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  1. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    The walnut is a chunk of Claro that is highly figured, and the pictures do not do it justice. The finish is 2 applications of Permalyn sealer (my fave) and hand rubbed linseed after that. I didn't want any gloss, just that dull sheen. The walnut was not as heavy as I like it, but I didn't...
  2. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    The pin is shown not all the way in the tumbler (so it can be seen) but you can see how it works. The raised "pad" on the safety is precisely mated to the ****'s backside. As to the spring system, that is a secret. :grin: But all this is for another project anyway-
  3. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    The Snaphaunce spring (external)was made from scratch, but if you are asking about the Chambers, then I also made the spring, and it has 2 detents- the **** holds everything in place basically.
  4. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    On the Chambers, I just made a "Pin in Tumbler" style, so I used the Chambers tumbler. The sliding safety has a heat-treated pin that goes into a recess right at the square to round junction on the tumbler. I cheated, and used a milling machine to cut the "pocket" into the lockplate's face and...
  5. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    Thanks, Roy- This is how the castings come, it is not for the faint of heart. I shaped all the screw heads by hand, and hand cut the slots. Under close scrutiny, nothing is perfect, and I feel this looks better on these really old locks. You will notice the safety at the rear of the lock,(on...
  6. E

    Finished Snaphaunce lock-

    Front and backside shots with a Chambers (modified) lock for a size comparison. The castings are from the Rifle Shoppe, and I did have to scratch-build some springs out of 1095 (vs. the provided cast articles)and some screws to get the look/function I wanted. Surprisingly smooth action, is good...
  7. E

    Plunger type horn spout question

    My current Horns use the classic "fiddle peg" stoppers, but I am looking for something else- I have a question regarding the reliability, and ease of use with those side plunger (cylindrical with spring) that TOTW sells. The kind that allows flow with just a press of the plunger. Do they get...
  8. E

    Another Lancaster

    Right off the bat.......... You did right with the triggerguard, good clean facets, none of the polished over "lump" look. As that brass gets some patina, that triggerguard is going to look fabulous. I really like how you didn't go bongos on the maple, and went with a lightly figured blank, it...
  9. E

    Expectation for off hand accuracy with a Flintlock

    With my deer/pig hunting rifle (58 cal. Transitional Long Rifle)I can make 'em touch at 25, 2-3" at 50, and 8-10" at 100- this represents an "average" I suppose. With my 36 cal "Poor boy" my groups up to 50 are very tight, I don't shoot that one at 100, never shot anything farther than maybe 30...
  10. E

    Making a Spring

    Just got done making a 1600's safety spring today, on top of many in the last 10 years...... I use 1095 in the annealed state for starters, as it is very tough and very forgiving IMO. I machined a Snaphaunce safety spring, bent it to desired shape using MAPP gas, then went through a simple...
  11. E

    new guys first build.

    Just my opinion- but if you use the Siler, you will regret it, sooner or later. If it was me, I would use a correct size/config lock and save the Siler for build number 2. Forgot to add- Before I knew better, I used a tiny L+R on a "Lancaster"...............needless to say it is hidden away for...
  12. E

    Inletting on the lock, normal?

    With a swamped barrel, I have never opted for a "semi inlet" lock, as the swamped profile limits fore/aft and you are basically stuck with what is cut (barrel channel) on a pre-carve. With a straight profile barrel, then a "semi inlet" lock is acceptable. I personally prefer a non inlet...
  13. E

    The Rifle Shoppe

    I have been on a "Rifle Shoppe" kick for the last 5 years, and the only real gripe was some walnut issues. There is nothing worse than "light" walnut, meaning new growth, not dense, big pores, lightweight blanks, I want it old growth and heavy with tight, tight grain. I got some wood from them...
  14. E

    Trying again

    The basic shape so far looks good! Nice curve of the grip, hope that lock works like a champ.
  15. E

    Sighting in Snaphaunce

    That might definitely be an option. Even getting another frizen casting from TRS might be a good idea. I always purchase 2 sets of spring castings, and 2 frizzens (per lock) when I order from TRS.
  16. E

    Sighting in Snaphaunce

    Bioprof- That setup looks good to me, maybe starts out a bit low (flint frizzen), but otherwise looks like it kicks over in the right spot. My frizzen is not super hard, I would say "medium hard" in comparison to other locks that I have, and it sparks great. Your lock is so similar to mine...
  17. E

    Sighting in Snaphaunce

    Not the "English Musket" lock. The sear acts from the side, and engages a recess on the **** through a port on the lockplate.
  18. E

    My First Handgonne Build

    Looks great! I used a stick of Teak, and did it octagonal (copied Claypipe style).
  19. E

    Roy's latest masterpiece

    I like Roy's work the best, he gets the look down perfectly. You gotta love how far back the indentation for the wrist goes, totally balanced with the lines. It blends/compliments the triggerguard exactly. Awesome Fowler Roy!
  20. E

    Sighting in Snaphaunce

    Here is the frizzen position when it is sitting on the pan. It is under spring pressure, and rests nice and solid on the pan cover. When the flint impacts (never mind the thrashed flint)and the flint gets the last bit of stroke on the face, the frizzen is slightly forward of pan center, and the...
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