Bore Butter?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
To do that, Sir, would entail the use of a time machine. The 'crown' owns NO land here in UK - you are allowing your biased take on the British way of life to colour your imagination.

Please read - 'Historically, the properties now known as the Crown Estate were administered as possessions of the reigning monarch to help fund the business of governing the country. By the Civil List Act of 1760, King George III surrendered control over the Estate's revenues to the treasury, in order to relieve him from paying for the costs of the civil service, defence costs, the national debt, and his own personal debts, and, in return, to receive an annual grant known as the Civil List.'

As such, so called Crown Lands in all the colonies, including, specifically, Canada and Australasia, are similarly fall under the purview of the respective government.

The days of kings and queens sitting on thrones issuing laws and edicts here stopped on Tuesday, January 30th 1649, when King Charles I knelt in front of a crowd of his former subjects and suffered his head to be struck off.
I think it was a little before that. Richard needed a law from parliament they his nephews were illigetiment, ol’ Harry needed to try those who displeased him. And though the out come was a bit pre ordained at least he had to make the gesture.
ol chuck wouldn’t have had the war if hecould have just raised taxes on his own instead of that whole parliament thingy
 
I have used Bore Butter or its market equivalent to forty years. I have won a lot of matches using my .50 caliber TVM Early Virginia with 70 grains of 3F Goex patched with pillow ticking lubed with Bore Butter. I swab between shots, clean with hot soapy water flushed with boiling water, chased with WD-40 and dry patches, lubed for storage with Bore Butter on a patch. I have never had an issue with "old pre-lubed patches" or other such like. I make my own patches with .018 store-bought pillow ticking lubed with Bore Butter or commercial equivalent. No complaints here. I have never seen the issue with this product in my experience. But I only shoot 500-1,000 rounds per year.

ADK Bigfoot
 
To do that, Sir, would entail the use of a time machine. The 'crown' owns NO land here in UK - you are allowing your biased take on the British way of life to colour your imagination.

Please read - 'Historically, the properties now known as the Crown Estate were administered as possessions of the reigning monarch to help fund the business of governing the country. By the Civil List Act of 1760, King George III surrendered control over the Estate's revenues to the treasury, in order to relieve him from paying for the costs of the civil service, defence costs, the national debt, and his own personal debts, and, in return, to receive an annual grant known as the Civil List.'

As such, so called Crown Lands in all the colonies, including, specifically, Canada and Australasia, are similarly fall under the purview of the respective government.

The days of kings and queens sitting on thrones issuing laws and edicts here stopped on Tuesday, January 30th 1649, when King Charles I knelt in front of a crowd of his former subjects and suffered his head to be struck off.
Well said!
 
I've used bore butter since I started into muzzleloaders many moons ago. As a patch or bullet lube, it's fine. However, I learned early on that it's practically worthless as a bore protectant.
 
I use Lehigh Valley Lube . Left the gun loaded for weeks at a time. Never failed to fire and didn't make rust. This was my Pedersoli Kentucky. I also made beef suet and bees wax lube. Seems to work in my smoothbore.
 
I never had a problem with rust using Bore Butter to swab the barrel. What I did get was (I believe) a buildup of it in the breech area (dont know how) causing hang fires and ignition failures. I only use it for patch lube now. I use a good rust preventative gun oil in the bore, swabbed in well, and just swab it out before loading the gun. Problem solved.
 
I never had a problem with rust using Bore Butter to swab the barrel. What I did get was (I believe) a buildup of it in the breech area (dont know how) causing hang fires and ignition failures. I only use it for patch lube now. I use a good rust preventative gun oil in the bore, swabbed in well, and just swab it out before loading the gun. Problem solved.
I never had a rust problem with bore butter. However I have had some tube s
That was very thick and some that is very thin. I am far from an expert and will be the first to admit it. However weather it is good or not you use what is available. I don't comment much but I do enjoy reading all the posts and draw from the wealth of knowledge that is here.
 
I've been using it to fill the lube grooves on my .50 cal maxiballs for 25 years and love it for that application. My old crappy Traditions Hawken is a tack driver with that combination, and there's very little buildup in the barrel.

Recently got my first patched ball rifles and absolutely hate it for lubing the patches. Gunks the barrel up badly after only a few shots.

Whatever you shoot needs to really scrape the barrel on each shot if you're going to lube with bore butter or it builds up.
 
