Cleaning: boiling water vs. solvents

[tg]

" Obviously it would only work with a removable vent liner. I saved it because it looked like a good idea."

If I recall Washington requested 5000 of these before the seige of Trenton but due to his poor performance before that battle congress denied him the luxury of these cleaning devices, they were made by the French and had been shipped over as a token effort of support to the Rebelion as the French and Franklin parlayed for more support from the French. :shocked2:

 

[tg]

After the victory at Trenton Washinton was granted the request for these, along with several hundred Co2 dischargers, and a wagon load of kegs full of Buffaloe Ballets, this is by some considered a turning point in the War of independance, and that's the truth :shake:

 

[brubincam]

-----don't forget screw drivers to remove them when needed-----

 

[boondocker]

At the range moose milk then alcohol and in the garage soap and water, then flush good with small hose hooked to the sink. I blow it out with compressed air then alcohol and then season with Marvel. Soak the lock then same. How did you make out on the hunt Fox, sorry late reply. Boon :thumbsup:

 

[looselystrung]

I have a hook breech t/c.50 hawken and was taught to use cold water.Soak inside barrel a bit then run a patch up and down kind of like a plunger.Keep using clean water till it and patch run clear.Then use very hot water rinse...allegedly the purpose is to heat up the barrel (and it does!use rag to hold it) so it will dry fast. I then lube it inside and out.It was also suggested I leave it overnite standing on it's muzzle so any residual oil will run out of it. :2

 

[Birddog6]

I think it was somebody on here that posted a link to a how-to to make one with a zerk fitting and some tubing. Obviously it would only work with a removable vent liner.

They make them with a fitting from Cain's Outdoors and also the clamp-on type for the non-removable vent Dunlaps Woodcrafts.

I use the clamp-on type every time I clean one as all but 2 of my flintlocks I have non-removable vent liners. I do modify the attachment & remove the O'ring & drill out the center of a 3/8" flat faucet washer. Makes the clamp seal 100% where the O'ring doesn't always do it. You have to file back the brass a tad on the washer installation so it will let the screw adjust fully & fit all your barrels. These attachments are not expensive & do a good cleaning job. All depends on whether you want to accept a new way of cleaning one. Takes about 15 min to entirely clean the rifle & No Water in the barrel channel, when cleaned like shown....... :thumbsup: You take the lock off, clamp on the attachment, wet a patch & put on a jag attached to a range rod, & put it in the barrel & hydraulically flush the barrel pumping the rod in & out.

 

[Fishhog]

Keith,inquisitive,what kind of solution do you use in your pics,doesn't look like soap/water..Also did you have to modify the clamp any to keep from hitting the stock on the non vent side.Ray

 

[Birddog6]

That is 2 oz of non-aerosol Ballistol in a gallon of water. Liquid dishpan soap (Dawn or Joy) will work too, I just have cases of Ballistol & use it. Helps cut the patch grease if you use patch grease.

No, the clamp is up off center of the flat on the opposite side of the hose part, so it goes down to the top edge of the wood, but not over the wood. It has worked on everything I have tried it on, even use it on halfstocks & don't have to take them apart if I don't want to. You could even grind/file a little brass off the opposite side if need be.

Here is a few photos of a new clamp on my deer rifle, since I have it out. Notice on the washer side of the seal I I relieved the clamp a lil there to let the washer go back all the way so it will fit most barrels. I have successfully used it on A,B,C,D, & Jaeger barrels.

 

[shdwlkr]

Well for the better part of 40 years now I have used boiling water and dish soap to clean my muzzle loaders and don't have a rust issue yet. Must be doing something wrong.
I run solvent down the bore when done and lightly coat the outside of the firearm.

 

[Fishhog]

Keith.thanks for the close up pics,they clear things up a bunch and also the formula you have been using..Ray

 

[c.jacob.cottam]

I have used all kinds of methods for cleaning BP rifles. One shop where I live says to use 409 degreaser and swears by it. Also tried to use Simple Green and had the same out come. Found another recipe of 1 part Hydrogen peroxide, 1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part Murphy's oil Soap. Called it "The Juice" All 3 of these methods work well for quick cleans. But when you really want a deep clean stick the basics, hot water and soap.

 

[William O.]

Just got back into black powder and have noticed a lot of new cleaning solvents and solutions available. I always used to remove my barrel and put it into a bucket of boiling water and clean in the traditional manner. Also I just bought a real nice Kentucky rifle in .36 caliber that removing the stock on to clean every time is not practicle. What products/ways are best?

I use a few drops of store bought bore cleaner/solvent on a clean patch to soften the crud every 5-10 shots while I'm at the range, and the same combination to start the cleaning process afterwards. It appears to be nothing more than soap and water, but the plastic bottle makes it easy to use and I can always mix up some more if needed. I find that a little paste type bore cleaner and a few patches leaves everything clean and bright, followed by a lightly oiled patch. Never felt the need to remove the barrel and flush with water, this seems to work just fine for me.

 

[looselystrung]

Thought I would add this in here...Shot my T/c .50 hawken at the range last Sat and was using a mix of Ballistol,T/C Black powder cleaner/water to wet down my cleaning patch every other shot.
Broke it down when I got home and filled barrel with water and T/c cleaner and let is soak.Pumped a couple of patches till they looked clean..THEN the weird thing :shocked2: . I ran a patch with just Ballistol on it to lube the barrel and it came out black!! In fact the next 2 or 3 patches came out dirty.I have read some great stuff @ how well Ballistol works on cleaning but is it really THAT good? or are the other products that bad.. Anyone else ever experience something similar? dan

 

[Mulebrain]

Others may disagree, but regular room temp water will get the job done! The water breaks up residue really well. Cleaners, soaps, and solutions are really not needed.

I really like that clamp for flintlock cleaning! I may invest in one of those!

 

[FishDFly]

"Others may disagree, but regular room temp water will get the job done! The water breaks up residue really well. Cleaners, soaps, and solutions are really not needed."

I am not going to enter into the hot versus tepid water discussion, but I was wondering if there is enough variation in barrel steel between different manufacturers, i.e., T/C versus Lyman, which might contribute to flash rust?

Years ago, there was some problems with inland marine barges and the cause was traced down to the steel. The problem barge's steel had come from Europe and the steel had a higher nickle content than the U.S. steel.

Guess I am wondering, is flash rust caused by a difference in metallurgy of the steel or the temperature of the cleaning medium?

Thanks

RDE

 

[nw_hunter]

Warm to hot water and soap works for me!
We don't have flash rust here in southern Oregon.Everything around here is "S L O W" :grin:

I never saw a problem with flash rust, even using very hot water."Boiling water"? I would worry about flash burns :surrender:

 

[Tsegoweleh]

Osayo all,
I used to use the boiling water and soap method as well.
Now i just use cold water and no soap. I use a light oil or bore oil after and seems to do just fine. Plus i dont get that "flash" rust any more.

 

[jbtusa]

I concur with just cold water. I have converted to using liberal amounts of "moose-milk", a water/cutting oil mix, and then finishing with oil swabs. I don't get that "day after" flash rust anymore either.

 

[CarolinaTKE]

I really like that flushing system. Question: how does one remove the lock on a flintlock? I don't expect it to be as simple as field-stripping my M1911... I just purchased my first musket and I would like to be able to clean the entire weapon--I don't have a hooked breach, so I can't remove the barrel.

 

[laney1566]

I mix moose milk with water for cleaning and apply a heavy dose of bore butter after it's dry. I also rub bore butter lightly onto all the steel parts for storage. The small amount that's left on my hands gets rubbed into the wood. I then place it into large suede scabbard. No problems.