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Ball sucking

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That's a most unfortunate title to this thread...
:ghostly:

I must concur. It sounds related to the act of bringing tea with you on the hunt in your possibbles. Aren't you glad I let the "Ramrod Battered Balls" post go.
Romrod Battered Balls.png
 
Maybe, but I like the guy already. He should fit in just fine amongst the rest of the (us) reprobates around here.


That one's not much better and I know he didn't mean it (I think).
At least the OP's issue isn't making any funny noises in the process.........is it? :oops:

wm

LOL. Nope, I wasn't playing on the OP's Freudian slip. Just warn't much other way to say it.
 
As noted previously use a bigger diameter ball. Uberti uses a 0.380" ball where as Pietta uses a 0.375" diameter ball. Also your rammer may have a incorrect concave radius on it or a burr.
 
I experience this problem with a CVA Navy Revolver made by Armi San Marcos. I took it to my Muzzle Loader shop, and they said the plunger was made for conicals. That’s why it was deeper and kept sucking the balls back out of the cylinder. I replaced it with a Pietta part from EMF in California. While it’s not an exact fit, it solved the problem as that plunger is shallower.

I suppose I could have just filled the other one in with epoxy but thought I'd keep it intact for conicals.

Hope this helps!

Walt
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Probably could have used a different title, but it got your attention, you dirty old men.
I just went out and shoot 15 rounds through it, no problem. This time I loaded powder, ball, and lube over the ball.
I had a good look at the nose of the ram, and it's cone shaped, probably for bullets, not round balls. I think some epoxy will help.
Flycaster
 
Filler not needed if plinking. I just fill with corn meal to top over powder for my match revolvers with shortened rammers.Squirt in with a ketchup bottle so no need to measure. fast and easy...
I like “fill to the top” …. Rather than measure … I guess the ball compresses everything enough to get the right fit ….I have to eat more fries to try the ketchup bottle idea ..
 
I have fired 100's of .375 balls through my 2010ish production Uberti 1851 Navy .36, never once had this issue or in any other revolver.

The thin ring of lead is shaved and the chamber is still letting the ball creep forward under recoil and stick to the loading plunger?

I would think some kind of overly slippy lube is being used?

Like was said, try .380 balls.
 
Hi Guys,
Long time reader here. My first post. Got a question.
New 1861 Navy from Dixie. The rammer is pulling the balls back after loading over a lubed wad. Doesn't when I don't use the wad. .375 ball over 21 grains 3F Goex.
Also moved forward under recoil, preventing the chamber to come into battery, by the barrel.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Flycaster

Use a bigger ball.
And / or fill the concave part of the rammer with metal-set epoxy and file it level after it sets up.
 
Hi from the UK I have a Uberti Navy .36 and I had the same problem. I found out the Uberti rammer is machined to take conical's so purchased a Pietta rammer which fits the Uberti and that is machined to take a round ball which cured my problem and I also use .380 ball with filler and wad but no wax over the ball as it all disappears when you fire the first shot! Never had a cross fire.
 
Hi Guys,
Long time reader here. My first post. Got a question.
New 1861 Navy from Dixie. The rammer is pulling the balls back after loading over a lubed wad. Doesn't when I don't use the wad. .375 ball over 21 grains 3F Goex.
Also moved forward under recoil, preventing the chamber to come into battery, by the barrel.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Flycaster
Oh, that kind of ball sucking
 
Hi Guys,
Long time reader here. My first post. Got a question.
New 1861 Navy from Dixie. The rammer is pulling the balls back after loading over a lubed wad. Doesn't when I don't use the wad. .375 ball over 21 grains 3F Goex.
Also moved forward under recoil, preventing the chamber to come into battery, by the barrel.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Flycaster

Use a .380” ball,
Another solution is to THOROUGHLY degrease the inner concave part of the rammer and fill it with metal set epoxy, then dress the epoxy down to a flat surface when it fully hardens.
 
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