wouldn't ignite

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I learned with PRB's that the patch doesn't need much lube to be effective. Less is better, as long as it allows the ball to slide down onto the powder easy enough.
Another thing I learned about 35 years back was the effect oil has on BP in the breech. After loading the powder and conical the cap would pop but absolutely no ignition for the powder charge. With no ball puller in that initial possibles bag I used the nipple wrench to remove the nipple. Filling the flash bowl with fffg the nipple was returned to its rightful place and a percussion cap was discharged. That small amount of powder was sufficient to pop the maxiball out onto the grass. Repeating this procedure then expelled a oiled soaked plug of black powder onto the ground, too.
After this experience I learned to flush the barrel and flash chamber out with alcohol, swab dry and pop two caps for exceptionally reliable ignition. A lesson never forgotten.
 
I took my T/C Cherokee percussion to the range and shot it with no problems. Took it home and cleaned it like I always do and put it in the gun safe for a week until I took it out to go deer hunting. I ran a dry patch through the barrel and it came out with a slight bit of brownish tint so i ran another and it came clean. I made sure the nipple was clear with the pick and everything seemed ok. I loaded it up and hunted. After about 3 hours I had to leave so I went to shoot an old tree stump to unload and the cap went off but not the main charge? I pulled the ball and when I emptied the powder i had to used my ramrod to break it up it was packed tight. Could I be using to much grease on my patches? At the range I had no problems. I been shooting gun for over 60 years but only muzzle loading shooting for a little over a year at the range . this was my first time hunting with one, Sorry this post is so drawn out but i wanted to make sure I explained
What are you using for powder?
 
Converting to a Flintlock won't happen. I understand what you're saying about flintlocks and better ignition, but this rifle was originally owned by my brother-in-law and was given to me after he passed away from cancer. He used it to take a mule deer in Ariz.. Other than the minor problems I'm having while learning the basic ins and out of muzzle loader shooting, I'm having fun shooting. I have my mind set on getting a flintlock as soon as I find the right one! I do thank you for your reply's!
And you can add to your reasons that a T/C hooked breech percussion is not cheap or easy to convert. Check the prices for a replacement breech plug and flintlock lock on TOTW and Fleebay. And that's if you can do the work yourself, if not add labor too.
 
GOEX 2fg. couldn't find 3fg at any of my local sporting goods/ gun shops. Mom and pop stores, I like to support the little guy as much as possible!
That is what I use 90% of the time. Only time I use 3f is if I am trying to get fastest velocity in a short or fast twist barrel. My interest is in the 1600 to 1750 time frame in northern New England and Canada. I have read that back then they only had rifle or cannon powder, and the rifle powder was like 1.5f. I think they would have been pretty happy using our modern 2f. SO .... I stocked up on 2f, use it in everything (even in the pan of my flintlocks). Might be different if I was competitive shooter.
 
I take nipple out and soak it in Butch's bore shine. I take the barrel out of the stock, then I put the nipple end of the barrel in a container and use the scraper and then pour butch's bore shine down the barrel until it comes out the flame channel. I soak a patch and run it up and down the barrel in a pumping motion. then i pour out any liquid and start running dry patches down the barrel until they come out clean. I have small brushes that i used to clean the nipple and flame channel. My last step is to put a small dab of anti-seize on the threads and reinstall the nipple, then I use RIG universal gun grease on a patch and run it in the barrel between uses. I grease my patches with thompson bore butter. Before I loaded it, I ran a couple patches down the barrel to clean the grease out. Then I went through the loading procedure. 50 grains powder, greased patch and ball, cap on nipple, and shoot. I do the same thing when at the range and didn't have any problems. I run a patch through the barrel after every 3 or 4 shots at the range. This is why I was wondering if maybe I was using too much grease on my patches when I was hunting and after a while the powder was drawing the moisture from the greased patch?

Could you have pushed your Rig grease into the patent breech when trying to clean it back out before loading after storage? Perhaps you applied a bit more than usual and then running a tight fitting patch/jag down the bore resulted in some of it clogging the opening of the flame channel at the patent breech?

