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tg, I agree completely. I just don't like to see a thread like this - which, like most, contains a lot of useful information - degenerate into name calling and insuts. I seriously doubt that these things would be said in the same fashion between forum members in a face to face situation. It's...

Shortbow's objections were "Insults of other makers, ganging up, disrespect, wrangling, disputes, bad manners, just disgraceful behavior." Shortbow isn't the only one who dislikes this kind of behavior. When attacks become personal threads lose so much of their usefulness.

I use them. As I see it they're another safety feature. And, in my opinion, there is no such thing as too safe. I don't preach to others about it but Roundball asked.

Just a reminder - this is how the thread started; with a question that has long since fallen to the wayside.

I always use some kind of anti-seize compound when installing a vent liner. Doesn't matter if I intend to remove it or not. If removal at some future time requires a gunsmith or machinist and an e-z out I figure that they'll appreciate the anti-sieze stuff. Simple.

Dump the prime, go home and stay there. Oh, and hope that the rest of my day didn't suck as badly.

Thank you, Roundball. Appreciate your time and the report. :hatsoff:

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Barrel Finish does require heat - I'm reading the directions on a 5 ounce bottle right now. Directions, step # 3, "Heat with clean source of heat until a drop of water sizzles (approximately 275 degrees F)" That's pretty warm.

But to get back to the original quesion - I've never visited their store in Tennessee but I've done business with them for a lot of years now. Always satisfied with both their products and their customer service. Sometimes (not always) thought them to be just a bit pricey but for my purposes...

Another good one gone. God bless.

Mine's a Black & Decker 22" Workmate plastic tool box. Actually I have two; one for muzzleloading and one for centerfire. I started carrying a large metal tacklebox full of "stuff" about 40 years or so when I shot with a group of guys that had formed the White River Muzzleloaders, near White...

What kind of a barrelled reciever is on the bench behind the fellow? I know that we limit our discussions to firearms through the Civil War period, but that one looks out of place. :hmm:

Mold several sizes of round balls and minie balls, make my own lubes, cut my own patches. Tried knapping flints; now I just purchase them.

"I would think that .100" of metal between the bore and the bottom of a dovetail slot will be sufficiently safe to shoot with BP loads." Paul,you do realize that ".100" is five times thicker than ".020", right?

Two playing cards from a standard deck of cards measures just over .020. I'd want a lot more metal than that between me and an explosion.

BD started this thread to share a project and ask questions, in a polite and non-confrontational manner. And it sure went south. Sheesh.

Here's another Indian-made repro that has the 46 inch barrel, a steel rammer and no nosecap or band. The seller claims that this variation is accurate (of course they would). So it can be done, especially with your demonstrated skills - http://www.militaryheritage.com/musket6.htm . Just a...

You'll want the flint to strike the frizzen about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up. From the picture of your musket's lock at half-cock, you should be pretty close. You can do fine tuning by the bevel up - bevel down thing; also by moving the flint forward or back in the jaws. Moving the flint forward...

A lot of the H&A frontstuffers of that era were nominally .45 caliber but were in reality .44! I have a Minuteman Kentucky-style rifle that is one of their .44 calibers, although sold as a .45. Accurate rifle, though. Best to measure the bore. Have fun!

As always - interesting and well done. Thank you. :hatsoff: