Crockett: When I built my Reading County rifle, I made it a convertable style. This is the Precussion lock for that rifle, and like you, I like color case colors.
This is what the lock looks like in normal light
A little different angle gets some of the glare off of the picture.
If you use this method, the inside of the lockplate gets colored too. If you don't like that, you can remove the color by buffing, or using a fine abrasive like Wrights Silver Polish.
As you know, when steel is heated, it turns different colors, depending on how hot it gets.
The colors are Yellow (430), Straw (470), Brown (500), Purple (540) and Blue (570 degrees F).
To do this coloring, the lock plate has to be stripped of all of the pieces and polished.
A method used has to apply the heat to a very small area.
I used a propane torch which is made for small jobs like jewelry and hobbies. It is held in the hand like a pencil and has a hose and connector to screw onto the propane bottle. The flame is adjusted by a knurled ring which is located right where your fingers are.
Using a bright light so I could see the colors developing, I applied the heat to the outer surface in stripes from the top of the lock to the bottom. When the steel started to turn blue, I would quench the lockplate in water to keep the hot zone from spreading. I then moved on to the next zone and repeated the proceedure.
When finished, I coated the locks surfaces with Sheath gun oil for protection.
Although the coating isn't very durable, I did this about 5 years ago and it still looks good to me.
You might notice the bridle is also colored to match the interior of the lockplate.
The mainspring, sear spring, and tumbler are not treated, and I suggest that you don't use this method on them. It will soften them and effect their durability.
Hope this gives you some ideas.