Well my Tennessee Mountain Rifle arrived yesterday from Pecatonica. After opening the box, pulling out all the parts, and examining the work ahead of me. I decided it wise to consult my new copy of Recreating the Pennsylvania Longrifle for a place to begin. The inletting of the barrel and tang. I also thought I would post the question for you all of more experience with these projects. What areas when inletting for such a large piece can I run into troubles that cause me major grief? Thanks for your advise on this first build.
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And So It Begins........
- Thread starter pdt1793db
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Welcome to the sickness, building guns is like eating potato chips its hard to stop at one.
The biggest thing is to take your time, slow and stead. If you get tired, or frustrated put it away work on something else.
Some tips about inletting the barrel/tang. Remeber with inletting balck a little goes a long way think thin coat. You want good contact between the rear of the barrel and stock. Try not to lift the barrel out by the muzzle as it will give you a false mark at the top of barrel on the wood and the bottom of the inlet. Its better to tap it out on to a pad on the work bench. The same is epecially true with the tang it you lift at the muzzle you'll always get a mark at the rear.
The biggest thing is to take your time, slow and stead. If you get tired, or frustrated put it away work on something else.
Some tips about inletting the barrel/tang. Remeber with inletting balck a little goes a long way think thin coat. You want good contact between the rear of the barrel and stock. Try not to lift the barrel out by the muzzle as it will give you a false mark at the top of barrel on the wood and the bottom of the inlet. Its better to tap it out on to a pad on the work bench. The same is epecially true with the tang it you lift at the muzzle you'll always get a mark at the rear.
jp grabski
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If you have set triggers watch your placement or you may have to set the trigger every time. The barrel on my southern mountain was very tight be careful when removing the barrel. I use lamp black for inletting, is a bit messy but works very well. If you use a forward lock bolt make sure it is not in the ramrod channel.
ehoff is right about the tipping of the barrel at the muzzsle giving false readings of contact at the tang or breech. I solder a plate of brass to the barrel in front of the tang, to the top flat, and use that to lift the barrel out at the breech (wooden peg in the muzzle also).
Before proceeding make sure you know where the front of the breechplug is, where you want the touchhole, and then where you want the lock. I'd also determine the depth of the web between the barrel channel and ramrod hole near the front lock bolt before going further. Drill a 1/16" hole down into the bottom flat inlet into the ramrod hole. Stick in a tight fitting rod, and use a piece of wire or the 1/16" drill to determine how thick the web is. this will tell you how much room there is for the front lock bolt, and whether you could inlet the barrel deeper if you wanted to.
Before proceeding make sure you know where the front of the breechplug is, where you want the touchhole, and then where you want the lock. I'd also determine the depth of the web between the barrel channel and ramrod hole near the front lock bolt before going further. Drill a 1/16" hole down into the bottom flat inlet into the ramrod hole. Stick in a tight fitting rod, and use a piece of wire or the 1/16" drill to determine how thick the web is. this will tell you how much room there is for the front lock bolt, and whether you could inlet the barrel deeper if you wanted to.
Ok Ive started some work the inletting black does go a long way. the issue that im running into is I feel the barrel is seated at the bottom of the stock. Yet I have a small gap at the top of the barrel on each side at the base of the tang. I have not yet bent the tang. I feel this will settle out as I fit other parts like the rest of the barrel and bend the tang plus carve for it. The stock has had some inletting done so I have a basis for where the lock will go. Any thoughts?
You can inlet the barrel farther back to eliminate the gap, assuming this does not cause problems with lock placement. Get the barrel inlet perfectly w/o the breechplug in place first. Then screw the breechplug with tang back in. Bend to the profile you want, and inlet that next.
hoochiepapa
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Pics would help. 
hotoSmile:
hotoSmile:good advise I inletted very carfully now its nice and snug. I guess next I'll bend the tang and inlet that. How do you inlet the slots for the tennons do you drill first to a certain depth or do you use inletting black and gouge a slot?
Ok Ill add photos give me a bit the wife stole my camera for work ill put some on tonight
Ok Ill add photos give me a bit the wife stole my camera for work ill put some on tonight
Regarding tenons I have decided I want the inlets to go all the way through to the ramrod channel and the tenons to nearly fill the slot. This just prevents heartache of trying to preserve a paper-thin piece of wood between the ramrod and the tenon. I do use a drill to get started at the ends. If I had a drill press I might drill a series of holes then chisel it out. Others may be horrified :nono: that I let the tenon inlets into the ramrod channel. But I am a man of thin webs. :rotf:
IF.... you have a Lock Inlet. Stop Right Now... & inlet the lock at least 75% of the way so it is For Sure where it is going to stay. I usually go about 90% of the way.
