Yet Another Kibler Longrifles Kit Build...

[Zonie]

If you use a super-glue, I suggest that it be the gel type.
The gel type doesn't set up instantly so you should have a few seconds to work the chip down into place before it freezes.

Another idea that is a lot less likely to freeze the part in the wrong place is to use some regular carpenter wood glue.
First find a comfortable chair or couch by the TV and sit on it. Find something interesting to watch (if you can). Apply some of it to both pieces, position the chipped out piece in place and work it down so it is exactly in the right place.
Now, using firm thumb pressure, hold the chip in place.
If you hold it for 15 or more minutes, you should be able to carefully remove the thumb pressure and lay the gun somewhere save so the glue can finish hardening. (After 15 minutes the glue will have hardened enough to keep the chip from moving. During this time, a lot of the water in the glue will sink into the wood , causing the glue to slightly harden. No, the joint won't be strong at this stage but there should be no reason to hold the chip longer than that.)

 

[Art Caputo]

One of the best glues I have found for repairing stock chip such as yours is Fletch-Tite Platinum fletching cement which is used for gluing feathers and vanes to arrows. Being also an avid traditional archer, I stumbled on this several years ago when I took a chip out of one if my muzzleloaders, It’s easy to work with, dries quickly, and results in an exceptionally strong and seamless bond.
https://www.ebay.com/p/2256016477?i...QL4zmK5j2FUBR7tRS1p_UyqN9ClLP54BoCj9cQAvD_BwE

 

[troy2000]

Zonie and Art, good advice from both of you.

Unfortunately, I may have proven it's time for me to be looked after in my old age: I've lost the chip again. The stock was in the vice when I went to bed last night, and I'd have sworn I left the chip setting in place; earlier I was admiring the fact that there was no visible line between it and the stock. This morning? Can't find it anywhere. I was a wee bit tipsy, and I'm wondering if I cleverly put it up somewhere so it wouldn't get lost, and don't remember doing so. I've done dumber things...

Anyway, looks like I get to challenge my skills a little. I found a scrap of maple in my cutoff pile that finishes out very close to the same color as the stock, when I hit it with iron nitrate and the heat gun. It won't have the dark striping the stock has, but the missing piece is very small and tucked behind the butt plate. If some of it needs darkening to blend in, I'm betting I can get away with a dab of finely powdered charcoal in linseed oil.

I didn't tackle it today; I'm a little burned out from yesterday and decided to mostly just veg. I did rouse myself long enough to make a mean hamburger stew, though - with lean ground beef, scrubbed and diced potatoes, chopped onion, sliced mushrooms, baby carrots, radishes, chopped jalapenos, chicken stock, canned diced tomatoes, tomato paste, dry onion soup mix, cilantro, black pepper, Worcestershire sauce and Pappy's Choice Seasoning.

 

[Art Caputo]

I’ve had the same thing happen to me....getting old isn’t easy! Charcoal blending should work out fine and look natural in the location of the chip. Kibler sells a product(charcoal?) called Bone Black that I’ve used with good success when I over cut a trigger base inlet on my Hawken and had to fill it with a scrap piece that didn’t match well.

 

[troy2000]

I’ve had the same thing happen to me....getting old isn’t easy!

But it beats heck out of the alternatives...

Charcoal blending should work out fine and look natural in the location of the chip. Kibler sells a product(charcoal?) called Bone Black that I’ve used with good success when I over cut a trigger base inlet on my Hawken and had to fill it with a scrap piece that didn’t match well.

I was surfing the internet today, and learned that Bone black really is made from bones. They're subjected to extremely high temps in a closed, oxygen-poor container until almost everything but the carbon has cooked off.

 

[Troyfairweather]

I like the look the bone black can add to the gun, makes it look aged. I did a custom 1891 Argentine a few years ago, I got a cool old j.p.sauer and son octagon to round with a full rib. I was thinking of using the bone black to age the walnut so it looked like it was built a 100+ years ago.

