Hi Folks. Is "Anti seize grease" all the same? I have been using "Permatex" but after 20 shots my nipple is extremely hard to remove.
Anti seize grease
- Thread starter Kiwi Hawkeye
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Uncle Miltie
50 Cal.
Some types of Permatex products are made to lock fasteners in place. A good oil is all I use.
I don't have a particular favorite. I use whatever kind of plain old grease that I have in the barn, (white lithium) is what I have right now.
If I'm burning black powder, no issues. Triple 7 does seem to grab onto the nipple threads more.
If I'm burning black powder, no issues. Triple 7 does seem to grab onto the nipple threads more.
Stop removing the nipple!
Always remove the nipple!
leadhoarder
45 Cal.
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No. Antiseize grease can be made from various base materials.
Over the years I have used anti-seize made with a couple of different bases, choke tube lube, CVA nipple grease, MP ("chassis grease") grease, teflon tape and nothing and never had any problems removing a nipple.
never seize is often in silver or copper. If I remember the copper is for hi temp I believe permatex makes both styles
hanshi
Cannon
If you remove the nipple when you clean lube the threads and DO NOT tighten it down. I have a couple of antiseize greases and the nipples on my rifles are not cinched down, snug is all you need. If you don't remove the nipple that problem will be bypassed. Overtight is the enemy of a muzzleloader.
Thanx for all the replies. It might be as "Deermanok" says. I used Triple 7
Anti-seize is used to prevent the molecular bond that can occur when metal comes in contact with metal. That bond is as strong as a weld and can be really hard to break.
If you just want to tighten the nipple and not have it fall out, use Loctite 242 (its's a blue liquid). It will hold the nipple in place and you will be able to easily remove it.
If you just want to tighten the nipple and not have it fall out, use Loctite 242 (its's a blue liquid). It will hold the nipple in place and you will be able to easily remove it.
I use a copper based anti seize from Loctite. A friend worked on a tug boat and they is what they used to keep things free on the tug. They operated in salt water.
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
I just use oil. Always pull and clean my nipple, and never tighten it down. Just a light snug.
Walk
Walk
I use RIG and never have a problem removing a nipple. I do use copper never seize lube on some non-mentionable slide points.
Mobil1 pure synthetic. It's a pink grease and you only need a tiny dot on the threads then install the nipple.
And yes, you should always remove the nipple when cleaning. The nipple is a wear item just like the tires on your car. Replace regularly and tighten only till snug.
And yes, you should always remove the nipple when cleaning. The nipple is a wear item just like the tires on your car. Replace regularly and tighten only till snug.
when I clean a cap lock rifle I use tubing that fits over the nipple then into a bottle with warm soapy water. using a tight patch when drawn out sucks the water out of the bottle and when pushed down fills the bottle. after going back and forth barrel and nipple area are clean. I just take the nipple out and wipe the threads down never got stuck
I have a tube of TC anti-seize, seems to work well. Not over tighten is the key in my humble opinion.
It's definitely not all the same, but for this application it's probably all the same.
What I mean by that is, there are a lot of different types of anti-seize compounds with different properties. They're usually some type of friction modifier suspended in a grease. A few are molybdenum disulfide (moly), copper, graphite, aluminum, chalk, etc. They all have different applications regarding the base metals and the amount of torque you're applying. At work, we use Moly 503 and regularly torque things to 20,000 ft-lb.
That said, with a muzzleloader nipple all you're really doing is applying a grease-like substance to keep the fouling out of the threads. There are no exotic or very dissimilar metals involved, you're not (or shouldn't be) torquing it enough to gall the threads, and it shouldn't be allowed to rust together.
I've used anti-seize, bore butter, Crisco, and petroleum jelly on nipples, all with good results.
What I mean by that is, there are a lot of different types of anti-seize compounds with different properties. They're usually some type of friction modifier suspended in a grease. A few are molybdenum disulfide (moly), copper, graphite, aluminum, chalk, etc. They all have different applications regarding the base metals and the amount of torque you're applying. At work, we use Moly 503 and regularly torque things to 20,000 ft-lb.
That said, with a muzzleloader nipple all you're really doing is applying a grease-like substance to keep the fouling out of the threads. There are no exotic or very dissimilar metals involved, you're not (or shouldn't be) torquing it enough to gall the threads, and it shouldn't be allowed to rust together.
I've used anti-seize, bore butter, Crisco, and petroleum jelly on nipples, all with good results.
Ferryboatcaptain
40 Cal
Got my first muzzleloader 40 years ago .Still shooting it . NEVER used grease on it anywhere. Several years ago bought a quart of synthetic motor oil to lube all my guns with . No problems. I remove the nipple every time I clean and have never had a issue.
