2024/2025 Squirrel Hunting Thread...........

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CCI#11, and Remington #11 are the only 2 I've used in any of my 32's. Like Duk, I didn't notice any difference. I shoot more CCI, because that's what I have the most of. Looking forward to your range report Scott!
I am too lol. Considering taking a day off work next week to do it!
 
32 cal Crockett, replacement nipple
Can you guys tell me which one to
Get, are they the type with the hot shot vent relief hole in it???? 6mm×1
Any nipple info ??
I use the standard style nipples and haven’t had the first issue. They are metric threads 6-1. TOTW order number is CVA-S.

It is confusing on their listing and the nipples smaller holes are slightly different but they work just as they should. I actually called and spoke to someone at TOTW about this.
 

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I use the standard style nipples and haven’t had the first issue. They are metric threads 6-1. TOTW order number is CVA-S.

It is confusing on their listing and the nipples smaller holes are slightly different but they work just as they should. I actually called and spoke to someone at TOTW about this.
That's the same ones I use.
 
I use the standard style nipples and haven’t had the first issue. They are metric threads 6-1. TOTW order number is CVA-S.

It is confusing on their listing and the nipples smaller holes are slightly different but they work just as they should. I actually called and spoke to someone at TOTW about this.
Thanks ETipp, I'm going to shoot my
Crockett this weekend , with the factory nipple, have to clean barrel of
Factory grease and oil, then let the good time's roll, I hope for good results , I'll be loading (just as you recommended), And if you have have
Time (old range new video he shooting a GPR at 50yrds, with secret wadding, never heard of such.
 
Thanks ETipp, I'm going to shoot my
Crockett this weekend , with the factory nipple, have to clean barrel of
Factory grease and oil, then let the good time's roll, I hope for good results , I'll be loading (just as you recommended), And if you have have
Time (old range new video he shooting a GPR at 50yrds, with secret wadding, never heard of such.
Where can the video be found?

Please post up on how your range trip turned out.
 
Where can the video be found?

Please post up on how your range trip turned out.
ETipp , shot this evening, 25yrds
With 15 thou and 18 tick patches
As of now, .018 pil tick lubed with
Mink oil patch lube, 3 shots. 2 of 3
Cut holes 3 shot not quite, all three
With in quarter size group. The ,015
Pre cut and lubed considerable difference. As of now I'm sticking with. 18 pil tick patch mink oil lube
Still getting the fill of the rifle, (and I
Have a question guys the patches
Both types are when started cut
The edge of the patch all the way around and the threads go down
The barrel, these are about size of a
Nickel, I'm thinking this could hinder
Accuracy, is thinking correct?
And 3 shot group, with a quarter
Is that good, bad, or ugly??
Chim in guys need the input.
Tin Spot
 
ETipp , shot this evening, 25yrds
With 15 thou and 18 tick patches
As of now, .018 pil tick lubed with
Mink oil patch lube, 3 shots. 2 of 3
Cut holes 3 shot not quite, all three
With in quarter size group. The ,015
Pre cut and lubed considerable difference. As of now I'm sticking with. 18 pil tick patch mink oil lube
Still getting the fill of the rifle, (and I
Have a question guys the patches
Both types are when started cut
The edge of the patch all the way around and the threads go down
The barrel, these are about size of a
Nickel, I'm thinking this could hinder
Accuracy, is thinking correct?
And 3 shot group, with a quarter
Is that good, bad, or ugly??
Chim in guys need the input.
Tin Spot
Not sure what you mean about your patches. But if the the edges are frayed that's not necessary bad as long as it's not cut, torn, or burnt threw. If your getting quarter size group that's a head shot on a squirrel, play with your powder charge see if you can tighten it up a bit.
 
Not sure what you mean about your patches. But if the the edges are frayed that's not necessary bad as long as it's not cut, torn, or burnt threw. If your getting quarter size group that's a head shot on a squirrel, play with your powder charge see if you can tighten it up a bit.
Thanks Duk, I cut these patches nickel size that's 7/8 in. I'm thinking
Maybe a little big, I'm as were conversating recutting down to 3/4
Inch diameter. What I was referring to my patch was going around my
Ball starter then sent the long end
These rifleings are sharp and it cuts
The outside edge of the patch, and
It winds up down the barrel on top
Of my load, question is is it getting in
The rifling and effecting accuracy.
 
Thanks Duk, I cut these patches nickel size that's 7/8 in. I'm thinking
Maybe a little big, I'm as were conversating recutting down to 3/4
Inch diameter. What I was referring to my patch was going around my
Ball starter then sent the long end
These rifleings are sharp and it cuts
The outside edge of the patch, and
It winds up down the barrel on top
Of my load, question is is it getting in
The rifling and effecting accuracy.
I cut mine at 3/4 seems to work pretty good. Some off the patches you buy are bigger than 3/4 I can't say that it hurts accuracy but I bet it don't help. Some guys cut patches at the barrel and their not all exactly the same size, and it don't seem to affect accuracy.
 
