Wheellock Project

[Henry Elwood]

I started this in January. I had previously made two Wheellocks from TRS back in the '90s. The Graz Book from a couple years ago got me going again. Not really knowing how things exactly interacted with each part I started by making a mock-up in wood. This proved to be helpful when I made my Brace of Miquelets. This took about 2 months. Then started in Metal. Mostly I used Hot Roll Steel except for the Springs. This has been a fun journey, almost 10months. I hope the pics come through

 

[Henry Elwood]

I started this in January. I had previously made two Wheellocks from TRS back in the '90s. The Graz Book from a couple years ago got me going again. Not really knowing how things exactly interacted with each part I started by making a mock-up in wood. This proved to be helpful when I made my Brace of Miquelets. This took about 2 months. Then started in Metal. Mostly I used Hot Roll Steel except for the Springs. This has been a fun journey, almost 10months. I hope the pics come through View attachment 262084View attachment 262085View attachment 262086View attachment 262087View attachment 262088View attachment 262089View attachment 262090View attachment 262091View attachment 262092View attachment 262093

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Good start on a very interesting project! Make sure you keep us posted with later, and finished photos.
Larry

 

[Sam squanch]

Get ready for a bunch of “ can you build ME one???” Requests…

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Wicked awesome! LOVE them!

 

[PhDBrewer]

Great job!
Looks like you have it figured out.
Please keep us posted.
William

 

[PathfinderNC]

You’re amazing!

 

[Henry Elwood]

Thank you Gentlemen, there really aren't many folks that understand these locks. I will post the progress.
Thanks, Hank

 

[tom in nc]

Thank you Gentlemen, there really aren't many folks that understand these locks. I will post the progress.
Thanks, Hank

Please do! I will be watching!

 

[Pukka Bundook]

You continue to do great work Hank!
This is a fantastic job!!
Met you at WKU back in 2003..

 

[Henry Elwood]

You continue to do great work Hank!
This is a fantastic job!!
Met you at WKU back in 2003..

Greetings,
I'm glad I have kept my student lists and seating chart. You were between Keith Grien and Jack Burkhardt in Ron's Class. It's been a long time. We learned how to make the Rolled Edge at the front and back of the Pipes that I later used to make the Pipes for the Lukens Air Rifles, not to mention other things that my notes remind me of. It's fun to touch base didn't recognize your online name Pukka Bundook. Later,Hank

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Hank,
Its the only time I have been to The States, and had a whale of a time!
Everyone I met was fantastic, Ron allowing me to stay with him prior to class It was a lifetime experience.

I remember you well, and how good your work was!
All the best,
Richard.

 

[tom in nc]

Time for an update! That plate is an amazing work of art alone! More, more, more!

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
Tom, not sure exactly what you'd like to see. More of the early process? Since I finished the Locks I've started Stocking but thus far only have the Barrels inlet not real exciting. Hank

 

[tom in nc]

I want to see every step that you care to share!

 

[Henry Elwood]

I want to see every step that you care to share!

Greetings,
Hope this is what you'd like to see. The first pic are starting materials, Claro Walnut and 3/16"--.1875" Hot Roll. Marked it out with DYKEM then took it to the Metal Bandsaw. The thing when you're making a matched Brace is Symmetry so the Plates are Filed together at the same time. Then started on the Pans. The best way I could figure out was to Drill the Pan then used the Mill to take it down then to the Files. I've never had real Shop Training so I'm not real comfortable with my Mill or Lathe I just mess with it until I get something close.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Awesome work Henry! Excellent layout to fashion those pans! Are you going to use the wheel itself to finish cut the slot in the pan?

For your bandsaw photo - hopefully you had moved the roller guides UP for just taking picture, as for when cutting they should be down low, right over the work.

 

[Henry Elwood]

Awesome work Henry! Excellent layout to fashion those pans! Are you going to use the wheel itself to finish cut the slot in the pan?

For your bandsaw photo - hopefully you had moved the roller guides UP for just taking picture, as for when cutting they should be down low, right over the work.

