Colt 1851 Wedge Issue.

[RMFnLA]

I just bought this 2nd Gen 1851 Colt here on MLF. It is missing the wedge screw, which I didn’t think much about until I broke the gun down to clean and inspect, and the barrel absolutely will not come off until the wedge is removed completely.

The gun has been fired, and no doubt a previous owned got tired of removing the screw to get the wedge out, so he took it out, stashed it somewhere, and of course lost it.

My question is about the wedge. My understanding is it should not need to come completely out of the barrel for break-down, and in fact the screw is intended to keep it from coming out so it doesn’t get lost. But this one needs to come completely out.

Has anyone encountered this? What’s the right fix? My first thought is to file down the small end so it doesn’t protrude as far and will allow the barrel to come off, but if there’s a better way I’d love to hear it.

The wedge # matches the rest of the gun so it’s not a replacement.

Thanks in advance!

 

[wiscoaster]

Maybe the wedge itself is or got malformed so it's too long and won't clear the slot when it's pulled out all the way to where the screw normally retains it? Not sure how you'd determine that unless you've got handy another 1851 Colt you can compare.

 

[RMFnLA]

Maybe the wedge itself is or got malformed so it's too long and won't clear the slot when it's pulled out all the way to where the screw normally retains it? Not sure how you'd determine that unless you've got handy another 1851 Colt you can compare.

I don’t have another but it looks undamaged.
It’s definitely too long and won’t clear the slot.
Made me a bit crazy at first, I thought the barrel was just stuck until I actually removed the wedge and then it just slid off easily, so at least it’s not a major issue.

 

[wiscoaster]

If you don't want to alter the original wedge, you could just buy a replacement and if that one "works out of the box" you're good to go, or if not, you can file that one back.

 

[Phil Coffins]

The end of the wedge and the hook on the spring should be close to each other. The length doesn’t matter since the hook catches the screw, the tip of the wedge needs to be clear of the arbor and that is the distance between the screw and the bore that the arbor fits into.

 

[RMFnLA]

The end of the wedge and the hook on the spring should be close to each other. The length doesn’t matter since the hook catches the screw, the tip of the wedge needs to be clear of the arbor and that is the distance between the screw and the bore that the arbor fits into.

They are pretty close but I guess not close enough since the tip isn’t clearing the arbor.

I guess a bit of filing and cold blue are in order; just wanted to be sure there wasn’t anything I should be aware of.

 

[M. De Land]

They are pretty close but I guess not close enough since the tip isn’t clearing the arbor.

I guess a bit of filing and cold blue are in order; just wanted to be sure there wasn’t anything I should be aware of.

View attachment 311422View attachment 311423

I had some wedges that would let go of the arbor by turning the back end slightly to the rear while still in the barrel slot.
Another idea is to file down the inside edge of the spring hook a bit so it has more clearance against the keep screw.

 

[RMFnLA]

I had some wedges that would let go of the arbor by turning the back end slightly to the rear while still in the barrel slot.
Another idea is to file down the inside edge of the spring hook a bit so it has more clearance against the keep screw.

I think this one protrudes a bit too much for either solution.

There’s a good 1/8” of metal sticking into there!

 

[Eutycus]

I've been known to lose a screw or two out of a revolver. But I've always found one in my "junk jar" of assorted screws. A little filing + bluing and you're good to go. I'm a little off topic but aren't screws in Italian revolvers metric?

 

[M. De Land]

I think this one protrudes a bit too much for either solution.

There’s a good 1/8” of metal sticking into there!

View attachment 311429

The spring hook isn't even making it out to the keep screw in the picture, it's catching on the inside of the barrel mortise. The hook height or back of the spring or the trough in the wedge needs more clearance so the spring can be depressed enough to clear the inside edge of the barrel slot. A bit if filing in one of these areas for spring depression clearance should allow the wedge to retract enough for barrel removal.
A properly fit wedge only needs a bump from a screw driver handle to install or remove. Beating on it any more than necessary to get it apart will mess something up !

 

[wiscoaster]

The spring hook isn't even making it out to the keep screw in the picture, it's catching on the inside of the barrel mortise.....

Nice catch!! Wow, I had to look extra close at that pic with my best glasses to see that. That's exactly what's happening!!

 

[Tyler L]

I've been known to lose a screw or two out of a revolver. But I've always found one in my "junk jar" of assorted screws. A little filing + bluing and you're good to go. I'm a little off topic but aren't screws in Italian revolvers metric?

All I know is the wedge screw on a Uberti is #8-32 and the nipples are #12-28

 

[45D]

For what it's worth, the wedge in the picture should enter from the other side. Don't know why you're showing it from the righthand side.
When the lip of the spring is caught by the screw head, it IS all but out.

 

[RMFnLA]

For what it's worth, the wedge in the picture should enter from the other side. Don't know why you're showing it from the righthand side.
When the lip of the spring is caught by the screw head, it IS all but out.

I just realized that as I was opening this.

That’s what I get for playing with guns at work, too many distractions!

I think the real issue is the spring head is catching on the inside of the barrel frame before it has a chance to contact the screw head.

Maybe a slight chamfer on the inside of the slot to fix?

 

[M. De Land]

For what it's worth, the wedge in the picture should enter from the other side. Don't know why you're showing it from the righthand side.
When the lip of the spring is caught by the screw head, it IS all but out.

Yup, but installing it bass ackwards has probably revealed the problem clearly any way!

 

[M. De Land]

I just realized that as I was opening this.

That’s what I get for playing with guns at work, too many distractions!

I think the real issue is the spring head is catching on the inside of the barrel frame before it has a chance to contact the screw head.

Maybe a slight chamfer on the inside of the slot to fix?

No, don't do that unless the spring hook has already buggered the inside edge, adjust the spring height don't mess with the barrel slot except to clear wedge deformation !
Mess a wedge up cheap fix, mess a barrel assembly up "heap big expensive" !

 

[RMFnLA]

Yup, but installing it bass ackwards has probably revealed the problem clearly any way!

No, that was just a one-time thing when I was shooting the photo, but 45D’s comment about the spring hitting the screw head made the issue clear.

 

[RMFnLA]

No, don't do that, adjust the spring height don't mess with the barrel slot except to clear wedge deformation !
Mess a wedge up cheap fix, mess a barrel assembly up "heap big expensive" !

That makes sense… thanks!

 

[Phil Coffins]

When the barrel is in place the slot in the arbor and barrel line up so you can draw the wedge out. Don’t be too quick to start filing till you truly understand what the problem is.

 

[RMFnLA]

When the barrel is in place the slot in the arbor and barrel line up so you can draw the wedge out. Don’t be too quick to start filing till you truly understand what the problem is.

My exact reason for posting this here in the first place…