I ended up making a steel wool and vinegar mix, it did a nice job to blacken the walnut.

troy you may have to get drunk again to find that chip,I would put stuff in places thinking it would be funny when my sober self found them.

 

[troy2000]

troy you may have to get drunk again to find that chip,I would put stuff in places thinking it would be funny when my sober self found them.

Worth a try. Or at least it's as good an excuse as any...

 

[flntlokr]

Yesss!!! Found the chip that was broken off, and it's in good enough condition to glue back into place. I'll have to do a little minor cleanup where the leading edge is a bit smashed, but that shouldn't be a big problem.

Went to work at 5:00 this morning, got off at 1:30 after running a couple hundred feet of 1" tubing, to convert a mainline valve from gas-actuated to air actuated on a 30" natural gas pipeline. Came back and ignored the world for three or four hours while I had a few drinks, played an ancient video game, and nuked a potato I buried in harissa and butter. Not that I was procrastinating, or anything like that...

Finally I grabbed a small trash can, got down on my hands and knees, and started picking up everything in my shop that looked remotely like a small chunk of wood. I have a 20' x 35' foot Quonset hut for a wood shop and I'm a lousy housekeeper, so I wasn't liking my chances. But about half an hour later, I scored.

I don't really see a way to clamp that little odd-shaped piece into place while any normal wood glue sets up. So I think I'm going to go the superglue route, untraditional as it may be.

I use 5

 

[troy2000]

I like the look the bone black can add to the gun, makes it look aged. I did a custom 1891 Argentine a few years ago, I got a cool old j.p.sauer and son octagon to round with a full rib. I was thinking of using the bone black to age the walnut so it looked like it was built a 100+ years ago.

I ended up making a steel wool and vinegar mix, it did a nice job to blacken the walnut.

The first gun I ever fired was my uncle's Argentine Mauser, back when I was a little tyke. My dad folded his leather jacket on top of a rock as a rest, and set me in a kneeling position behind it. When I pulled the trigger, I wound up flat on my back with the rifle pointing at the sky. But I did hit the Coke can I was aiming at.

 

[Troyfairweather]

The first gun I ever fired was my uncle's Argentine Mauser, back when I was a little tyke. My dad folded his leather jacket on top of a rock as a rest, and set me in a kneeling position behind it. When I pulled the trigger, I wound up flat on my back with the rifle pointing at the sky. But I did hit the Coke can I was aiming at.

I sometimes envy people that know what was there first gun they shot. I've been around them so much I don't know mine.

 

[Doc Ivory]

I've been using linseed oil in appropriate situations for fifty years with no problems, on everything from furniture to musical instruments to gun stocks. Is it as impervious, waterproof and bulletproof as some modern finishes? No... but thank God, it doesn't look like them either. I don't want what I create or refinish to look like it's been dipped in plastic.

add: like most finishes, linseed oil shouldn't be left to face wear and tear and the elements with no protection. Plain old Johnson's paste wax works surprisingly well; I usually hit even painted furniture with a coat of it. On my gunstocks, I usually rub in a few coats of Gunny's paste (equal parts linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax) when they're done. In fact, I have a couple of milsurps with stocks that were finished from bare wood with nothing but multiple coats of Gunny's paste, and they've held up well.

hey Troy!
I really enjoy the look of BLO on wood and was thinking of doing my Kibler stock with it. Do you think a few coats of a decent wax would keep the high wear areas of the gun stock protected well enough or would a varnish be called for?

-Jim

 

[Jim Wag]

Troy
I tune in daily to check on your latest
Blow by blow
Real life
Best of luck with your build

Jim in La Luz

 

[troy2000]

I sometimes envy people that know what was there first gun they shot. I've been around them so much I don't know mine.

I was barely five years old at the time. A couple of years later, my dad bought me and my older brother a single shot .22 carbine. He'd light a candle for a target, and we were expected to snuff it out without hitting the candle.

He also drilled us in boxing and quarterstaff fighting, and things like pacing off distances. He'd have us pace off a hundred yards, then check us with an old 100 yard tape. He taught us to navigate a straight line by always keeping three trees or rocks lined up, to properly start a campfire, and a lot of other stuff we took for granted but modern kids don't know.