IMHO, Bore Butter works okay for lubing conicals but is lousy for lubing patches. Some love it and some hate it and I fall somewhere in-between, but a bit closer to the latter. Having gone through relationships with more lubes than I can count, this is what I've experienced. BB gummed up the rifle bore, was hard to clean and demanded a swab between loads. It's was also a poor rust preventative. Crisco/lard was a bit better though still not very good; TOW mink oil is excellent, however. Spit patch, Hoppes BP Lube, Black Solve, etc, works great. Wet patch lubes of various kinds are much superior.
 
One reasoning of the Bore Butter people was that it seasoned your bore, much like the seasoning of a pan. If this is true then getting many patches of brown stuff out might just be the "seasoning" coming out, in which case this might be a feature, not a bug (to quote the tech guys).
Is there an advantage to having a "seasoning"? Stripping my barrel down to bare steel might sound nice, but if it accelerates barrel wear then it aint better.
But then getting real sciency stuff out of a bunch of old guys like us might be asking too much.
Barrels are not cast iron and cannot be seasoned, that was the best advertisising ploy ever!
 
I posted this before in thread "bore Butter"

Old post on I have seen over the years.

I obviously borrowed it.

You have no idea how much humor has come out of Ox-Yoke's claims on the
1000 Shot Plus lube. To the point where some of us now call them
Ox-Joke. With any of my three BP rifles "an historic feat" is getting the
4th ball down the bore without resorting to a bigger hammer.
I'll run you through the full story since the snow has started to fall.
Lets go back to the early 1980's.

A shooter/buckskinner by the name of Young, living in California, went
to the range one day and forgot his patch lube. In utter desperation he
whips out a tube of Chap-Stick and smears it on a few patches. Lo &
Behold it worked better than the lube he had been using. Several of his
buddies tried his idea and reported it worked well. So Young then
tracked down the source of Chap- Stick which is a common lip balm
formulation that has been floating around since the late 19th century.
Chap-Stick is petrolatum (petroleum jelly) with 5% cetyl alcohol and
water. The cetyl alcohol acting as the emulsifyer. With the cetyl
alcohol the water forms minute beads within the petrolatum. Without the
cetyl alcohol you can't get the water to mix in any way with the
petrolatum. Huge quantities of cetyl alcohol are used in the production
of PVC emulsion resins used in kitchen flooring. (My old job was as an
R&D
Tech. on these resins.) The petrolatum is the moisture barrier and
carrier for a topical agent used to soothe chapped lips. The water
emulsified into the petrolatum reduces the drag of the "stick" when you
apply it to your lips and acts as the moisturizing agent. Young then
finds a place to buy Chap-Stick in bulk and packages it as Young Country
Arms 103 Lube. That his lube and Chap->Stick are identical in every
respect, right down to the color, suggested he simply bought from the
makers of Chap-Stick in bulk quantities. Now Ted Bottomly had started
Ox-Yoke and made pre-cut patches and packs of patch cloth. He wanted a
patch lube to round out his line. He bought the first Ox-Yoke lube from
Young. When I first saw them I was at the late C.P. Wood's house in West
Virginia. Woody was looking at a 4 ounce container
of Young Country 103 and a 3 ounce container of Ox-Yoke's patch lube.
Both were identical in every respect, including color. You paid the same
price for 3 ounces of Ox-Yoke's lube as you paid for 4 ounces of Young's
lube. The logical conclusion would be that Ox-Yoke was buying from Young
and the missing ounce was Ox-Yoke's profit on the deal.

Both were advertising their respective lubes in the magazines. Young
advertised that you could fire a hundred rounds without wiping the bore
with his lube. Three months later, Ox-Yoke would advertise that when you
used their lube you could fire 200 rounds without wiping the bore. The 3
month lag time in the mags being the lag time in getting adds scheduled.
This went on, each one upping the ante, so to speak.
Those of us connected with the Buckskin Report discussed this in letters
and thought it a great joke.

