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Wooden ramrods?

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There has been at least one reference above to a "split" Hickory Ramrod,without explaining what a " Split" is.

When a green ( freshly cut) Hickory log is split, with wedges, the "SPLIT" follows the grain, and does not break across it. If there is a curve in the grain of the tree trunk, you get a curved "split". Contrary, when a log is Sawed into smaller lengths, the saw cuts straight across grain lines, leaving "run-out."

Split hickory logs were used for fencing, and for the handles on all farm tools, including rakes, shovels, and hoes. They were valued for their strength, flexibility, and long life. It was only natural to use SPLITS from hickory logs to make ramrods, as those same qualities were needed for this kind of work.Because of its dense grain structure, Hickory can withstand compression and stretching forces along the length of its grain, better than many other woods. Its lighter weight makes it a better choice of wood for handles, and thin ramrods, where heavy work is needed by light weight is also desired. Some Major League Baseball players used to have their bats made out of Hickory, but I believe that modern rules now require that the bats be made of Ash.

The nice thing about "splits" is that you can straighten curves by using Heat, and rubbing the round side to straighten it. Once straightened, it remains straightened unless you get it soaking wet again. Then, it might resume its former shape. But, you can re-straighten the stick the same way you straightened it before. This can NOT usually* be done with a cut, or turned stick, showing grain run-out. Any attempt to straighten such a stick will result in the wood failing, and breaking at the place of Run-out.

[* I once bought a 48" long, 3/8" hickory stick that had a curve at one end, and run-out at the other. Since I only needed a stick about 30 inches long, I cut away the end with the run-out, and then heated and bent the curve out of the other end. Oh, Because of its defects, the supplier sold it to me for half price, and was glad to get that. He had expected that this stick would become firewood if someone like me, with a project, didn't come along.] :thumbsup:
 
I keep a 4' wooden ramrod for each of my guns, with cleaning jag on the end, that I use just shooting, and I use the rod on the gun when I'm hunting. I've only broken one rod, and that was while wiping the bore on my .32 and watching my wife. :redface: From now on I will watch what I'm doing. :grin:
 
Speaking of wooden ramrods and split wood that follows the grain, sometimes when someone is buying a split hickory ramrod they are upset by the curves it has.

As Paul mentioned these can be straightened but folks should remember that unless there is a really bad twist to it, it doesn't need to be straightened.

Some bow in a wooden ramrod can be useful.
The bow will serve to keep the ramrod from freely moving forward in the thimbles when the gun is carried or fired.
Usually the bow isn't enough to prevent retracting the ramrod from the thimbles and as we all know, when you use the rod correctly to ram the ball the bow doesn't cause the ramrod to "flex" or bend.

Knowing there are a few newcomers to the world of muzzleloading here I'll mention what I meant by "correctly".

After starting the ball into the bore grab the ramrod about 1 foot above the muzzle and press the ball down the bore. Then, grab the ramrod another foot above the bore and repeat.
This is done until the ball seats on the powder.

One should never grab the ramrod 2-3 feet above the muzzle and then try to ram the ball.
Yes, I know that's how they do it in the movies but it's also an excellent way to break a wooden ramrod, even if it doesn't have any grain runout.

Trust me. Ramming the ball using this 1 foot at a time approach will make your wooden ramrod last darn near forever.
 
Thanks. I for one, will follow that advice.I never gave it much thought and out of habit,I was grabbing for the sky,just like in the movies.Just goes to show you,that you are never to old to learn new tricks.
 
I use my wooden rod for everything out in the field, if it breaks I make a new one ,the best is hickory.i'm not using hickory now but I won't say what it is cause others might say it will impale you! It hasn't and most break when you push them to hard or don't use a short starter ash will make a good one also.I do use a superrod when cleaning because it doesn't do wood any good to be soaked everytime I clean my rifle I put my rod back in slathered with ""Howard's feed and wax" in the hope that it will absorb the waxes and oils and eat the wood food that they say is in ""Howard's feed and wax" and thus stay strong and healthy for me it must like what I'm feeding it because it has not IMpaled me yet!Last time I replaced one I was in the field and carved a pine branch down to use to finish shootingand was able to get 6 more shots before I got overzealous and over confident and broke it too.[In a fight with bandits or injuns it might have saved my bacon though!]
 
Wood is all I currently use (my Bess had a metal rammer). I do not use a range rod - just what's in the thimbes. I have a 48" rod at home I use for cleaning that has grooves in the end for a better grip. Never had a rammer break in the 35 years I've been muzzleloading - though much of that was with the old T/C impregnated rods.
 
after doing a little search on-line, I've not found any split hickory rods for sale. Anyone have any leads?
 
I have Roy Stroh Hickery rods in all of my guns. :thumbsup:

I think this one area T/C really missed the boat on. Most of the broken ramrods I've seen were from T/C guns. I had two break on me (both were on my Renegade) over the years and saw a few more broke at the range. I think the ones Roy makes are pretty much not breakable unless your a damn ape using it. :haha: :thumbsup:
 
Check with Track of the Wolf or Dixie Gun Works for hickory rods. I've used hickory rods for many years and never had a problem. Even a rod with some run out has never broken if I use short strokes when loading. The only rods I've seen break were when the shooter reached too far up the rod and bent the rod sideways. I have a "range rod" that I take when going to the range but if I'm out hunting or plinking I use the one under the barrel. The range rod is hickory but a little longer.

