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It still says "Made in Italy" and "Black Powder Only" on barrel. Doubt that it's been defarbed.

Just a question to all - has anyone ever seen one of these pistols with a welded breechplug? I've owned several and worked on a few and have seen where the tang was welded on - the weld was obvious from underneath the tang - but I've never seen a bead run all around the plug as if to hold it in...

And remember - that undersized, non-patched ball had a lot of "windage" around it, keeping pressures down as well.

Funny you should ask; I posted about this just recently. I have the same .45 caliber Minuteman that I convert back and forth although I must admit that the flintlock is my favorite. Your Minuteman has a drum and nipple set-up; you can just unscrew the drum and install the appropriate vent liner...

Yep. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks.

I own a .45 Minuteman that one of the members here asked about several years ago. At that time the folks who replied to his post spoke poorly of that model of rifle so he decided not to buy it. I contacted him, found out where it was for sale and bought it myself. I was familiar with the rifle...

"I think I will have to move the whole trigger mechanism back a ways to get a lighter pull (by putting the pivot point closer to the contact point" Don't you have that backwards? Wouldn't you want to move the pivot point FARTHER from the contact point to gain leverage/mechanical advantage...

It appears that your new barrel could be still loaded.

The guy is new here and already he gets jumped on? Really? He just asked a hypothetical question. Wow.

Cross pin and epoxy!!!

Going against the tide here but I'd be wary about shooting conicals in your pistol due to the recoil. I don't have a Traditions Kentucky but I do have two CVA Kentucky pistols and I believe that they are similar in construction. On my pistols the only things that hold the barrels to the stocks...

Not too sure that your hardening process did much for you; especially since you say that the flint is still gouging the frizzen. There's always going to be some scraping on that frizzen - that's where the sparks come from - but gouging is excessive. You should try hardening your frizzen with...

Relichunter11 - What process did you use to try to caseharden your frizzen? just curious.

The first time I used LMF browning, I had a good friend (now deceased) tell me "You're going to think that you've ruined your barrel after you apply the first coat. But follow the instructions, keep going, and it'll be just fine." And he was right. And I miss that guy every day.

I have a strong feeling that the late Paul V. is searching for a computer keyboard right now somewhere in the Great Beyond. :)

Had one back in the early 70's in percussion. VERY accurate with a .429 ball, thick patch and a 3f powder amount that I cannot recall. Fit and finish was similar to Pedersolis of that period. The only downside - and I really disliked this - was that the ramrod hole in the stock was bored really...

Okay, "That, plus a 15 thousandths patch equals 73 thousandths" should have been ".73 caliber" not "73 thousandths". My bad, but you get the idea. :redface:

Keep in mind that you'll have a smoothbore to deal with. A rifle's bore diameter is measured from land to land; there are grooves to take up some of the patch's bulk. Your smoothbore is just that - smooth. I would get a .70 caliber mold. That, plus a 15 thousandths patch equals 73 thousandths...

Following Claude's link, I found a MSDS sheet that shows an ignition temperature of 670 degrees F. This is significantly higher than black powder, although it is slightly lower than Pyrodex, triple 7 and other subs.

Never used it as a bore protectant but I did try dipping some minie balls in it; it worked well as a lube. But I didn't shoot up all the bullets and didn't get back to the range for a couple of months. In that time, the Bore Butter had dried out and was flaking off the bullets. I'd have to...