cleaning procedures for pedersoli frontier

[Rod]

I have been flushing the barrel useing a thru nipple flush kit, hot soapy water first then rinsing with hot clean water.. I do both 2 or 3 times then run a dry patch down the barrel. I then run a couple of patches with bore butter.Finaly I instal the nipple and spray a small amount of rem oil thru it. What do you guys think is this good enough. The reson why I ask is I pulled the gun out after it has been put up for a month and ran a bore butter patch down the barrel. The patch came back stained reddish brown. looked like rust to me.

 

[montanadan]

Vand1-you are cleaning correctly,probably not getting all moisture out of the barrel prior to lubing. I noticed that you live in Georgia,alot more humidity there, than Wyoming.My final rinse on all my rifles is done with starting fluid(with top-end lube),the ether really displaces any moisture,the top-end lube prevents flash rusting. By the way,do not smoke while using starting fluid.When the barrel is dry,run a lubed(Rem-oil) patch,followed by another lubed patch down the barrel a few days later.I own a Pedersoli frontier and Penn. rifle.Hope this helps..Respectfully montanadan

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I too once bought into the "seasoned bore" manure and I too got rust. There is nothing wrong with your cleaning procedure except that "BoreButter" is not much of a rust inhibitor. I never had rust before switching to BoreButter and never since discarding it. Finish up by swabbing the bore with the same oil you run down the nipple and you'll have no more rust.

 

Throw away the through-the-nipple cleaner - in my experience you can't get enough water through. I usually pull the barrel and stick it in a bucket of water to pump through. Use cold rather than hot water - cleans just as well but less likely to start rusting. Add some detergent if you really want, but it's not necessary. Dry thoroughly. Bore butter ain't much good as a rust inhibitor - there has been a thread on rust protection by various lubes you might like to search on.

 

I've been doing some experimenting. I use either TC's #13 or Tracks best bore cleaners with very good success. With two of my rifles I've been using TC's Bore Butter with reasonable success. As an experiment I've been using Automtic Transmission Fluid on another rifle and have found it to be outstanding!

 

[Rod]

Thanks for the input.I hear people talking about not useing petrolium based products. What is the reason behind that?

 

The theory behind not using petroleum based lubricants as opposed to non petroleum lubricants deals with the seasoning of the barrel. Much like the seasoning of a cast iron fry pan. Once you wash it with a detergent, you have to season it all over again.

 

[***Sean***]

I like the seasoned way. Dad always told me not to use soap on a cast iron skillet. I pump hot water in and out of the barrel with a jag...No soap. Run several patchs of # 13 down the bore the several dry patches the a good coat of bore butter. Pretty warm here today the gun is out side now soaking up some rays with a good coat of bore butter in the barrel. Im heading to the range friday afternoon if the wind lets up. Just looked 10 to 20...Ill go anyways :grin:

 

[Zonie]

"Thanks for the input.I hear people talking about not useing petrolium based products. What is the reason behind that?"
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The main reason folks don't like petrolium products in the bore is because the fouling from black powder (and some substitutes) combines with the petrolium based oils and forms a very hard, and hard to remove compound. The animal and vegetable oils do not do this.

IMO, the reason vegetable oil is preferred over animal oils is it doesn't get rancid as fast.

Of the vegetable oils that don't get rancid, Olive oil is used in the commercial lubes but IMO, it isn't very good at rust prevention.
Caster oil, as used in Stumpkillers Moose Milk seems to be the best natural oil for rust prevention.

A few commercial products that don't seem to produce the hard fouling but are good for rust prevention are Birchwood Casey Sheath or similar products that evaporate, leaving a very thin protective coating.

I shouldn't open the can of worms, but in my opinion, modern steels like those used for modern muzzleloading rifles cannot be "seasoned" like a cast iron frying pan. It does not have the open grain boundries that cast or wrought iron has for the oil to penetrate.
For that reason, I feel using soap when cleaning your gun is a goodness because it removes the lubrication left in the bore that has been contaminated with the black powder fouling.

