. Is there any inherent danger in using any sort of tube with appropriate marking?
 
no. as long as you have a scale and can weigh the powder or how would you know where to mark it???.. it takes time to work up a load for your rifle. an adjustable powder measure is much easier to use than a scale.cheaper too. also what are you counting????
 
Most flasks have a removable nozzle that can be cut to a length that will accept powder charges.

There are several different nozzle lengths available, if the one on your flask isn't long enough.

In use, the thumb is placed to block the nozzle, with the nozzle pointed down - the valve is then activated to drop powder into the nozzle, then closed so the powder charge can be transferred into the muzzle, downbore.
 
Once you figure out the powder charge your rifle likes for accuracy, A measure can be made out of a piece of cane (bamboo) looks good, very authentic and easy to make.
 
A graduated measure is a must to develop loads. Most start with same grains as caliber. A .54 you might start at 55 grains. Shoot for groups before you move sights. Shoot 3 then increase 5 grains untill you get best group and go beyond untill the groups deteriorate then back off. Keep in mind loads listed for the rifle. Your low end you might use for plinking and the upper end for hunting. This has to be done for all different projectiles you want to use.
Mini ball typically you use 60-70 grains. Might go a tad higher depending on the pressure it takes to properly spread the skirt. Not enough and the skirt won't engage the riflings. Too much and the skirt will spread as it leaves the barrel and cause excess drag and possibly walk.
Try finding several projectiles you are interested in and test. I find it simpler to shoot a ball and one larger so I don't have but 2 to choose from.
 
If you have no volumetric measure but access to a reloading scale;
A few years back I measured different kinds of black powder and roughly it was one grain by weight gave one grain by volume. Not hard and fast, a small amount of variation. Given that most folks change charges by 5 grains or so at a time, could be close enough for government work. Measure, pour into your tube, mark and repeat.

Just an idea for a starting point. Use at your own peril. I'm sure others can advise on how to determine volume by measurements.

Measures aren't horribly expensive nor hard to find.
 
Black powder and the substitute black powders can be satisfactorily measured by volume. Since you are probably in the initial phases of developing a load. @Joshua Hopkins will be looking for a volumetric measure to start out with a 60 grain load. The load can be increased by 5 grains to evaluate the effect on on-target accuracy.

It is worthwhile to note that real black powder will measure in weight the volume grains noted on a volumetric measure. The substitute powders are to be loaded by the grains measured in a volumetric measure. Also be aware that there are tolerance variations that means that different measures will have different scale weights even if set to the same grain setting. Substitute powders are less dense than black powder, but the substitutes are designed to be measured by volume, but a 80 grain volume of Pyrodex will weigh about 72 grains on a weight scale.

Using the brass flask, pour the powder into your volumetric measure to load the charge into the muzzle.

I have a picture below of most of the volumetric measures I have in my collection. I mostly use the measure on the left side as it has an adapter to fasten to the threads on a can of powder. Adapters can be bought for the various configurations of powder containers. I've drilled out old caps to make my adapter. The differences are mostly related to the funnel or lack of funnel for ease of loading.

Measures.jpg


The two measures on the right are for measuring shot by ounces and powder by drams.
 
do not dispense powder into the muzzle from the "nozzle" on your flask. it has been done by thousands i know but it is still an invitation to disaster. God forbid, but you could have a cook off with the entire flask ruining your next foreseeable future.
always charge a measure and them dump from said measure with the flask safely away.
this measure is sold by many suppliers.
1668738257098.png
 
it's a .54 so I'd say maybe 35 grains of GOEX FFF)?
35 grains is way too light for a .54
Anyway, you have had some good advise already here, but I'll add my own 2 cents;
There are commercially available powder measures. Some are fixed at a certain amount, and others are adjustable. These are usually made of brass. Most any place that sells black powder gear will have one or more.
You will need to shoot a lot in order to find out what your particular rifle likes. For a .54 you could use either 2F or 3F real black powder. With that, I would start with 60 grains. Fire 3 -5 shots for a group. Try 50 yards, but if your groups are too large or too far off target at that range, close in to 25 yards. Use a solid bench rest. However, don't worry about being exactly on target at this stage. Just try to get all your shots grouped as tightly together as possible. Go up to 65 or 70 grains of powder and fire another group of 3-5. Keep going in these increments up to about 100 or 110 grains. You shouldn't need more than that, and those are pretty stout loads! But, there are guys who use 120 grains, or even 140 in their .54 rifles. If you like getting kicked by a mule, then go for it. Decide which load gave you the best group. There you are.
Often a rifle will have two different loads that it likes; a target load and a hunting load. Target loads are usually lighter. Hunting loads are more potent, but often not quite as accurate.
Once you've decided what load is best, stick with it while you adjust your rifle sights to get on target.
Also, many of us like to make our own custom powder measures. They are easy to make. They can be made from a stick, a wooden dowel, river cane, horn, bone, whatever. The one I currently use I made from the femur bone of a deer. Just drill a hole down through the length of whatever material you choose. Personally, I like a 3/8" diameter hole, but it doesn't matter. Pour in your preferred powder charge and make a mark slightly above the level of the powder. Pour out the powder (save it), and cut off the horn or whatever at the mark. Whalla! Drill a small hole crosswise through the other end of the material for tying on a thong. I like to varnish the outside of my homemade powder measures to help waterproof them. They could be painted, too. Use your imagination.
 
A 44 mag case is roughly 40 grs which is what I use to measure for my .32 since most locally available measures are really a bit big for such a small gun. Walmart might have an adjustable pyrex measure or if you're lucky a brass one.
 
Most flasks have a removable nozzle that can be cut to a length that will accept powder charges.

There are several different nozzle lengths available, if the one on your flask isn't long enough.

In use, the thumb is placed to block the nozzle, with the nozzle pointed down - the valve is then activated to drop powder into the nozzle, then closed so the powder charge can be transferred into the muzzle, downbore.
I don't believe it's a good idea to load a long gun directly from a flask or horn. I've never seen it happen but if a hot ember were to ignite a charge being poured down the barrel it would set off the whole flask or horn. If you check common safety rules for shooting muzzleloaders you'll find loading directly from a flask or horn is not recommended.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top