Then mark the breechplugh depth on the Outside of the barrel on the flat that will be against the flashpan.
Then set the barrel back far enough in the stock for the vent liner to clear the breechplug threads & align the vent liner to the center of the pan. (If you are going to use a vent liner)
If you have a preinlet lock, you can not move the lock inlet enough to make any justification. But you CAN move the barrel where you need it to go to get proper vent liner location to the flashpan.
After that is done, go back to inletting the barrel Without the tang.
Get that done & then add the tang to the barrel, bend it to conform to the stock & wrist & inlet the tang.
Then do the Underlugs & get the barrel pinned in.
Then finish the lock inlet & get the lock bolted in.
Then inlet the trigger asm & get it in & the tang screw to the lockplate.
If you Do NOT have a lock inlet, you can put the lock pretty much where ya want it, within reason...
Keith Lisle
Then mark the breechplugh depth on the Outside of the barrel on the flat that will be against the flashpan.
Then set the barrel back far enough in the stock for the vent liner to clear the breechplug threads & align the vent liner to the center of the pan. (If you are going to use a vent liner)
If you have a preinlet lock, you can not move the lock inlet enough to make any justification. But you CAN move the barrel where you need it to go to get proper vent liner location to the flashpan.
After that is done, go back to inletting the barrel Without the tang.
Get that done & then add the tang to the barrel, bend it to conform to the stock & wrist & inlet the tang.
Then do the Underlugs & get the barrel pinned in.
Then finish the lock inlet & get the lock bolted in.
Then inlet the trigger asm & get it in & the tang screw to the lockplate.
If you Do NOT have a lock inlet, you can put the lock pretty much where ya want it, within reason...
Keith Lisle
Ok Im trying to get these photos uploaded but im not very technology capable. Ok part of the problem is that the kit came with the breach plug already installed now Im wishing I had not got the option. Should I uninstall it? if so how?
STOP.... You have the cart ahead of the horse...
Go back up & READ what I posted earlier & do it as I said & save yourself ALLOT of possible frustration.
From what I see, you have no idea where the breechface is, thus you are guessing where the vent hole is going to be, rather than Making it Go Where You Need it.
And, you will need to Unbreech the barrel, just like everyone else does when they build a rifle.
Keith Lisle
:shake:
Go back up & READ what I posted earlier & do it as I said & save yourself ALLOT of possible frustration.
From what I see, you have no idea where the breechface is, thus you are guessing where the vent hole is going to be, rather than Making it Go Where You Need it.
And, you will need to Unbreech the barrel, just like everyone else does when they build a rifle.
Keith Lisle
:shake:
Ft. Jefferson
40 Cal.
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One little thing i'd like to add here. I NEVER start to work on a piece of wood until it's had a minimum of 4 months, laid away, to dry and season completely. Nearly every precarve i've ever used without proper drying time will shrink over the next year or so and leave metal parts standing proud. Just my .02 worth. Buzzard
Guest
You need to listen to Rich, and Keith. Pull the breech, mark on the lock side where the breech face is, and where the touch hole will be, accounting for a liner if you are going to use one. from what I see in the pic's the barrel may have to move back at least 1/8 " That's the problem with, and why I don't have a lock inlet on a precarve stock. After you get the barrel inlet you can inlet the tang without the barrel, then mate them. I would recommend that you don't shape anything, until everything is inlet. then remove about 15% of the wood on that thing. Keith is one of the Masters of the Southern Mountain rifle, and he wants you to be successful, as do all of us There are plenty of clubs out there with barrels attached Don't make one of them, when you have the help you have here.
Bill
Bill
Thanks guys I really appriciate your advise. Now I'm wishing I had used more of a stock blank than a precarve and left the tang uninstalled. But hey live and learn I guess. Ill use your advise Rich and Keith I guess I got excited it got here and wanted to start work. Any other advise I would be happy to listen to.
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Your most important tool is patience. Learn to take it easy, and slow. Run into a problem, step back, and come ask a question.
Bill
Bill
