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Calibre questions

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Love my .50 cal T/C Hawken, picked up a .45 cal version, and love it even more. Less powder/ lead consumption, less recoil, still plenty effective knocking down sillhoettes.

I don't hunt, so was thinking of getting something even smaller, was looking at a Traditions Crockett, then got to thinking 🤔

.310" RB would be about the size of a frozen pea. My 5/16" range rod might not even fit down the bore with a patch on it. Would it reliably knock over a Ram at 100yds?

I'm sure that all this can be accommodated, but my question for more experienced BP shooters is at what point does one start to see diminishing returns? .32 cal? .36 cal? .40 cal?
 
A .310 will not have much energy at 100 yards you may do ok with a 32 cal maxi but it would require some testing .I think you would do better with a 40 cal at 100 yds but the smaller calibers would be ok if you move your silhouettes closer
 
It's not ALL about the sillhoettes, I shoot monthly local NMLRA club matches. Mostly looking for accuracy, economical practice, pleasant shooting character, and low maintenance. Since starting BP, I've been shooting 2-3 days/week, 40-60 shots/ trip to the range. I haven't been shooting 3-4 months yet but figured that pace would work out to 7-8 thousand shots per year. I understand that everything is a trade off, and I'm not a power junkie, even though of setting up a. 22 rimfire for a practice gun.
 
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I'd get the 40~! Only from reading here I have observed where some say that the 36s and smaller need a ton of cleaning whilst shooting. The past 2 weekends I've shot my 40-cal about 2 dozen shots or more on each woodswalk, using Hoppe's BP Patch Lube/Cleaner, and I never swabbed it once all day and cleanup was a breeze!

I will say, I did have to have some 'witnesses' spot the gong/target hits out @ the 60-yard to 100-yard shots, as that little ball barely made some of the heavier ones move. I was only using 55-grn charges, as that's where one of the nodes is.
 
I now have .32 and .40, love the .32 for practice out to 50yds, it's a Lazer at that range, but doesn't have much momentum beyond that. The .40 is good to 100, still need to do some load workup, but looks promising. Also, have a .36 Senica coming, what size mold should I get for the .36 Cal. .
350" or .375" have seen both mentioned, but seems to me like .375" would actually be for .38 Cal. or revolvers without a patch.
 
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@JDBraddy, for a T/C Seneca rifle, the 0.350 ball is a good starting choice. For economical shooting the 000 buckshot at about 0.360 is also a good choice. Of course, one could measure the bore diameter and get a ball that is 0.010" less than the land-to-land diameter.
 
Not a more experienced bp shooter , but can say my oregon barrel .36 is good for 40 rounds with out cleaning or swabeing between shots. Thats about were I run out of gas. 40-60 dawn water, or Frontier's bear grease, Frontier's a little better accuracy.
 
A .310 will not have much energy at 100 yards you may do ok with a 32 cal maxi but it would require some testing .I think you would do better with a 40 cal at 100 yds but the smaller calibers would be ok if you move your silhouettes closer
I'm going with this opinion. If just target shooting it's hard to beat a .40. it's like a laser once you've developed the proper patch and powder combo. And a .395 RB ain't that much bigger than .310. does well also with lighter powder charges.
 
I'm going with this opinion. If just target shooting it's hard to beat a .40. it's like a laser once you've developed the proper patch and powder combo. And a .395 RB ain't that much bigger than .310. does well also with lighter powder charges.
I'm leaning this way, still need to do a proper load development, bought both .390" and .395" molds, this week I just sighted it in using .390" balls, .016" drill cloth pre-lubed with 1:7 ballistol / water, and 30gr. FFFg.
 
I think your best off investing your time in the 40, depends on what matches your club runs if there’s a lot of 50-100 yard matches I think the 40 would likely buck the wind a bit better. Good balance my wife has a .36 bobcat that seems to really open up past 50 compared to larger calibers but that might just be my perspective.
 
I have shot most everything from .32 to .54. If I had to pick just one it would be the .40, I have won more matches with a .40 than any other I have owned. A close second would be the .38 that I had. Kind of wish I hadn't sold that one it had possibilities.
 
Had an extended chat with one of the top shooters this afternoon, he pointed out that nothing in the rules says you can't use more than one gun, and only about 15% of targets are past 50yds. He suggested shooting whatever gun I shoot best with out to 50yds, and keeping eather the .45 or .50 cal carefully zeroed in @ 100yds.

Then switch over and use it exclusively for the 75 - 100yd. targets. That way I don't have to worry about adjusting the charge, adjusting the sights, how much to hold over, or any of that during the actual match, just switch guns for the longer shots.
 
Had an extended chat with one of the top shooters this afternoon, he pointed out that nothing in the rules says you can't use more than one gun, and only about 15% of targets are past 50yds. He suggested shooting whatever gun I shoot best with out to 50yds, and keeping eather the .45 or .50 cal carefully zeroed in @ 100yds.

Then switch over and use it exclusively for the 75 - 100yd. targets. That way I don't have to worry about adjusting the charge, adjusting the sights, how much to hold over, or any of that during the actual match, just switch guns for the longer shots.
solid idea!

I’ve really grown attached to 54 and have been using it for all matches myself. maybe a good excuse to get a new gun for myself though!
 
solid idea!

I’ve really grown attached to 54 and have been using it for all matches myself. maybe a good excuse to get a new gun for myself though!
I believe practice is the biggest determining factor to improve shooting.

The most expensive component is lead....
32 caliber: (.310) 048g---approx 146 balls/pound
36 caliber: (.360) 071g----approx 98 balls/pound
40 caliber: (.395) 092g----approx 76 balls/pound
45 caliber: (.445) 133g----approx 52 balls/pound
50 caliber: (.498) 180g----approx 38 balls/pound
54 caliber: (.535) 220g----approx 32 balls/pound

Next is powder.... don't know what charge you use but for my guns.

.50 cal = 70gr/shot
.45 cal = 50gr/shot
.40 cal = 30gr/shot
.32 cal = 20gr/shot

Next is caps....this is a wash and doesn't vary by caliber. Of course you could use a flintlock.

So for what it would cost to fire 30 rounds in practice with a .54 cal.
One could fire 70+ rounds in practice with a .40 cal. Or 120+ rounds in practice with a .32cal.
 
I have every caliber from 32-10 gauge. Currently If its a 25 yard paper match I will use my 32 cal. Its literally dead on at 25 yards.
If its a 50-100 yard match 40 or 45 caliber depending on how I feel that day. Both are zero'd flush at 50 yards. I am having another custom 40 cal flinter made for strictly target punching. If it turns out like I plan it will be the go to for everything. 95% of the serious target shooters around me all run 40 calibers. Of course depending upon who you ask you will get a wide range of responses. Some guys swear by the bigger bores and do well with them too. To me I was a die hard 45 cal lover but 40 is where its at.
 
I am in no sense of the word, wealthy. I'm retired, no income other than a pension and SS. But never, ever have I considered a muzzle loader caliber having any bearing on expense. It cost what it cost. My two rifles are .50 and .54. I mean to say I love the sport and the price of components is nothing compared to shooting less or the difference in cost of powder and lead. Once you have all the other possible for your rifles, that expense is over and done. When I run low on balls, powder, and patching, I simply buy what I need. To put it another way, we are all into the black powder game or we are not. I will do without some other frivolity, but I will keep shooting as long as components are available.
 
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