 

[ss1]

I agree with montanadan, except after hot water, 2 patches, I use alchol instead of starting fluid. 2 or more dry patches, then sptay good gun oil down barrel. couple more patches take care of excessive oil. Before shooting run couple dry patches, followed by borebutter patch, snap cap then load. Most of time I use thur-nipple- cleaner. rifle is to hard to take down and put back. Have same rifle.

 

[Rod]

I started to take the rifle apart one time and figured out it was not a good idea. I went back to the thru nipple way.

 

[Pittsburghunter]

VandI get it good and dry and the T/C lube will work ok but there is better stuff out there. If there was no internet and you kept doing what you are doing finding stuff a little bit better as you go your rifle would be shootable a hundred years from now.

I will conceed you have been given some better advice than what you have been doing but your rifle is ok and I expect will serve you for a lifetime. Nothing I have read will harm your gun in anyway and some of what I have read will help it.

 

[davy]

Well ... whatever method you use to clean or flush it out with ... that rifle has a powder chamber that is smaller than the bore of the gun.

So make sure you get something down in there to flush out that moisture and replace with a lubricant of your choice ... otherwise rust will set in.

I use a smaller bore brush to clean it out, and small jag and patch to lube it with. :thumbsup:

Davy

 

[wwfeatherston]

I take barrel off, remove the nipple and drum screw , drop them in the bucket to soak in the boiling water while I pump the water through the barrel with rod & patch. Then I pour a bit of clean water through.

Straight after that, a patch with WD-40 or suchlike to dispel the moisture, then I run a patch with CLP.

Mineral oil causes fouling, but I always dry-clean the bore just before firing, so that isn't an issue.

It's not much harder than cleaning a rifle after using old mercury-primed ammo!

 

[Brokenlaig]

I take barrel off, remove the nipple and drum screw , drop them in the bucket to soak in the boiling water while I pump the water through the barrel with rod & patch. Then I pour a bit of clean water through.

Straight after that, a patch with WD-40 or suchlike to dispel the moisture, then I run a patch with CLP.

Mineral oil causes fouling, but I always dry-clean the bore just before firing, so that isn't an issue.

It's not much harder than cleaning a rifle after using old mercury-primed ammo!

Very nearly the precise method I use! However, once my water is Boiling hot (I need to hold the barrel with a rag!) and I'm done pumping, I stand it muzzle down in a corner and allow it to dry. If your water's hot enough, the barrel steel should be hot enough to evaporate the little water remaining. The breech end should be the hottest and should dry completely, but there may be a drop or two at the muzzle. A dry patch and some CLP (although I really need to make some of stumpy's moose milk/snot) has kept my bores shiny bright.

 

[brubincam]

get a hose small enough to slide into barrel about half as big as barrel hole,put toothpick in flash hole,have a threaded end on hose to fasten to a spigot,install into barrel hold gun over sink muzzle down ,turn on hot water to flush out barrel let water run untill barrel is hot,when finished with water run dry patches down barrel until dry then oil barrel,gets everything out of barrel even flash hole with no mess takes only a couple of minutes,,,, :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[***Sean***]

I bought into it to. That is what TC recommended. I been shooting it once a week for 5 weeks now. When I run a patch a few days after cleaning it looked rusty to. Ran a few dry patches down and then some bore butter. Keeps happening so I am going back to plan old gun oil after a good cleaning.

 

[Rod]

I cleaned my gun 2 days ago the same way as in my first post except I finised it off by spraying REM OIL down the barrel. I then ran a patch up and down a number of times to spread the oil on the inside of the barrel. I am going to check in a day or two to see if there is any rust. I will let you guys know. Thanks again for all of the responces.

 

[davy]

After I get it all cleaned up ... I use RIG gun grease to swab the barrel with after I displace the moisture with Rem oil or WD40 ... it is much denser, and does not evaporate like a liteweight gun oil does! :hatsoff:

Davy

 

[Rod]

Checked the gun today and found no rust stain on the patch. Maybe this is the way to go. I will check it again in a week.