White Blue or Brown?

[Mainer]

This is a two part question.

First, I have a Caywood Wilson Chiefs Trade Gun that is supposed to be a replica of a 1740 trade gun. I built it myself from a kit and Caywood told me that according to their research the originals were blued. However, some research I've done since as well as some posts here would suggest that these "earlier" guns were most likely left white or browned. Who's right? :hmm:

Second question. Without doing my part to research first I went ahead and blued the barrel and lock. If this is wrong how can I return the gun to white. Some of the blueing has already worn off around the lock from shooting so I shouldn't think it would be too hard but I want to do it right.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Rat]

If you use a fine steel wool and oil and work your cold-blue job over very carefully you'll get a nice grey patina look, as if the unfinished steel has naturally aged from use. A real nice "gun metal grey". Once you get it there, it will stay there, and then continue to age more naturally. Handle the steel/gun a lot too, and don't worry aabout keeping the steel well-oiled unless you are going out in the wet weather. Again it will age very nicely.

I "aged" my Brown Bess and my 1861 Springfield that way, as they were both too bright in the white to take hunting, works great. My 1861 especially looked like it was chrome or stainless steel!! Now they both look more/very "natural".

Good luck.

Rat

 

[Rebel]

If you want to remove the blue easily try Birchwood Caseys Blue and Rust remover. Works great.

 

[tg]

The earliest mention of browning barrels would likely be in the 1770's earlier guns would be natural with a patina as age and care dictated or fireblued.

Naval jelly will remove the blue and leave a color you may like...kinda grey/aged look if living history is your thing and you are doing a F&i or Rev War persona kep in mind that a circa 1740 gun might not look fresh of the rack so to speak, many frown on aging guns but the above example justifies the practice if time period of gun manufacture and time period of persona are a number of years apart.

 

[swank]

Mainer-
As an aside, how do you like the Wilson? I am planing on building that kit, and wondered how much work it was? Of the few that I have talked to who have them, the feedback has been nothing but positive. Just curious,

Thanks- Swank

 

[Mainer]

Swank. I guess it all depends on how much experience and patience you have. I suppose like everything else, the more you do the easier it gets. I am what I would consider a better than average woodworker but the kit is pretty labor intensive and tricky in spots. I had a particularly hard time assembling the lock. If I had to do it again I would spend the extra money and either buy it finished or assembled in the white.

But that aside, the folks at Caywood were excellant to deal with, especially Danny who I'm convinced is a saint after dealing with me. Whenever I had a question all I had to do was call and Danny walked me through it on the phone. As I said, I had trouble assembling the lock and in fact broke a piece and sent it back and they fixed and assembled it for me.

As for accuracy and such I'm afraid to say that I haven't had a whole lot of time to do a lot of shooting. However, last fall, after reading a post on this site about "instinctive shooting", that is without using your sights, I tried it and found it to be even more accurate than when I used the front sight. I don't think I'd win any matches with it but any deer within 50 yards would be in mortal danger. I also did some testing with shot for squirrels and found it patterned very well, especially with the "turkey load" on the Caywood website, which used cornmeal for a buffer.

So to answer your question. Caywood excellant to deal with and I'd suggest in the white or finished. But I don't regret buying it and would probably buy another Caywood product. :imo:

 

[Mainer]

Tg and Rat- thanks! I took both of your advice and used the Naval Jelly followed with 0000 steel wool and the results are fantastic! Just what I was looking for. Thanks again. :thanks:

 

[Java Man]

Pics please.

 

[tg]

Glad you found the look you like, Naval Jelly is an acid so a rinse with washing soda /baking soda may be a good idea then oil after dry.

 

[Mainer]

Thanks tg, I didn't do the rinse but will. Java Man as soon as I'm finished I'll be sure to post a picture, if I can figure out how to do it.

 

[musketman]

Thanks tg, I didn't do the rinse but will. Java Man as soon as I'm finished I'll be sure to post a picture, if I can figure out how to do it.

If you can't figure out how to post the pictures, send them to my email address (found in my profile) and I'll post them for you...

 

[Mainer]

Thanks Musketman, will do. I'm just waiting for my stain to arrive in the mail to finish the stock. As soon as it's done I'll give it the ol' college try or send you the pics. Thanks.