Why do most of the factory guns use the patent breech design ? Seems like extra steps needed to produce a part compared to a flat faced plug. Is there some benefit to this design ? Just curious. -Thanks
It is supposed to give you better ignition because the smaller chamber ignites from the side as in a normal breech, but the flash from that lights the very center of the main charge instead of the side of it, supposedly given a better balanced burn with more even pressure.
This is sort of like the old Honda CVCC (Convex Vortex Combustion Chamber) engines in the 70's where a smaller combustion chamber exited into the main cylinder chamber. A rich fuel mix would be ignited in the small chamber forcing a really hot flash into the main part of the cylinder which had a much leaner mixture in it. Result was a much more complete burn yielding better performance, gas mileage, and less pollution without the need for a catalytic converter. So that Patent Breech was also supposed to give a more complete and even burn with better performance from your rifle.
But there are real problems with that breech that you don't experience with a flat back wall in a regular breech. I have two longrifles. One is the Traditions Pennsylvania Longrifle, which has a Patent-breech style of breech, and the other is an Early Lancaster with the "normal" breech. With a normal breech if you get a flash in the pan, the first thing you do is pick the vent and then it usually fires just fine on the next try.
With a patent breech or at least that style of breech, if you are really lucky, that might also work. HOWEVER if some crud from your previous shot or perhaps from some sloppy cleaning the last time you fired it got into the channel coming into the main chamber, you're done shooting until you clean your rifle. "Wait a minute. Don't shoot at me. I have a clogged patent-breech and I have to clear it before my rifle will fire again."
Of course we don't actually have lines of people trying to kill us from across the field now days, but if you are hunting and you have a flash in the pan, how long do you think you're quarry is going to stand there and be a target for you? Usually that "perfect shot" is a fleeting experience and you can thank Henry Nock for your rifle's temperamental performance.
If you're in a reenactment and your rifle or musket fails to fire 3-times in a row, you are expected to become a casualty on the next enemy volley. Down on the ground you go and that's the last you'll fire your rifle today. "Maybe if I clean it really well, I won't have that problem tomorrow." Actually, YES, maybe if you clean it really well you won't have the problem next time.
I found that cleaning my Traditions with "hydraulic pressure" made the biggest difference in reliability with the Patent Breech style of breech. You don't need any special equipment to do this. What I do is remove my lock and then pour about 2" to 4" of MAP down the barrel using a toothpick or twig in the vent to keep it from running out. I then stand it up against a tree so the breech soaks in the MAP while I clean the lock. You can use regular old water if you'd like, it works just fine.
After cleaning and oiling the lock but before mounting it back onto stock, I will wet a patch and start pushing it leisurely down the barrel of my rifle. You will start to feel resistance as your patch contacts liquid. I'll push it a little bit more to get a little more resistance and then quickly reach down and remove the toothpick or twig from the vent and ram the ramrod down the rest of the way vigorously. This will shoot about a 6-foot long stream of black gunk out of your firelock. Be careful where you point the vent because that black gunk really stains (I still have a stain on a corner of my tent from about 2004).
I'll typically run two more wet patches down or maybe three before the patches really come back clean. Then I'll run a dry patch down followed by an oiled patch (dampened with oil but not dripping). Finally I'll re-attach the lock and wipe a little oil on the outside of the barrel. I actually use that same method with my regular breech rifle too just because it just cleans really well. But it makes a big difference in performance with the Patent Breech-style rifles.
My Traditions rifle with it's patent-style breech is also pretty particular on how I load the pan to get it to work reliably. The lock on it is a small lock, commonly found on pistols. The pan is situated well with the vent centered over the pan, half in and half out of the pan. To get it to fire reliably I need to fill it only half full, close the pan, and then give a quick flick of the wrist to the right. If you open the pan at this point you will see the powder is banked against the outside wall of the pan with an empty space between the powder and the vent hole. When loaded this way, a misfire is a very rare thing. It will quite reliably fire.
Now my Early Lancaster rifle uses a Queen Anne lock by L&R. It is a much larger lock and it doesn't care if I fill it partly full, bank it to the right or left, fill it full up or have excess powder fall out of the pan when I close the frizzen. It just always goes off!. Of course, it's a much bigger lock with a much larger pan, but it also has a much shorter path to the main charge. Personally, I prefer the simpler breech. I'm sure the smaller lock on the Traditions rifle contributes a lot to its temperamentality.