The others in the field at that time were Hodgdon with their "Spit-Patch"
which was nothing more than beeswax emulsified in water with a soap.
Then there was T/C Maxi-Lube which was nothing more than the same
petroleum grease they used to grease the bearings in their machines.
Blue and Grey products was selling an automotive wheel bearing grease
that had been pigmented, not dyed, blue. I receieved several letters from
Doc Carlson. He was seeing BP muzzleloaders come into his shop with
balls or slugs stuck in the bore just ahead of the powder charge. You
could not pull these projectiles by any normal method.
He would have to remove the breech plugs, pull the charge and beat them
out of the bore, toward the muzzle with a heavy rod and a hammer. He
described the presence of a black tar-like film in the bore where the
projectiles had been frozen in place. The common thread in this being
that the shooter had used one of the "petroleum-based" lubes. I had to
explain to Doc that the petroleum greases were nothing more than
petroleum lubricating oils that had been "bodied" by the addition of
metallic soaps such as calcium or cadmium stearate. With a petroleum
lubricating oil, or grease, anytime you heat them to a high temperature
in the presence of sulfur you get asphalt. The way asphalts were
produced was to take crude oil and sulfur in an autoclave. Heat the
mixture to 600 degrees for about 8 hours
and you had road tar. Which is about what was happening in the gun.
Since the repackaged Chap-Stick was a petroleum wax it did not form
asphalt with sulfur and high temperatures. I then wrote an article for
the Backwoodsman magazine and compared the behavior of the two Chap-Stick
lubes to the behavior of sperm whale oil when it had been used in black
powder guns.

Well, Old Ted Bottomly jumped right onto that one. three months later
he starts advertising that his lube is "all-natural, non-petroleum" and
authentic, using what our ancesters had used. At that point I figured
his parents were to Christian to call him ******* so they settled for
Bottomly. By about 1984, Bottomly and Young had a falling out over
pricing. The one ounce shy thing with Ox-Yoke pushed most of the
customers to Young's lube. Same thing, same price but more of it with
Young Country 103. And by this time we were up to 800 rounds between
swabbings. Technology marches on. Bottomy came out with his first Wonder
Lube. Years of research went into this lube, or so he claimed. Now at
this time Ox-Yoke was located in West Suffield, CT. A short time later I
was searching the drugstore shelves looking for petrolatum-based skin
care products or salves that I coulde repackage and become a millionaire
. I spotted this tube of something
called "Mineral Ice". Menthol in petrolatum. Made by a Dermatone
Laboratories located in Suffield, CT. Out comes the map. just by a
mere coincidence both companies were located just across the river from
each other. This of course raised doubts as to the "years of research"
comments out of Bottomly. The new Wonder Lube went into the lab. Proved
to be mineral oil, paraffin wax, a yellow dye and oil of wintergreen. A
book at work on fats, waxes and oils nailed this one down to a common
chest rub preparation for those with head colds who could not tolerate
camphorated oil. Again it was billed as "all-natural and non-petroleum".
Never mind that paraffin wax comes from paraffinic crude oils and mineral
oil comes from napthenic crude oils, the yellow dye and the oil of
wintergreen should convince anybody that it is all-natural and
non-petroleum. Given the wax and oil, I simply refer to this type of lube
as a remanufactured vaseline. With the yellow dye the rubes will swear
it is beeswax.

One thing about con artists is that they are never content to leave a
con artest for any length of time. In 1990, Bottomly comes out with a
new version called 1000 Shot Plus lube. High-technology now made
possible a lube that eliminated fouling, eliminated the need to clean and
would totally stop bore corrosion. Bottomly searched the world for this
modern technology and found it in Germany after years of searching. This
advance in this lube was made possible by this
secret micronizing agent. It gave the lube a micron particle size that
made all of this advancement possible. At that point his chest thumping
ego trip gave away the formula. This secret micronizing agent is no real
secret and has been around for over 100 years. It is nothing more than a
fossil wax mined in Germany. The same time of wax used to be mined in
Utah as Utah Wax but the mine closed for lack of business.
Paraffin wax is a hard brittle wax that forms huge crystals. When you
look at a block of paraffin wax sold for food canning you see lines on
the surface of the blocks of wax. Those are the lines denoting crystal
size. It had been found that if you added this fossil wax to paraffin
wax it would reduce the size of these crystals, though nowhere near a
micron in size. Paraffin wax was limited in which skin care and salve
formulations it could be used in because of the macro-crystallinty of it.
This made it unsuited to preparations where hardness and brittleness
were objectionable. By using the fossiol wax addition the paraffin wax
could replace more expensive waxes in these products. But when you lay
this type of Techno-Nonsense on a bunch of ignorant rube BP shooters they
will beat a path to your door, wallet in hand.

