White Lightnin' touch hole liner, barrel rust

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Joined
Mar 10, 2024
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Location
Middleport, NY
I just drilled and tapped my 50 caliber Rice barrel for a White Lightnin' touch hole liner and have 2 questions:
- How tight should the vent liner be torqued in the barrel?
- The vent liner hole diameter is 0.046" as received. The books I have suggest something closer to 0.062 (1/16). Should I open the hole up or leave as is?

I am a very slow builder and didn't touch the project over the summer. When I leave the barrel in the inletted stock for extended periods the barrel is rusting where it is in contact with the unfinished wood. I tried using paste wax on the barrel but that didn't seem to help. Since the wood is bare I didn't want to put anything on that would affect staining and finishing. My shop has a dehumidifier set to 60% and nothing else rusts. I purchased the red maple KD stock blank from a reputable dealer and have had it in the shop for over a year. The picture was taken after a light abrasive cleaning. Any suggestions?

Thanks

IMG_3409.jpg
 
Your stock was not dry enough. I had one blank that was not dry at ALL. I just put it up for a few years…..
 
Interesting. I have never drilled, or enlarged the branded White Lightning liners, leaving the factory provided hole. They’ve always worked great as is. Maybe I missed the last sentence of the install instructions????
 
Interesting. I have never drilled, or enlarged the branded White Lightning liners, leaving the factory provided hole. They’ve always worked great as is. Maybe I missed the last sentence of the install instructions????
I have found that I may need to enlarge touch hole diameter based on barrel wall thickness. What works perfectly on a .40 or .50 caliber barrel may need to be opened up a bit on an 1 1/8" .54 swamped barrel.
 
I did check the moisture content when I received the stock over a year ago. I recall that it was about 12% which is high for KD, but not too far off from the equilibrium content for the Northeast summers. I just checked it again with my Wagner L609 and got 9 - 11%
 
I did check the moisture content when I received the stock over a year ago. I recall that it was about 12% which is high for KD, but not too far off from the equilibrium content for the Northeast summers. I just checked it again with my Wagner L609 and got 9 - 11%
In my shop I make a lot of jewlry boxes for gifts. I like the moisture content of the wood to be 6%. A stock will work well at 6% I would think? 11% is way to high for me?
 
If I'm going to use 2f then 1/16 if 3f a bit smaller, that way your powder don't roll into the pan. Think your about right on the moisture content, wood does equalize to where it's stored. Ny would be higher then say Az.
 
I just drilled and tapped my 50 caliber Rice barrel for a White Lightnin' touch hole liner and have 2 questions:
- How tight should the vent liner be torqued in the barrel?
- The vent liner hole diameter is 0.046" as received. The books I have suggest something closer to 0.062 (1/16). Should I open the hole up or leave as is?

I am a very slow builder and didn't touch the project over the summer. When I leave the barrel in the inletted stock for extended periods the barrel is rusting where it is in contact with the unfinished wood. I tried using paste wax on the barrel but that didn't seem to help. Since the wood is bare I didn't want to put anything on that would affect staining and finishing. My shop has a dehumidifier set to 60% and nothing else rusts. I purchased the red maple KD stock blank from a reputable dealer and have had it in the shop for over a year. The picture was taken after a light abrasive cleaning. Any suggestions?

Thanks

View attachment 368422
The liner should be snug. I use a baby pipe wrench it’s like 6 inches or less long. My guess only developed 5 foot pounds of torque. Only used my finger tips on the wrench. I don’t fuss at all about the exterior of the barrel during construction. You going to draw file polish, or blue, or brown anyway when the gun is nearly complete. Just keep the bore oiled. BJH
 
The vents don't need torqued in. Just finger tight with a turn screw, not forced. IF it's a vent with a slot that will remain after drawfiling, the slot needs to lined up with the top of the pan. If it intersects the pan, it will cause gas cutting. If one needs to go in a bit more to get it aligned, I set the turn screw into the slot, and gently tap the handle end with a soft mallet while controlling the turn with my off hand, an impact hammer in practice.
I've built guns for over 40 years, and never drilled the vent larger on any of the guns. All have fired as expected. Enlarged vents lead to inaccuracy.
 

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