Can't separate flintlock **** and tumbler

[DaveBeal]

I have a new Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock pistol. The trigger pull is very heavy (usually off the scale of my Lyman electronic gauge). I decided I would start with stoning the sear nose and tumbler notch. I followed Bob McBride's instructions on how to disassemble the lock (), but I can't separate the **** from the tumbler. I've put the lock across an open vise, as Bob showed, and whacked the tumbler square shank using both a brass and steel punch. I put Kroil on it and let it sit overnight and then hit it hard enough to bend the lock plate slightly, but the shank doesn't budge. I've considered heating the **** with a butane torch, but I'm concerned that that will damage the case coloring. I suppose some kind of a press is the right tool for the job, but I don't have one. Any suggestions?

 

[rafterob]

You can apply enough heat to loosen it up without affecting the temper or color. Just keep moving the torch around the ****, if you start to see red you have heated too much. You just need to heat it enough so it expands slightly. Have your punch and hammer at the ready.

 

[deerstalkert]

i have used the wifes hair dryer to heat fragile colored parts.
assuming you have all the other internals removed you can use a large socket to bridge around the tumbler. gives better support than across the open jaws of the vise.
if you can, find a screw that fits the axle threads and can be sacrificed . start with it just loose and drive it until it is tight against the ****. loosen and repeat until it is free.
don't ask why i suggest the screw that can be sacrificed.

 

[Sam squanch]

Don’t use the vise method!!! Take a piece of hard maple or oak or whatever, drill a hole just a little bigger than the tumbler. Then whack on it with a brass punch. I’ve seen lock plates bent and warped with the vise as a support.

 

[Polecat_Tom]

assuming you have all the other internals removed you can use a large socket to bridge around the tumbler.

In the past I used parallel bars. On the last two locks I used a socket and a larger hammer. I think the socket as a backer works much better. Once I got the **** off I cleaned the cutout with some small files and now they come off much easier.

 

[Rob M.]

D@mn ....ive never had one that a brass rod and a hammer would not separate the two parts ....best of luck

 

[Eric Krewson]

I made one of these, I had to mark what it was because I would throw it away if the hole wasn't up thinking it was one of dozens of pieces of scrap wood that accumulate on my work bench.

 

[2 shots]

might want to relabel that eric.

 

[Sam squanch]

Just think- some one will find that years from now…..and WONDER!

 

[2 shots]

Just think- some one will find that years from now…..and WONDER!

i can just see them trying to figure out how to use it

 

[54ball]

Instead of torch heat,
Boil the lock.
No joke, this works.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

might want to relabel that eric.

"Lorena"

 

[Davey Boy]

And try iodine 10% usp

let it sit overnight

 

[geb324]

You can use a Socket if you have a wrench set that is what I use

 

[rich pierce]

I think it’s shameful that lock makers use a strong press to fit **** to tumbler and do zero actual fitting.

 

[hockeyref]

i can just see them trying to figure out how to use it

You really wanna get ‘em going, keep the label and drill the hole the whole way thru.

 

[DaveBeal]

My thanks to everyone who responded. As suggested, heating the **** with a butane torch got the pieces separated without harming the case color. The suggestion to use a large socket around the tumbler to support the lock also helped a lot. I tried stoning the sear nose and tumbler notch, but this was not very effective because the edge of my stone was not sharp enough to get into the notch. I think the sear spring was the real problem. I filed it a bit and squeezed it with pliers to lighten it. The trigger went from 12+ pounds to about 7. That good enough for me.

 

[James Kibler]

No need to heat. This will likely lead to problems. Vise / punch method works fine with good technique. Really quite simple. I believe I show this in videos.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I've used the boiling method for lots of stuck parts before, like stuck butterfly valves on a carburetor. Some times it has to go a few hours, but it works. No worries with the temper either. And then a dose of penetrating oil, followed by a big hammer.