Another .36 cal Rifle from a Plank

[longcruise]

Fast forward nine years and I have a little time between rocket testing contracts to start in on another rifle...

So..... After all my fruitless struggles, I finally find out that it IS rocket science.

That trick with the pivot tower for the trigger is pure gold.

 

[davec2]

I completed the barrel keys. As I have done in the past, I milled a slot in the body of the keys and then riveted a very thin leaf spring in the slot. Eliminates the issue of fitting keys "just right" and then having things wear or having the change in humidity make the keys too loose or to tight.





Still haven't decided where to go with engraving and carving on this rifle.....so, as usual, I'm just going to "wing it" and start in. The designs will have to grow and morph as they develop. First step was to put on the lower butt stock molding lines. I used a trick I learned here on ALR to lay them out this time. I used a strip of label maker tape to establish the first line and then just ran a small knife edge file along the tape for a few strokes......worked great....



After the initial groove was established, I used a tiny bead scraper I made to make the second line and shape the bead......



Then decided I would do something different with the cheek piece edge. I usually do some sort of concave / convex molding. This time I ran two beads (with the same scraper) and then did a rope like decoration on a convex surface between the beads.....don't know if I like it yet...?





While I'm deciding, I went ahead with the lock panel molding start.......

 

[PathfinderNC]

Dave, I boggles my mind at your artistic talent and skills. You certainly are an inspiration

 

[davec2]

One thing I forgot to take pictures of when I was shaping the butt area around the cheek piece.....for the first time I used this.....



Like a computer, this angle grinder, with a 36 grit disk, will allow one to screw things up at the speed of light. However, I hate removing the wood on the cheek piece side in slow motion with chisels so I thought I would try this method. It worked great to rapidly remove a lot of unwanted wood and get me very close to a surface that did not take much additional wood removal with a small spoke shave and scrapers to get this.....besides, I am old enough where I can't afford to move too slowly. Eight bells might call me out before I get the next rifle done...



So....on with a little more peripheral carving while trying to decide on some major carving issues....Using the same technique as the molding on the lower edge of the butt, I ran a molding bead along the fore stock upper edge from the lock beaver tail to the rear ram rod pipe.






I also took a whack at a sketch of the carving around the barrel breach tang.....Haven't decided if i like it yet....



While I am deciding, I made up the hinge for the patch box. In other posts I have explained how and why I do this, b ut is has become my usual method for making a patch box hinge and is, to me, much simpler and less trouble than bending the knuckles out of the box plates themselves. First step is the take two pieces of 1/8" brass rod and drill them lengthwise with a 1/16" through hole, and then cut two pieces of 1/16" thick pieces of brass plate ~ 3/8" wide and 1 1/2" long.





The two rods are then silver brazed to the edges of the plates....





Acid pickled and cleaned up......



Cutting and filing the knuckles.......



Finished hinge. I will show later how this hinge is prepared for and attached to the box parts in a historically correct manner.

 

[davec2]

Making a side plate is not really any big deal (unless elaborately carved and cast in silver like some of Smart Dog’s plates) but is often a bit of a challenge from both the design and the size standpoint. Unless you purchase a side plate that has the hole spacing that is compatible with the lock you are using, you will have to make or modify a side plate.

The design is often an issue for me as well. I know it is not required, but I like to match the lock side and the side plate side stock profiles. I do that by first inletting the lock where I want it, drilling and tapping for the lock bolts, and then shaping the area all around the lock. Then I take a piece of clear mylar type material and punch two holes in it that line up with the lock bolts. I put the plastic sheet in place with the lock bolts and trace around the lock molding with a fine tipped Sharpie on the plastic. The plastic is then cut out with scissors on the traced line and placed on the opposite side of the gun, again using the lock bolts for alignment, so that its outline can be traced on that side of the gun.

Often, for me at least, various side plated designs just don’t look good with the panel outline. I end up making many sketches of potential side plates before I settle in on one that is both a design that I like and that balances with the space available on the stock panel. Here are a couple of pictures of the mylar template…..







And here is the side plate being cut out of 0.090” thick brass stock with a jeweler’s saw….








The finished plate (minus the engraving to come yet).

 

[davec2]

I did get the side plate installed (inlet ....or is it "inletted"?) last night.....