Now, to get back to an historic feat of 3 shots without swabbing the
bore. The problem with this type of lube is that as long as the surface
temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the wax, about 40
to 45 C, the fouling deposited by the combustion of the powder will slide
off the metal when pressure is applied to it. When the surface
temperature of the bore is below the melting point of the wax it will act
as an adhesive and hold the fouling to the surface. The unburned
charcaol in the powder fouling will adsorb most of the mineral oil
present in the lube. This turns it into an oily sludge that simply
builds up in the breech with repeated loading of the gun. After a few
rounds are fired in a flinter you have the oily sludge being blown out of
the vent which then coats the flint and frizzen. Lubricated flints
strike no sparks.
Now for the real punch line. With the addition of the micronizing agent
they doubled the amount of dye used so the new lube was more orange in
color, compared to the lemon yellow of the previous version, and they
doubled the amount of oil of wintergreen. Convince the rubes that it is
now even more natural. During the past few years there has been much
bitching about the quality of Ox-Joke's pre-lubed patches. I have seen
packs in the store where the lube had turned hard and brown. The mineral
oil migrates out of the paraffin wax into the low density polyethlene
used in the bags. This makes the lube hard and brittle. It goes back to
paraffin wax properties. With these an historic feat is getting the
second ball down the barrel without wiping. Ox-Joke supplies T/C with
Bore Butter which is only a slight modification
of Ox-Joke's standard formula.

Remember the dbate about blowing down the barrel on the message boards.
My off line joke was that as long as you use the repackaged Chap-Stick as
a patch lube you would not get chapped lips from blowing down a cold
barrel.

Then their was Uncle Mike's Apple Green patch lube. Another paraffin
wax/mineral oil lube with methylsalicin in it. Nothing more than a
repackaged arthritis salve. I can tell you that is was very effective on
a knee suffereing degenerative joint disease. So if you are going to go
out in those North Woods in winter weather to hunt the elusive whitetail
you ought to take all three lubes along. Prevent chapped lips, take care
of chest colds and arthritic joints from all of the hoofing through the
snow. No reason for you to return home in anything less than the best of
health in spite ot the weather. Might be a good idea to take along one of
the ascorbic acid-based powders since that is vitamin C. Then Goex's
sugar-based powder might make an emergency trail food.

I joke with Dixon that it is bad enough we have to deal with the ATF,
what next with these products, the Food and Drug Administration too???
Well, time to go sit out on the deck for a smoke and listen to the snow
flakes fall.
 
Back when I was heavily involved in load development for my paper patched bullets I tried Bore Butter and Hornady great plains lube. I would make my own over sized wool wads and add just enough lube to keep the wads to from coming out on fire. The Bore Butter wads shot better with my loads in my 50. In my 45 it liked the Great Plains lube a little better. I have never had any trouble with either one.
 
Barrels are not cast iron and cannot be seasoned, that was the best advertisising ploy ever!
Several years ago my kit Sharon Hawken rifle lost one of its ramrod thimbles. I had been using the Young Country 101 lube as instructed. I took my rifle into our company repair shop to re-solder the part to the rib and once I started heating up the cleaned metal, it began to sweat oil. It sweated enough that the flux and solder would not stick. I had to continue to heat those parts of the rib and thimble until they no longer had oil oozing out from them. Part of the reason I used Lube 101 in the barrel was because it loaded easier and smoother. Then, as time goes on, we get the "dry lube/no seasoning" concept. My loading was far more difficult and I did not see much improvement in my shots. Either way, I will never forget the light of the oil oozing out under the torch when I made my first solder attempt.
 
Barrels are not cast iron and cannot be seasoned, that was the best advertisising ploy ever!

You have to season carbon steel pans the same as cast, why wouldn't it be the same for a carbon steel barrel ?

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/french-style-11-carbon-steel-fry-pan/407FSFP12.html
This pan features a signature all-purpose design that makes it ideal for pan frying, sauteing, and searing. Used with a variety of heat sources, this carbon steel pan is perfect whether in a restaurant setting or over a campfire at a family event. It is designed to work with all job types, giving you the versatility you need for back-of-the-house and demo cooking applications. When seasoned properly, it will have a non-stick surface with a prolonged life, making it ideal for cooking eggs, fish, and even desserts.
 
Carbon steel is composed of roughly 99 percent iron to 1 percent carbon, while cast iron normally contains 2 to 3 percent carbon to 97 to 98 percent iron. ... Carbon-steel cookware is often compared with cast iron. While the two materials are very similar, carbon steel actually contains less carbon and more iron.
 
Back
Top