Greetings,
First, the process I'm using should be considered more of a dairy of how I did this not a how to. This 3" 3 Ring Binder are Notes and Photos of what I did including Mistakes. For me it's as important to know why/how it didn't work as that something work on first try. You have to be willing to start over until it works. If you see things that might help others in the future not to make mistakes feel free to comment. The Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw is not a righteous Bandsaw and the Rollers only come down about 2 1/2"- 3" so in the photo that's just what I had to work with. Later I will be showing how I cut the Grooves in the bottom of the Pan with a Knife Edge Rotary File. Your Technique of using the Wheel to grind the grooves sounds like a Great Idea. You had not yet written about it before I did my Technique. I must say it sounds good. I used lapping compound to fit the Tapered Breech Block on the Girardoni I made. It was my opinion that to get an Air Tight Fit it should be Tapered and Tight. When Robert Beeman cam back with his original he took it to a machinist and found it was in fact Tapered. He asked me how I knew? I said when you make things you look at things differently. So I knew about gringing/fitting pieces together but just hadn't applied it. It's what happens when you work by yourself. I'll try to post more later today.
Hank

Awesome work Henry! Excellent layout to fashion those pans! Are you going to use the wheel itself to finish cut the slot in the pan?

For your bandsaw photo - hopefully you had moved the roller guides UP for just taking picture, as for when cutting they should be down low, right over the work.

Greetings,
Thanks for thoughts. First I'd like to say that these are like diary 3" 3 Ring Binder notes to remember me of what I did for future projects. I put in them things that worked and ones that didn't. For me knowing what didn't work is just as important. And no I couldn't bring the Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw rollers any closer, I know it's better but this is what I have. And your Technique of Grinding the 2 pieces together is sound. I had already figured out my technique of free hand cutting/grinding with a Knife Edge diamond rotary File before you had written yours. But I do like your Technique, I used a similar technique when I made the Girardonis to make the Breech Block tapered and Air Tight.

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
First, the process I'm using should be considered more of a dairy of how I did this not a how to. This 3" 3 Ring Binder are Notes and Photos of what I did including Mistakes. For me it's as important to know why/how it didn't work as that something work on first try. You have to be willing to start over until it works. If you see things that might help others in the future not to make mistakes feel free to comment. The Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw is not a righteous Bandsaw and the Rollers only come down about 2 1/2"- 3" so in the photo that's just what I had to work with. Later I will be showing how I cut the Grooves in the bottom of the Pan with a Knife Edge Rotary File. Your Technique of using the Wheel to grind the grooves sounds like a Great Idea. You had not yet written about it before I did my Technique. I must say it sounds good. I used lapping compound to fit the Tapered Breech Block on the Girardoni I made. It was my opinion that to get an Air Tight Fit it should be Tapered and Tight. When Robert Beeman cam back with his original he took it to a machinist and found it was in fact Tapered. He asked me how I knew? I said when you make things you look at things differently. So I knew about gringing/fitting pieces together but just hadn't applied it. It's what happens when you work by yourself. I'll try to post more later today.
Hank

Greetings,
Thanks for thoughts. First I'd like to say that these are like diary 3" 3 Ring Binder notes to remember me of what I did for future projects. I put in them things that worked and ones that didn't. For me knowing what didn't work is just as important. And no I couldn't bring the Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw rollers any closer, I know it's better but this is what I have. And your Technique of Grinding the 2 pieces together is sound. I had already figured out my technique of free hand cutting/grinding with a Knife Edge diamond rotary File before you had written yours. But I do like your Technique, I used a similar technique when I made the Girardonis to make the Breech Block tapered and Air Tight.