 

[troy2000]

Not real ambitious this afternoon, another rough day at work. I did hit the butt plate with some aging solution, but spent a ridiculous amount of time sanding it first. You'd be amazed what you find on an apparently smooth surface, when you sand and file after it's been blackened.

 

[troy2000]

hey Troy!
I really enjoy the look of BLO on wood and was thinking of doing my Kibler stock with it. Do you think a few coats of a decent wax would keep the high wear areas of the gun stock protected well enough or would a varnish be called for?

-Jim

I've always had good luck with wax over BLO, Jim. But of course, I don't carry or shoot any of my guns for hundreds of hours; I kind of spread the love.

add: I wouldn't use anything with silicone in it; by all accounts you'll never manage to completely get rid of the silicone if you want to touch up or refinish the stock. I generally use plain old Johnson's wax, because I keep a can of it around to use on my tools..

 

[Doc Ivory]

I’ve gotta try it.
I’m thinking that with a good coat of Johnson’s paste wax, it should holdup pretty well. Maybe even develop a patina in the places where I grip it most.
Hey, ya gotta try stuff, ya know?
-Jim

 

[troy2000]

Nothing earthshaking on the gun today; I rubbed another coat of linseed oil into the stock. That's about all I had ambition for, after a rough day at work. At the age of 71, coworkers half my age still have to hustle to keep up with me. But at the end of the day they go to the gym, go to the archery range, go four wheeling, go bar hopping... I go back to my shop, and breathe a sigh of relief that I survived another day at work.

Planning on tackling the repair at the butt end of the stock tomorrow, though.

 

[troy2000]

I’ve gotta try it.
I’m thinking that with a good coat of Johnson’s paste wax, it should holdup pretty well. Maybe even develop a patina in the places where I grip it most.
Hey, ya gotta try stuff, ya know?
-Jim

I think you and your guns will get along fine with Johnson's wax.

 

[Doc Ivory]

I go back to my shop, and breathe a sigh of relief that I survived another day at work.

Younguns don't understand, but they will.

 

[troy2000]

Back at it, sort of. Had a rough week at work, then had to head home for the weekend to do more auto repair, and I think I was also just due for a bit of a break. But I had an epiphany this afternoon: I don't have to complete the finishes on the metal or the wood to shoot the gun. Everything has enough on it to survive being handled and fired, and I can take it back apart and keep going anytime I want... I think I'll put it together and take it out later this week.

I haven't totally neglected it, though; I've rubbed a couple more coats of linseed oil into the stock. And I re-blackened the butt plate and tang, where I had filed and sanded for the final fit.

I was pretty free and easy with the patina solution I bought from Kibler's online store, and ran out. I wasn't wild about paying their $10.00 flat shipping fee since I would only be ordering a single item, although I understand it - it's a sideline for them. They aren't a high-volume vendor with a big warehouse, and a staff geared towards efficiently stuffing and sending off packages.

So I went looking on Amazon, and found a 32 oz. bottle of 'brass darkening solution' for $32.78 that seemed to be the same thing. Add in free shipping and delivery in a couple of days, because I have Amazon Prime, and I figured I couldn't lose. I'd have plenty left over for future miscellaneous projects.

But when I first tried the stuff on the butt plate, it seemed to be a disaster. The finish was blotchy, it wasn't dark enough, some of it looked like it was copper plating instead of darkening, and a couple of the sanded spots didn't do much at all. I thought, "oh well, sometimes you get what you pay for," set it aside, and went home for the weekend.

But it gradually dawned on me that I hadn't followed Jim's instructions this time around. Instead of using Scotch-Brite, I had simply applied it with a paper towel - because I misplaced the scrap of Scotch-Brite I originally used. So today I tried it again, saturating the butt plate and rubbing it in with some Scotch-Brite I bought after work. It worked beautifully. Doh...

add: I did flatten the chipped area of the butt on my disc sander, and I'll try to get a repair piece glued in tomorrow evening.