Advice for shaping stock...

[Crewdawg445]

I've hit a wall... I've recently been building a simple traditions shenandoah kit strictly dedicated for squirrel season. I decided to shave down the stock flat with the barrel flats due to numerous imperfections in the precarved stock. The left side of the stock had so much more wood than the left, that no matter what I did, it was still extremely noticeable and unpleasant. So... IMO, I went drastic and slimmed the entire stock to match the barrel flats. Now my dilemma is trying to shape what little I have to allow a decent looking rifle. Not to worried about having a show piece as the squirrels certainly will not care... However, still want something to be happy with. Without a doubt, these stocks definitely are a far cry from good wood... Any suggestions?

 

[gunmaker43]

Just round it off in a slight curve from edge of bbl. over and down to edge of rod groove. Like a 1/4 circle viewed from muzzle. That canteen cup takes me back to my mis-spent youth....Tom

 

[Crewdawg445]

Sounds good, simple. The canteen cup was from my latest issue of field gear... Makes a great all around everything cup!

 

[Col. Batguano]

You should only have about 1/16" of wood where it contacts the barrel flat. You might even think about taking your flat coverage down to 40-45%. Some schools like the Bethlehem school are even less than that, like around 30%.

 

[ZUG]

I think you are doing a fine job of it. Go slowly - check often - easer to take wood off then to put it back on :haha: . Remember that you will be sanding or scraping those file marks out so the stock will get thinner :wink: . Keep up with the picture progress .

 

[Claycow]

So, i'd been wondering what to mix my stain and other oils in. Metal tins are cheap from army surplus, would the metal effect anything in oils or stains? Or do I have to buy expensive glassware

 

[Tinker2]

So, i'd been wondering what to mix my stain and other oils in. Metal tins are cheap from army surplus, would the metal effect anything in oils or stains? Or do I have to buy expensive glassware

An old peanut butter jar with a lid works for me”ƒ
:slap:



William Alexander

 

[Crewdawg445]

ff

 

[Crewdawg445]

Thanks! I've honestly never taken the wood down this far... Just looks to entirely square for me.

Any tricks on rounding the forend? Trying to rationalize the process.

 

[Elnathan]

Thanks! I've honestly never taken the wood down this far... Just looks to entirely square for me.

Any tricks on rounding the forend? Trying to rationalize the process.

Work in flats, just like you would make a square cross-section round by turning it to octagon, then sixteen-sided, before rounding it completely. The same principle applies here.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Take the top side down to the vertical coverage line or point before you start your rounding.

Rasps are less prone to create tear-out than gouges and planes. As you know, curly maple is particularly prone to tear out, so be sure to pay attention to grain direction.

In rounding, use one of those long handled 2-handed Japanese rasps, as well as the regular tang type. You'll need the tang type around the transition of the entry pipe. Make long parallel strokes with them to help keep waviness to a minimum, and go slow. Patience is the art of keeping going when your mind wants to say it's good enough to move on.

It wouldn't hurt to make yourself a hardboard profile template to check yourself against, but in the end, conformity with the plans' profile is less important than if it just looks right, is pretty close to what's right for the school, and balanced on both sides.

 

[Josh Wrightsman]

I use a 10" Nicholson double cut half round file without a handle on it. Use it lightly to rough the forestock to shape. Once you get close to finished size use the file parallel with the stock. This will help remove any wavy areas. This works really well for me. The double cut file isn't as aggressive as a rasp but cuts much easier then a standard file.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I've got the same file and do use the tequnique you mentioned. However, the main issue now is with the amount of wood I've removed, it doesn't leave much room to play with... When I started to remove wood, the big imperfections started to show. Now I'm left with the entire stock slimmed down to match the width of the barrel. This is true throughout the entire length of the stock, just before the lock panels. Essentially, I've got what I'd call a less than perfect work piece. So at this point I'm trying to figure out what the best option would be for shaping/ contouring the stock with what's left. Hopefully the attached images will yield a better look at what I'm trying to explain.

Here is a better view from the rear of the rifle.

Barrel and stock.

 

[BigBoreBLR]

Personally, I'd take very little off at the point. I'd make a profile sander. Make something the shape your going after and use it to back the sand paper. Go slowly and use a 2ft long or so straight edge.

I like the ramrod to be tucked in a touch for a look.

Wet that wood with a wet rag to let the wiskers stick out.

Stay with more or less what the profile is for now and take off a little bit.

On a 2nd thought, why not just make a new stock for it if the gun shoots well. Maybe traditions sells one for cheap, or widdle your own.

I bet alot of gun builders would sell you a channeled stock that would work with your barrel.

 

[Claycow]

Sorry. I saw your metal tin can and got all excited!

 

[Crewdawg445]

I'm actually thinking about ordering a new stock from TOW, better wood IMO would be a good investment. Not all all happy with the stock, however for the price that's to be expected.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Anyone aware of another source for a pre-carved stock? TOW is out of the Southern mountain style that I think may be a good fit... not spending $200.00 on a stock for this particular build. Plan on using the factory lock that's with the rifle as I see nothing wrong it it's function or style.

 

[Claycow]

Maybe rifleshoppe?

 

[Pete G]

If you don't like the prices at TOW you're not going to like Rifleshoppe either.

 

[gunmaker43]

As this is a learning experience, go with a slim piece of wood glued to each side so you can get a good arc from rod to bbl. May not be "purtty" but will do the job---this time. Tightbond II is stronger than wood. Use a dark stain and will be almost invisible. I learned this same lesson on a 20 bore. Good luck.....Tom