I'd think it'd take quite a bit of bore butter on a patch before it would be the culprit of fouling your powder. I think it would have to be applied so thickly that there was a ton of excess that wouldn't even rub into the patch. It only takes enough to "fill the weave".

You cleaning method.
Is there liquid in the container the breech is in? Or enough Butch's is poured through so that when you "soak a patch and run it up/down the barrel in a pumping motion" it is pushing/pulling liquid through the flame channel? Or is the container empty and just meant to catch the Butch's you pour through?
 
Could you have pushed your Rig grease into the patent breech when trying to clean it back out before loading after storage? Perhaps you applied a bit more than usual and then running a tight fitting patch/jag down the bore resulted in some of it clogging the opening of the flame channel at the patent breech?

I'd think it'd take quite a bit of bore butter on a patch before it would be the culprit of fouling your powder. I think it would have to be applied so thickly that there was a ton of excess that wouldn't even rub into the patch. It only takes enough to "fill the weave".

You cleaning method.
Is there liquid in the container the breech is in? Or enough Butch's is poured through so that when you "soak a patch and run it up/down the barrel in a pumping motion" it is pushing/pulling liquid through the flame channel? Or is the container empty and just meant to catch the Butch's you pour through?
There's enough liquid to pull and push through the flame channel I'm keeping all these replies in mind and going to start from the beginning and give it a good cleaning again and use the alcohol this time. Something I didn't do before joining this site!
 
There's enough liquid to pull and push through the flame channel I'm keeping all these replies in mind and going to start from the beginning and give it a good cleaning again and use the alcohol this time. Something I didn't do before joining this site!
I bring a can of butane lighter fluid to the range with me. Right before I load a recently cleaned gun I use it to blast through the nipple port or touch hole to clear out any errant oils that may prevent ignition. I know it ain't traditional and no one else does it and I have been teased here on this forum for saying so before....but it works just dandy.
I suppose I could use that canned air they sell to clean out your computer, but I already have the butane on hand as my lighters need filling on occasion.
 
I bring a can of butane lighter fluid to the range with me. Right before I load a recently cleaned gun I use it to blast through the nipple port or touch hole to clear out any errant oils that may prevent ignition. I know it ain't traditional and no one else does it and I have been teased here on this forum for saying so before....but it works just dandy.
I suppose I could use that canned air they sell to clean out your computer, but I already have the butane on hand as my lighters need filling on occasion.
I think its kind of clever.
 
Before I loaded it, I ran a couple patches down the barrel to clean the grease out. Then I went through the loading procedure. 50 grains powder, greased patch and ball, cap on nipple, and shoot.
Before you load the rifle, snap a few caps on an empty barrel. Reason is, you may have pushed some grease into the flash channel. Snapping caps will insure a clear path for the flame from the nipple to the powder charge. First cap, point the rifle in a safe direction and fire, second cap, point the rifle toward the ground and fire. You should see grass or dirt move. Then start your loading procedure.
This will save much frustration when the rifle doesn't fire with your loading system. Jus' sayin'
 
As mentioned the oil will settle into the breech area of the T.C.s if stored barrel up. I always use a leather over powder wad to prevent any lube from the mini's or patches from fouling my powder while hunting since the gun will remain loader for several hours(or days)
 
After cleaning flint or percussion gun , always sit the gun muzzle down on a rag all night , then wipe the bore dry the next day. Gets that oil ,or other liquids out into the bore , away from the breech , where they can be wiped out w/ a cleaning patch. Good to go... :thumb:
 
Lots of good advice so far. I only use hot water to clean and mink oil, tallow, lard to prevent rust. Only time I use "oil" is for long term storage, but then clean before shooting. In my experience oil in a bp barrel can cause issues. Back 40 years ago, when I knew everything, I caused myself a lot of headaches with poor ignition and pulled many balls. That stopped once I quit trying to clean a proper muzzleloader like those newfangled cartridge guns. I honestly think those are just a fad anyway, they'll never catch on.
Just what works for me.
 
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