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Salty_Possum

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sean138 said:
Hello, try here.

Link

Sean

Thanks Sean, that looks like what I'm looking for. I wonder how period correct the fact that its made of copper though, but still looks like a good buy :grin:
 
Sorry for a little bit of a highjack but....

I think the shot maker shown on the link you posted is a neat little gadget.
Might have to try making a version of it just to see how it works.
 
I think they tell in most of the descriptions what the source is or if it is an interpretation. I noticed that most of the copperware and tin canteen that Townsend and Sons offers is made by this guy. I will be buying some stuff here to see what the quality is like but the pictures make it look very good.
Sean
 
I can personally testify that Master Peter Goebel makes high quality stuff. I have a copper canteen, a Rupert Shot-Maker, a medium sized copper pot, a tobacco box, a tin soldier's kettle, and one of those flasks, and no complaints at all. He tells the customer up front if an item is inspired, meaning he uses authentic techniques but the item is his own idea or variation, and documentary, meaning he copied an item from an original artifact.

You will also note on the website under "about us" he describes himself as a "journeyman", not as a "smith", but I think from viewing lots of his products he could call himself a redsmith, copper smith, whitesmith, or tinsmith and not be thought of as boasting.

The advantage of a copper flask over a wooden one is that the wooden ones tend to be thin and more fragile. Not so with the copper.

LD
 
Thanks for the review. I didn't know anyone that had any experience with these products. They photograph very well so I imagine they look good in person. I really want his tin canteen to replace the stainless one I've got.
Sean
 
Randy Johnson said:
Sorry for a little bit of a highjack but....

I think the shot maker shown on the link you posted is a neat little gadget.
Might have to try making a version of it just to see how it works.

I started such a project. I have heavy brass bowl, already drilled for the drips, just need to add the hanger chains and decide how best to hang it.

There are those who suggest automotive coolant in the catch bucket. Just remember to rinse and dry after. Might even be a good idea to tumble with bullet lube?
 
Finely powdered graphite works better,not as gummy or sticky and a little bit goes a long way.But then it will turn your hands black if you handle the shot much.Liquid Alox?Anyone with a suggestion they've tried?
 
Claypipe said:
Randy Johnson said:
Sorry for a little bit of a highjack but....

I think the shot maker shown on the link you posted is a neat little gadget.
Might have to try making a version of it just to see how it works.

I started such a project. I have heavy brass bowl, already drilled for the drips, just need to add the hanger chains and decide how best to hang it.

There are those who suggest automotive coolant in the catch bucket. Just remember to rinse and dry after. Might even be a good idea to tumble with bullet lube?

My thought was a stainless steel bowl, (average garage sale price, a buck or two) and a disc of 3/4 plywood with a hole for the bowl, big enough to cover the top of a five gallon bucket.
I have a friend who owns a Littleton shot maker, and I think he uses cooking oil for the lead to drop in. I can probably scrounge used cooking oil from the nursing home where I used to work.
I'd hate to sink to much money in an experiment.
 
Just in case you haven't seen a full description of the Rupert shot-making process:
- The lead needs some alloying to increase the surface tension to get reasonably round pellets. Some arsenic compound was traditionally used, but I read somewhere that antimony does this too, so I'd think that clip-on wheel weights might be a decent source metal.
- The basin is filled with glowing coals to keep it and the lead hot.
- The temperature that you melt the lead at and the pouring rate both are reported to affect the quality of the shot.

The drop into the coolant was quite short, and my impression from discussions about making shot with the Littleton & similar is that the initial cooling rate, coolant (not)boiling on contact, and coolant viscosity can also be significant in how round the pellets come out. Dropping into oil or a thick layer of oil over water seem worth trying. I've also heard discussion about coolant temperature affecting the shot (affects both cooling rate and viscosity). I've thought that if I were going to try the oil-over-water coolant, a big old metal coffee pot with a spout that starts near the bottom would let the water overflow while keeping the oil layer constant. Set this in a wider pail or basin partly full of water would both catch the overflow and help keep the coffee-pot and coolant from heating too fast.

As you can tell, I never accumulated enough round tuits to try any of this. Good luck with it. I'm looking forward to hearing what you find out.

Regards,
Joel
 
There's valuable food for thought in your post, Joel. Thanks. I've been looking at the process and wondering about variables.

I have a bunch (actually over a ton) of lead recovered from an indoor pistol range. From what I can tell about the alloy by its casting behavior, it does in fact have a bit of antimony in it along with some tin. Might be a good source of lightly alloyed lead for anyone who feels they need it.
 
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