As a side note, I also shoot traditional bows. I examine every wooden arrow before ever shooting it. I've never had one break. On the other hand, I've had two supposedly tougher carbon arrows blow up on me. One left splinters in the back of the hand holding the bow.

John
 
I have wooden ram rods for all of my rifles and pistols but I use them for cleaning and for show only. Metal and polymer rods are far less likely to break and cause injury. There are a few matches that allow only wooden ram rods but I never have shot in one. Wooden ram rods can break and cause injury but I do not believe in forcing anyone to use one over the other.
 
Pecatonica River often has boxes of Ramrods for sale at their spot on Commercial Row at Friendship. Give Dick a call and see if this is something he can pick out for you and ship to you.

Consider ordering several- particularly if you are in a gun club. I always bought extras at Friendship, and never had much trouble finding buyers at my club for them. The shipping cost will be the same for 1 or 6, so why not buy some extras?

At Friendship, Dixie GW, and Track, as well as half a dozen other suppliers will have ramrod stock available for sale.
 
Yes, coal oil is just an old term for kerosene. There are many differrent petrolium solvents that will do the job. You could use diesel fuel (it stinks more than kerosene), or you could use Varsol or jet fuel, etc. Kerosene is probably the best becasue of the lower odor and the lower viscosity will allow it to soak into the wood fibers a bit faster than diesel or jet fuel.

Truth be told, I don't think it makes all that much difference in the durability of a rod to soak it in kerosene. It makes it a little bit more flexable but if you are using a split hickory rod, you might not be able to tell the difference.

One bit of sfety advice, NEVER use a dowel rod from the hardware store for a ram rod. I have never seen a dowel rod that didn't have grain run out. When a rod shatters along those run out lines, that is when you have a good chance for a very serious injury. Spend the few extra dollars to get a split hickory ram rod blank.

Metal rods are perfect for range rods but all metal rods should have a muzzle protector to keep them from rubbing on and wearing the muzzle. They are only a few dollars and will keep your old smoke pole's accuracy from deteriorating due to uneven muzzle wear. Personally, I would never use a rod made from a hard metal such as steel. I use only brass or aluminum rods or synthetic (polymer) rods. If you buy a polymer rod, be sure it is stiff and not one of those darned flexable things. They are like trying to use a wet noodle for a ram rod.

There is someone, I forget who, who makes a rod that is wood over a metal core. It has the traditonal looks of wood with the strength of metal. They are nice but they are a bit pricy. I think it is called the Wonder Rod or Miracle Rod or something along those lines. Check with Dixie or Track of The Wolf. They might carry them or know where to get them.
 
Steve Bailey is the hickory RR guy to buy them from. Better grain in them that ANY vender I have been to in any place. I use to go to Friendship & spend 2-3 hours sorting thru RR at various venders, after sorting thru 3-400, my find 3-4 that are what I consider good straight grained. Sometimes found None !!
Steve's are not completely finished, you have to work them to the size you want them to be, but they are close. He hand makes all of them, I have bought over 120 from him & every one of them were good, straight grained & out of that many had ? maybe 5 that ran out at the very end & I was usually cutting of 6-10" anyway, so it didn't really matter.

He also makes extra long rods for guys shooting 48-50" barrels.

Steve is a great guy to deal with, has a ad in the back of Muzzleblasts.

Keith Lisle
 
Soaking ramrods in coal oil, kerosene, fuel oil, etc. doesn't do a thing to either preserve the wood or make it more flexible, IMO. A good friend of mine soaked a couple or new hickory ramrods in a pipe with end caps, filled with kerosene, all winter long- actually from Sept. to June- 9 months, and other than stink, the rods didn't bend better, nor did they flex better longer than rods that were not treated. Everyone in my gun club at the time was waiting the outcome of his experiment, as we had all been exposed to this old wives' tale. All of us were delightfully surprised that we DIDN'T have to soak our Hickory rods in Kerosene to make them flexible. Dale had bought several rods from the same source. He put half in the pipe to soak, and left the others in his garage over the winter. When we tested them that next June, both sets bent just as easily as the others. It was not hard to take a 4" length of ramrod and bend it into a HOOP( circle).

This was done back in the late 1970s, so I suppose its more than time for someone else, YOUNGER, to do their own test and find the answer to this one, again. Good luck. :hatsoff: These old tales never seem to die. They are like the living dead- zombies.
 
I use a stainless steel range rod with a T handle, helps me load multiple shots without cleaning, the wooden range rod I have would get too slippery from patch lube on my hands to load many rounds.But I do use my handmade hickory ramrod when hunting.
 
It's amazing how passionate folks get about what they use, they are right and all others are not.

One thing I do notice, I do not see wood ramrods on the line at Friendship, Phoenix or state shoots, wonder why?

Is there a reason?
 
I make my own hickory rods, with no problems. I give a lot away to friends. I work in a cabinet shop so we get some great hickory, very stright line no run out, nothing better.

Steve Bailey is the man if your buying..
 
When I was going to college, I had to give an oral presentation and needed to refer to illustrations as I spoke. I brought one of my trusty ramrods for my pointer. It looked real profesional, since it was finished nicely and was higher quality than the broken-off tree limbs the other students brought. When I finished, the next speaker asked to borrow it, then the next after her.

Ya, wood ramrods have lots of uses. Bill
 
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