I have bought a few bad bottles of Tru-oil over the years, the finish stayed tacky. I use a lot of the stuff on bows and guns, the finish from my last bottle would dry in an hour, the weather was warm.
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TRU-OIL problem
- Thread starter labrat
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I was thinking maybe he had a bad bottle. I just finished a rifle yesterday with Tru-oil.
I was hanging it in the sun and putting on a thin coat every 3 hours.
turned out nice
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Well, ya, but I see you're in Texas.
I've done this before with good results.
I have read about the armor all trick before but never saw a video of someone doing it I’ve never done it myself but surely would be something to experiment with if you are so inclined…Maybe someday I’ll give it a try.
I would probably rather experiment on handgun grips vs a rifle stock. If anyone here tries it, let us know how it worked for you. Or if you have already tried it.
Oops, I see that Greg Y has done it with good results. I didn’t see that at first just watched the video.
I would probably rather experiment on handgun grips vs a rifle stock. If anyone here tries it, let us know how it worked for you. Or if you have already tried it.
Oops, I see that Greg Y has done it with good results. I didn’t see that at first just watched the video.
Ha! ladies panty hose, where do you get that now days? When I was in the Corps back in the earl 60's.I finished my M 14 with Truoil, all hand rubbed, it looked B Ut E Full. The Sgt Major in the Sixth Marines didn't think it was so nice. I had to remove it along with many hours of extra duty. Have not used since
That’s a good story. Was not like everyone else’s, too shiny would reflect light in combat or no reason, just because he said so?
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We use so much stock finish, that we make our own. Like Tru-Oil..BLO and Japan drier from the paint store.
About 10% drier..Thin coats, maybe 2 a day. for a week. When grain is full, rub back with Rotten Stone to the gloss you like.
If the oil is not working for you, wipe it off with acetone. Start over...Sorry, it may take off some of the stain as well..
My stockmaker has more patience than I, and takes the time..
Being lazy, after raising the grain a few times and sanding the whiskers, I stain, fill the grain with thinned Bullseye shellac, light sanding, and then oil finish..
About 10% drier..Thin coats, maybe 2 a day. for a week. When grain is full, rub back with Rotten Stone to the gloss you like.
If the oil is not working for you, wipe it off with acetone. Start over...Sorry, it may take off some of the stain as well..
My stockmaker has more patience than I, and takes the time..
Being lazy, after raising the grain a few times and sanding the whiskers, I stain, fill the grain with thinned Bullseye shellac, light sanding, and then oil finish..
I do it differently although finger application is also used. I find thin coats will give me rub throughs when dulling it out. I use a touch up spray gun, small thing, thin the tru oil and spay a thin coat, let dry until tacky and spray again and again letting it get tacky between, 5 or 6 coats. This lets each coat blend with the coat I applied before so there is one thick coat when done. Set aside for a week or two until the finish can not be smelled. Then it can be rubbed out without rub throughs.
Many years ago I made a stock for my model 12 field gun that I put a roll-over comb on. I then sprayed it with a diluted mixture of Tru-Oil and mineral spirts. I use a Binks #24 touch-up gun to spray the finish on. It came out GREAT.
BEWARE!! Mineral Oil and Mineral Spirits are totally different liquids. If you mix mineral oil in with it, I doubt it will ever dry. Mineral Spirits acts more like turpentine in that it cuts thicker compounds and dries quickly
Never leave the lid of a can or bottle of mineral spirits because it will evaporate. Leaving the lid off a bottle of mineral oil on the other hand offers no danger of evaporation. It's more likely to get knocked over and you'll need an absorbent material to clean it up - cat litter, baking soda, cornstarch etc. Once that's done you can probably get rid of the slick spot with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
I use a thin coat of mineral oil on my high-carbon knives to protect them from rust.
You're right. Thanks for clarifying my sloppy indentification.
Give me spirits any day!!
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When I use Tru-oil I slop it on. I then wipe it off with a lint free tac cloth. Next coat in 3-4 hrs.
gustrolland
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I have had mixed results with tru-oil. You can build a box with a 100watt bulb and let dry for about a week. That usually works for stocks that are hard to get dried.
N.Y. Yankee
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I think Tru Oil produces a beautiful finish, especially on ML stocks, but you have to do it correctly. I have done ML stocks, shotgun stocks, and CF rifle stocks. Takes a long time to do all the coats on each but it is worth it. I just buy the small bottles, do the project and toss the rest. It usually gets gummy after being stored for a while anyway. I have cut it with a bit of mineral spirits too. That helps.
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Tru-Oil needs to be applied in very thin coats, or you’ll end up with a maple syrup varnish.
I’ve had a lot of success putting on true oil with Magic Erasers and then rubbing it back with rotten stone after it dries.
When applying by hand you generally get a rather thin coat. But, as I and others have posted in this thread, a heavy coat or series of coats (there was a post where it was sprayed on then once tacky more coats were sprayed on) can and have been applied. I have never had what you describe as “a maple syrup varnish”.
I like reading how others apply TruOil but from what I have read it appears that lots of people apply it as one would BLO, to the point, with TruOil that technique is not necessary.
As others have also noted, if you have a relatively thin coating (even after several coats) you will very likely rub through the finish in spots should you rub out the finish using rotten stone or whatever.
But whatever works for whoever is fine with me. I have no intention of changing how I use the product.
This is a walnut stock that I finished with TruOil using an airbrush. At times in the finishing process I added an oil based stain to the TruOil. No knocking down of the finish was done on this stock, the non-shiny effect was achieved by adding something to the TruOil for the final coat.
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MAC1967
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I can't recall where I bought the can I have . . .Cabella's perhaps. I only see the bottle at Walmart and other places. I am sure you could find a spray can online. Another option, though it may be too late, is a spray finish like a satin polyurethane which you can find easily as Loews, Wal Mart or Home Depot etc. . . . it dries much faster. It does not have linseed oil so it won't make nitric pop the grain or darken wood, but if you're using an alcohol stain like LMF then it works fine and cuts back easier than true oil in my opinion. I have used it often on modern gun stocks after staining The only down side to it is that if applied too heavily it can run, but that's what steel wool is for !!
I use Min-Wax Spar Urethane, in the green spay can. You can get it in clear gloss, clear semi gloss, and satin gloss. Any of these will give a good looking protective coat.
I use BC stock filler/sealer as my starting base coat sealer. After that I do one coat a day with the Spar Urethane, rubbed down between coats with 3-M gray pads.
The Spar Urethane holds real well, in all kinds of weather.
I don't think BC spray can True Oil is available anymore, That's why I started using the Min-Wax Spar Urethane.
Dave
I use BC stock filler/sealer as my starting base coat sealer. After that I do one coat a day with the Spar Urethane, rubbed down between coats with 3-M gray pads.
The Spar Urethane holds real well, in all kinds of weather.
I don't think BC spray can True Oil is available anymore, That's why I started using the Min-Wax Spar Urethane.
Dave
