Will this work for a barrel dunk reservoir ?

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In the near future I need to have a tank/reservoir to submerge a barrel rinse. The solution will be boiling water. I feel comfortable using aluminum rain gutter, but not sure of the ends. Can't solder those ends, and so the question: What can be used to seal the ends, so I can place the gutter filled with water on a camp propane cook stove? Is it even possible, or just another dumb idea? I am thinking good old caulk would work provided the flame heat is not directly on the the ends.
Thanks
Larry
 
Silicone caulk and a few screws may work. There is a low temp aluminum welding rod thats used with a propane torch that would work for sure. I think that tractor supply has them.
My skills with welding are with thicker metals, and limited. Aluminum gutter is almost see through thickness. I doubt it would work as the gutter would also melt with the rod. I could be wrong, but that does not seem to be the way to go at this time.
Thanks
 
A section PVC pipe with an end-cap glued on one end works great. Diameter and length is up to you. Remember old Archimedes and plan for the water that the barrel will displace....don't ask me how I know about this.:doh:

.40
 
A section PVC pipe with an end-cap glued on one end works great. Diameter and length is up to you. Remember old Archimedes and plan for the water that the barrel will displace....don't ask me how I know about this.:doh:

.40
I don't think PVC pipe can be heated on a camp stove as the OP indicated.
 
Years ago when I browned a barrel I used the water reservoir for getting wall paper wet for application. plastic tub about 3 or 4 ft. long, 6 or so inches deep and 6 inches wide. cheap and disposable if so desired. Plugged the barrel with a tapered dowel and a round toothpick in the nipple. Worked well.;
 
Silicone caulk and a few screws may work. There is a low temp aluminum welding rod thats used with a propane torch that would work for sure. I think that tractor supply has them.
I've soldered aluminum before. That stuff is an aluminum silicon alloy with a melting point less than 100 degrees below aluminum. There's no way you're soldering something that thin. Also the propane stove will melt right through something that thin if you're not careful. You would probably be better off making something out of thin sheet steel.
 
A tank made out of ordinary paper would work. I've boild water on a hot plate using just a "pot" made out of folded notebook paper. If it gets hot enough to burn, it only burns down to the waterline.
 
My skills with welding are with thicker metals, and limited. Aluminum gutter is almost see through thickness. I doubt it would work as the gutter would also melt with the rod. I could be wrong, but that does not seem to be the way to go at this time.
Thanks

The low temp aluminum rod will work. I've used it on a row boat with good results. Look it up. They fill a hole in a soda can with it in the ad.
 
I used to do rust blueing. This requires boiling the rusted parts, not just pouring boiling water over them. The only tank that would give good results was one made of plain steel. Not stainless, or anything else. The instructions from brownels states that.
 
I have slow rust blued several shotgun barrels. I use a stainless steel tank made for that purpose and it works fine. I have used Brownells solution several times in the stainless tank with zero issues. And as stated, for a proper (key word proper) rust bluing (if you want actual blue or blackish color) you have to have the barrels submerged in boiling water for a length of time. I usually do 15 to 20 minutes. I have tried just pouring boiling water over parts and steaming but it does not work well in my opinion if you want a deep blue on a complete barrel.
 
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