Greetings,
When I started setting the pan I knew how Flintlocks worked and had done seperate pans before. I tried a forward double bevel but that didn't work. What I found was to put a bevel on the back side of the pan under the Fence. This worked much better. Then I went to the Tumblers. I laid them out and cut. My plan was to use the Tumbler Mill I had made. But it didn't work very good. It bit into the Hot Roll and wanted to twist the metal. Frankly I had forgotten what Gary Brumfield had said, that it is more of a Finishing tool than gross fabrication. So then needed to made a plan "B". I went to the Lathe to see if I could figure that out. Hank

Greetings,
First, the process I'm using should be considered more of a dairy of how I did this not a how to. This 3" 3 Ring Binder are Notes and Photos of what I did including Mistakes. For me it's as important to know why/how it didn't work as that something work on first try. You have to be willing to start over until it works. If you see things that might help others in the future not to make mistakes feel free to comment. The Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw is not a righteous Bandsaw and the Rollers only come down about 2 1/2"- 3" so in the photo that's just what I had to work with. Later I will be showing how I cut the Grooves in the bottom of the Pan with a Knife Edge Rotary File. Your Technique of using the Wheel to grind the grooves sounds like a Great Idea. You had not yet written about it before I did my Technique. I must say it sounds good. I used lapping compound to fit the Tapered Breech Block on the Girardoni I made. It was my opinion that to get an Air Tight Fit it should be Tapered and Tight. When Robert Beeman cam back with his original he took it to a machinist and found it was in fact Tapered. He asked me how I knew? I said when you make things you look at things differently. So I knew about gringing/fitting pieces together but just hadn't applied it. It's what happens when you work by yourself. I'll try to post more later today.
Hank

Greetings,
Thanks for thoughts. First I'd like to say that these are like diary 3" 3 Ring Binder notes to remember me of what I did for future projects. I put in them things that worked and ones that didn't. For me knowing what didn't work is just as important. And no I couldn't bring the Metal Bandsaw/Hacksaw rollers any closer, I know it's better but this is what I have. And your Technique of Grinding the 2 pieces together is sound. I had already figured out my technique of free hand cutting/grinding with a Knife Edge diamond rotary File before you had written yours. But I do like your Technique, I used a similar technique when I made the Girardonis to make the Breech Block tapered and Air Tight.

Greetings,
Next started to make the Tumbler. Cut it out then filed the Shaft a bit thinking I would use my Tumbler Mill to make it but found that it was too aggressive. Then remembered that Gary Brumfield said it was/should be used for finish work. Not working, started thinking about a plan "B". I went to the Lathe to figure out how that might work. Turned out pretty good. And since I was at the Lathe figured it was time for the Wheels. Had to figure out the Parting Tool. I knew in theory what needed to happen but again never did. I got the Wheels cut off but I don't think it was in good order. I hadent put the grooves in the Wheels. Next Post.
Thanks, Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
When I started setting the pan I knew how Flintlocks worked and had done seperate pans before. I tried a forward double bevel but that didn't work. What I found was to put a bevel on the back side of the pan under the Fence. This worked much better. Then I went to the Tumblers. I laid them out and cut. My plan was to use the Tumbler Mill I had made. But it didn't work very good. It bit into the Hot Roll and wanted to twist the metal. Frankly I had forgotten what Gary Brumfield had said, that it is more of a Finishing tool than gross fabrication. So then needed to made a plan "B". I went to the Lathe to see if I could figure that out. Hank

Greetings,
Next started to make the Tumbler. Cut it out then filed the Shaft a bit thinking I would use my Tumbler Mill to make it but found that it was too aggressive. Then remembered that Gary Brumfield said it was/should be used for finish work. Not working, started thinking about a plan "B". I went to the Lathe to figure out how that might work. Turned out pretty good. And since I was at the Lathe figured it was time for the Wheels. Had to figure out the Parting Tool. I knew in theory what needed to happen but again never did. I got the Wheels cut off but I don't think it was in good order. I hadent put the grooves in the Wheels. Next Post.
Thanks, Hank

Greetings,
Sorry don't have the Posting Technique down. These are the pics for part of the last Post. Also the last pic shows a mathematical formula to calculate the measurement of the Square Hole in the Center of the Wheel.
Thanks, Hank