What's your recipe (moose milk)?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Guest
Now, I know this subject has been touched on quite a bit but I still would like to give and receive input on this.

My personal recipe (which has recently been modified) is as follows

1/3 Murphy's oil soap

1/3 soluble cutting oil

1/3 T/C #13 bore cleaner

Then spit in the bottle

(My original formula was 1/2 Murphy will soap and 1/2 T/C #13 bore cleaner)
 
roaddog: Love the hair dude!!!
This topic is almost as controversial as "ta swab 'er not ta swab?".
I personally like the M.A.P. otherwise known as Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol (rubbing 91%) and Peroxide( drug store variet 3% solution ). 2 parts alcohol, one Murphy's, one, peroxide. Four wet patches will completely disolve all black powder fouling.
There is a caveat to this however.
You MUST get all the MAP out as the peroxide is itself an oxidant and it WILL rust your barrel.
You must run at least two rubbing alcohol patches down bore after you use MAP, then dry patch, then oil, Bore Butter, whatever.
Ordinary rubbing alcohol has a unique property.
It absorbs water.
It will cut the soap and peroxide out of the lands and grooves and after you dry patch you are ready to oil or whatever you do to prevent rust when the arm is stored.
I always alcohol wipe the barrel before I get rady to shoot, following once again with a dry patch.
Be advised MANY people will not use MAP at all because the peroxide is an oxidizer. Birddog6 won't use it and warns against it.
I have never had a problem and have used it for 3 years., but I see why people shy away from it.
I personally feel T/C bore cleaner a waste of money when there are so many formulas that work well such as Simple Green and water, vinegar ( an acid) and water, soap and water, plain cold water, etc. etc.
I fired my blue steel Pietta .44 18 rounds with black 3fg, sprayed it with RemOil and let her set for 3 weeks inspecting daily for corrosion. Weren't none. I finally cleaned the thing properly and concluded that you could spray your gun down and not clean it for several days at least with no rust forming.
No I would NOT do that to my custom flinters!
 
Over many years of shooting and cleaning muzzleloaders I have tried most everything in the way of cleaners. So far the best I have found is Windex, the plain original formula. Have yet to see anything come close to it.
 
I think milkin moose is more a technique than a recipe, but here's mine anywho.
1.) Find sleeping moose.
2.) Find/form a container to catch the milk. (Buddies boot, buddies hat, buddies tobacco tin, etc).
3.) Reach up from behind moose and verify it is a female. THIS IS IMPORTANT. This is worth putting on your spectacles if necessary.
4.) Begin milking - being careful not to wake moose.
5.) If moose wakes, do not panic. Moose have notoriously poor eyesight. Drop onto all fours and begin "mooing."
6.) If moose is a female she will ignore you, or at worse lick you behind the ears, which you probably needed anyway.
7.) If you skipped step 3 and it is a male, discard the container and prepare for two choices:
A.) Increase grip and try to reason with the beast while avoiding the hoofs and antlers. (This requires a very strong grip).
B.) Release grip and try to out-crawl the aroused bull moose.

In either case - enjoy the ride.

8.) Return to camp and begin sewing up seat of pants and shopping for store-bought moose milk.


I make a general-purpose Windex type cleaner as follows:

5 cups water
1 cup alcohol (stove alcohol)
1/2 cup ammonia (Parson's Sudsy)
2 tsp detergent (All)

I use gallons of this stuff to clean the castor oil and fuel residue off radio controlled airplanes. It is also good for spraying onto glass, metal, fiberglass, plastic when applying decals (or boat numbers/names/graphics) to allow all air bubbles to be squeegied out for a perfect attachment.
 
I'm with you Wick, even though I sell the commercial cleaners, I tell my customers that windex is the best.
Re the Moose milk. Soluble oil and water is Moose milk, anything else is Moose milk +. :winking:
 
Hey Maxi,

I'm with you Bob Walden my gunstocker got me started out on Murphys Oil Soap, Rubbin' Alcohol, and Hydrogen Peroxide in equal parts.

You're right about getting it all out though I made that mistake once for a couple hours. Then when I lubed her up I couldn't believe it. The barrel had a light film of rust in her never did that again!

Keep Yer Powder Dry Fellers,
"The Chuckster" ::
 

Latest posts

Back
Top