I cut mine at 3/4 seems to work pretty good. Some off the patches you buy are bigger than 3/4 I can't say that it hurts accuracy but I bet it don't help. Some guys cut patches at the barrel and their not all exactly the same size, and it don't seem to affect accuracy.
Yes there are, larger, I went back and
Recut, to 3/4. That's taking 1/8 off., still have some work to do, it is shooting to the right. 2 1/4. Or so. Have to make and adj.
As far as elevation, on the money.at
25yrd.
As far as powder charge may drop
A couple grn's to 18, I will say
That little rifle fells good and handles
Good and fun to shoot.
 
ETipp , shot this evening, 25yrds
With 15 thou and 18 tick patches
As of now, .018 pil tick lubed with
Mink oil patch lube, 3 shots. 2 of 3
Cut holes 3 shot not quite, all three
With in quarter size group. The ,015
Pre cut and lubed considerable difference. As of now I'm sticking with. 18 pil tick patch mink oil lube
Still getting the fill of the rifle, (and I
Have a question guys the patches
Both types are when started cut
The edge of the patch all the way around and the threads go down
The barrel, these are about size of a
Nickel, I'm thinking this could hinder
Accuracy, is thinking correct?
And 3 shot group, with a quarter
Is that good, bad, or ugly??
Chim in guys need the input.
Tin Spot
Some time back I ran out of pre cuts. I cut 3/4x3/4 square patches from .018 pillow ticking ( washed in hot water only twice and ran through the dryer high heat), never really paid much attention to top or bottom of patch. I lube right from the can of mink oil. Shoot groups I grin about. And I can cut a pile of patches with my fabric cutter quicker than a jackrabbit on a date.
 
Some time back I ran out of pre cuts. I cut 3/4x3/4 square patches from .018 pillow ticking ( washed in hot water only twice and ran through the dryer high heat), never really paid much attention to top or bottom of patch. I lube right from the can of mink oil. Shoot groups I grin about. And I can cut a pile of patches with my fabric cutter quicker than a jackrabbit on a date.
These I have already round patch
But for 40 cal, so I cut them down
First nickel size witch is 7/8 in
They were grabbing short starter
Then they would cut the edges
Of the patch (little shreds of patch
From the outside of the patch, so
I recut at 3/4 in, and I lubed just
Like you said (right out of the can)
Shooting again tomorrow, thank you
For the tip, I really like this Crockett.
 
Thanks Duk, I cut these patches nickel size that's 7/8 in. I'm thinking
Maybe a little big, I'm as were conversating recutting down to 3/4
Inch diameter. What I was referring to my patch was going around my
Ball starter then sent the long end
These rifleings are sharp and it cuts
The outside edge of the patch, and
It winds up down the barrel on top
Of my load, question is is it getting in
The rifling and effecting accuracy.
I wonder if your short starter is too big in diameter and binding your patch? To shift your patch as described, that will affect your accuracy if bare lead (almost typed bare ball🤣) is touching the rifling. As mentioned in the other reply, the 3/4x3/4 is about perfect in my Crockett. I use a 7/8x7/8 square patch in my .36 caliber Sadie (shout out to GSML). Take her slow 10 spot, when you do find that balance, that Crockett will become one of your favorite rifles. I'd be willing to bet 2 fingers of premium amber liquid on it.
 
I wonder if your short starter is too big in diameter and binding your patch? To shift your patch as described, that will affect your accuracy if bare lead (almost typed bare ball🤣) is touching the rifling. As mentioned in the other reply, the 3/4x3/4 is about perfect in my Crockett. I use a 7/8x7/8 square patch in my .36 caliber Sadie (shout out to GSML). Take her slow 10 spot, when you do find that balance, that Crockett will become one of your favorite rifles. I'd be willing to bet 2 fingers of premium amber liquid on it.
I don't think it is? But that was with 7/8 in patch, I'm shooting the 3/4 in
Tomorrow, well see. And thank you, snakebite. All info is appreciated
.
 
Yes there are, larger, I went back and
Recut, to 3/4. That's taking 1/8 off., still have some work to do, it is shooting to the right. 2 1/4. Or so. Have to make and adj.
As far as elevation, on the money.at
25yrd.
As far as powder charge may drop
A couple grn's to 18, I will say
That little rifle fells good and handles
Good and fun to shoot.
10, before you mess with the front sight I highly recommend you adjust where you place the crescent on your shoulder/arm. Personally, and (Lord only knows why) I find the Crockett rifle prefers to have the crescent just touching the upper part (towards my body) of my bicep. I went through the same thing you did until I figured it out. 2 1/4” at 25 yards is a lot, too much, IMO.

My GPR has basically the same style crescent but does not share the same trait as both of my Crockett’s. Both (actually all three) of my crescent stocked ML’s front sights are dead center the barrel.
 
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ETipp , shot this evening, 25yrds
With 15 thou and 18 tick patches
As of now, .018 pil tick lubed with
Mink oil patch lube, 3 shots. 2 of 3
Cut holes 3 shot not quite, all three
With in quarter size group. The ,015
Pre cut and lubed considerable difference. As of now I'm sticking with. 18 pil tick patch mink oil lube
Still getting the fill of the rifle, (and I
Have a question guys the patches
Both types are when started cut
The edge of the patch all the way around and the threads go down
The barrel, these are about size of a
Nickel, I'm thinking this could hinder
Accuracy, is thinking correct?
And 3 shot group, with a quarter
Is that good, bad, or ugly??
Chim in guys need the input.
Tin Spot
I'm not completely clear on what you mean with your ticking. If its what I think you mean, and you are shooting a relatively tight group, then it matters not. IMO, 3 shots within the size of a quarter (25 cent piece) is acceptable for starting out.

There could be some sharp edges on the crown area. One way to find this out, and perhaps is the best way, is to inspect the cleaning patches. If they are cut, then you most likely have sharp edges somewhere in the bore. I use old, white Tee shirts cut to size. If there is a sharp edge(s) somewhere in the bore, those will darn sure show it. Had that happen in my GPR. The only way I knew about it was by finding cut places on the Tee shirt cleaning patches.

In terms of the ticking and fraying a little around the edges "Before shooting them" then it could simply be that particular batch of ticking material. As in age, weave, quality, etc. I have never ran across what you are describing, to the best of my memory, but I suppose it may have occurred. As long as the accuracy is there, as well as no bad fliers, then I wouldn't be concerned about it.

As you most likely already know, finding and inspecting previous shot patches is where most attention should be focused, IMO. Fraying around the edges will most likely be present. However, as long as the material is not burnt through, blown apart or have definite cut places where the ball rides, you are golden.

It to my belief that anytime any of the items listed above is found (other than the frayed edges) that is where fliers come from. In other words, and for simplicity, if you find 6 previously shot patches and one is damaged, yet the other 5 have maintained integrity, that one single patch that failed might very well be suspect of a flier. For best possible accuracy, you want every fired and recovered patch to be in good condition. If we ascertain this, then we just eliminated a variable.

From my findings, unless there is something wrong with the .018" ticking (lubed with TOTW Mink Oil) you would be hard pressed to experience any issues listed above when shooting 20.0 grains of 3F Swiss.
 
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I'm not completely clear on what you mean with your ticking. If its what I think you mean, and you are shooting a relatively tight group, then it matters not. IMO, 3 shots within the size of a quarter (25 cent piece) is acceptable for starting out.

There could be some sharp edges on the crown area. One way to find this out, and perhaps is the best way, is to inspect the cleaning patches. If they are cut, then you most likely have sharp edges somewhere in the bore. I use old, white Tee shirts cut to size. If there is a sharp edge(s) somewhere in the bore, those will darn sure show it. Had that happen in my GPR. The only way I knew about it was by finding cut places on the Tee shirt cleaning patches.

In terms of the ticking and fraying a little around the edges "Before shooting them" then it could simply be that particular batch of ticking material. As in age, weave, quality, etc. I have never ran across what you are describing, to the best of my memory, but I suppose it may have occurred. As long as the accuracy is there, as well as no bad fliers, then I wouldn't be concerned about it.

As you most likely already know, finding and inspecting previous shot patches is where most attention should be focused, IMO. Fraying around the edges will most likely be present. However, as long as the material is not burnt through, blown apart or have definite cut places where the ball rides, you are golden.

It to my belief that anytime any of the items listed above is found (other than the frayed edges) that is where fliers come from. In other words, and for simplicity, if you find 6 previously shot patches and one is damaged, yet the other 5 have maintained integrity, that one single patch that failed might very well be suspect of a flier. For best possible accuracy, you want every fired and recovered patch to be in good condition. If we ascertain this, then we just eliminated a variable.

From my findings, unless there is something wrong with the .018" ticking (lubed with TOTW Mink Oil) you would be hard pressed to experience any issues listed above when shooting 20.0 grains of 3F Swiss.
I 'll. Try the shoulder/arm placement
And I have recut my patches to 3/4 in
Diameter. And I am swabbing between each shot and I'll be shooting
From a table with a adjustable front rest. And I'll collect patches I'm not
Exactly understanding how the crescent effects. Windage
My elevation is dead on. Windage
That's is to the right. 2- 1/4. In
Thanks ETipp, I was waiting for
Your reply on my first round of
Site in.
 
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